Cylinder Porting DIY

I dont see how yamaha could mistake y-1 for y-2 ? I have another blaster that i bought on that same day and it says y-1 .....
 
Lol .... If it had a big bore kit or turbo in it i would hear a big difference in noise and have much more power , I have 2 blasters bought on the same day ( brand new and stock ) and one says y-1 and the other y-2 ? There on youtube btw ..... just type in Yfsblasterman i have a few vids up there
 
im thinking of taking my jug to kens porting but what carb do i need? (with the mods i have in my sig) i have the stock carb. ken emailed me suggesting the 34mm but im hearing 34s are a pain in the ass to dial in. and also would shee carbs fit? i saw a sh*t load of shee carbs for cheap and for a pair on ebay

Shee Carbs are Blaster carbs! The left carb can be used on a blaster if you block off the cross over port but the right carb cannot! There great for internal parts the body is different and has no choke!
 
had a go at my 240 cylinder, not perfect but alot smoother than before still waiting for my vitos piston, been 3 weeks now!




few marks in the second pic but didnt want to go much deeper as i was flush with the gasket at this point
 
sweet videos, need to find a dremel and try my hand at this. this would be find to do with stock everything else right?

I did and the difference was HUGE! I raised the exhaust slightly more than 1mm and widened it just a hare almost accidentally at the bore keeping things smooth. Matched the exhaust to the gasket, cleaned up the transfers, opened up the boost port and removed a LOT of metal from that whole area. Also, I cut the piston a bit to better match. Oh, I also shaved my head down a TON, gave it a nice dome and squish band. However, it was the toomey racing pipe that made the biggest difference I think ;)
 
I dont see how yamaha could mistake y-1 for y-2 ? I have another blaster that i bought on that same day and it says y-1 .....

It most likely just identifies a newer or old casting and/or which foundry poured the cylinder. There is a similar thing like this with banshee heads.....early banshee heads say something like "GUY-1" and them were on like the first 2 yrs or so and then the casting number changed to "GUY-2". The early heads I know have approx 2cc more volume then the newer ones. I doubt there are any port changes or anything major on your "Y1" and "Y2" blaster cylinders. Basically don't sweat it.
 
im thinking of taking my jug to kens porting but what carb do i need? (with the mods i have in my sig) i have the stock carb. ken emailed me suggesting the 34mm but im hearing 34s are a pain in the ass to dial in. and also would shee carbs fit? i saw a sh*t load of shee carbs for cheap and for a pair on ebay

I have a mikuni tm35mm carb for sale if interested. Everything works and there is nothing wrong w/it. Pm me w/an offer.
 
I did and the difference was HUGE! I raised the exhaust slightly more than 1mm and widened it just a hare almost accidentally at the bore keeping things smooth. Matched the exhaust to the gasket, cleaned up the transfers, opened up the boost port and removed a LOT of metal from that whole area. Also, I cut the piston a bit to better match. Oh, I also shaved my head down a TON, gave it a nice dome and squish band. However, it was the toomey racing pipe that made the biggest difference I think ;)

I did something very similar with the 1st jug I ported, raised windows, raised exhaust, cleaned transfer ports, cleaned up piston windows & slightly enlarged, also with a Toomey exhaust. Lil engine runs very impressive, working on the 2nd jug for it now, trying to learn more & further refine what I did the 1st time.