Triple_B's Rebuild

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That is not your work. While boring the starter hole for the triple exhaust port on the right side, the carbide popped out of the hole and skipped across the sleeve ever so lightly (much much lighter than what happened to Slick's cylinder) so I put my 3 stone hone in there and ran it around for approximately 10 seconds to knock any edges down that might have been formed.

OF COURSE I would rather do the work on a cylinder that has not been bored yet but it wasn't in the cards this time....

now i never bored one but wouldnt tht space it out to much and need remiced for th piston woulddnt it be too loose???? in there?????
 
Running a hone around for a few seconds will not take out enough material change the measurable bore. Most machine shops will bore the cylinder to within .001" of the size wanted and then run a power hone (not spring loaded) in there for a minute to "finish hone" the bore. This ensures that the boring bar doesn't take out too much material for the hone to its job properly.
 
Not according to some people! Someone thinks that everyone is just telling me it looks good but they all know that the porting isn't actually good.....

i know what they mean his cylinder looks alot like mine does except i have bigger holes on the side
 
i know what they mean his cylinder looks alot like mine does except i have bigger holes on the side

If that's a stock cylinder you're talking about, you could make the hole 1" x 1" and it wouldn't matter too much, the aluminum on the outside of the stock sleeve is only about 11mm thick so a 1/4" drill bit (with a little bit of elongation afterward) is about all you can get in there to make the connecting passage. Any more and you've blown out through the outside of the cooling fin.

A bigger triple exhaust port doesn't mean that it's any more effective, actually....
 
If that's a stock cylinder you're talking about, you could make the hole 1" x 1" and it wouldn't matter too much, the aluminum on the outside of the stock sleeve is only about 11mm thick so a 1/4" drill bit (with a little bit of elongation afterward) is about all you can get in there to make the connecting passage. Any more and you've blown out through the outside of the cooling fin.

A bigger triple exhaust port doesn't mean that it's any more effective, actually....

yep found tht out the hard way on my test cylinder
 
Ordered high temp silver paint for the jug, ordered main jets, and ordered exhaust springs. Might get some painting done this weekend/during the week next week
 
Painted the cylinder today. Used some steel wool, scotch brite pads, 440 sandpaper, and Uni-Solve to get to old sh*t off. Didn't get in between the fins because I couldn't get my fingers in there but nobody will see :D . Used EXTREME TEMPERATURE Silver, first few heat cycles will cure it on there good. Looks great, came out really good. Got some overspray on the frame but I have to sand the frame again anyway. Also, the plug in the head in the pics, its an old one that I cut up at an attempted plug chop. I didn't want any paint inside the cylinder so I just stuck that in there
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Also started polishing my YFZ rims. Well, one rim actually. Scrubbed one of them clean, then used a polishing attachment for a screw gun, and some "All Metal Polish". Only ran the attachment through the rim for a few minutes, battery on the screw gun died. Can you tell which one I did?

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Also got some main jets from JonS (thanks bud), primer, and exhaust springs. All I need to get the frame done is paint and hardener. Probably going to pick some up on Monday and do the frame on Tuesday. Going to be "Oriental Blue".
 
fu**, my parent caugth me looking at this blaster porn.... should have deleted history! lol nice work bro paints lookin great 15151515
 
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