Hey guys, i just bought a 99 blaster. First it wasn't getting spark so i replaced coil, and plug. Still nothing, then later unplugged TORS and it fired up first kick. Prier to all that i took apart carb and cleaned it. Put it back together and went to start bike again but noticed gas leaking out of the carb. Next day came back in turn gas on and no leak. Bike fired up for about 10 sec then slowly died. And would do that between 10 min of letting sit and kicking it again. Any suggestions what it might be?
Start it then dies
- Thread starter jtblaster
- Start date
Try what Harley said. Set your air screw 1.5 turns out from lightly seated.
When you cleaned the carb, did you take it all apart, clean everything, then blow it out with compressed air? If not try that also.
Pull the fuel line off the carb then turn it on and see if you have a nice steady flow of fuel from the petcock.
When you cleaned the carb, did you take it all apart, clean everything, then blow it out with compressed air? If not try that also.
Pull the fuel line off the carb then turn it on and see if you have a nice steady flow of fuel from the petcock.
Ill have to try the air leak test. But when i cleaned carb i sprayed everything out with carb cleaner, took float off, etc and yes i did use air compressor to blow out after. I will say, exhaust head has small crack in it which would contribute to leak test.
Did you try a new plug?
That crack in the pipe will need fixed too.
I'm trying to sit here and think, I had a hectic day and my mind isn't working too good tonight. I'm sure someone else will post up and try to help you.
That crack in the pipe will need fixed too.
I'm trying to sit here and think, I had a hectic day and my mind isn't working too good tonight. I'm sure someone else will post up and try to help you.
Yes it has new plug, just bought it yesterday along with a new boot (on plug side of new coil) as far as the header goes, it was cracked all the way around so i had a buddy weld it back but he missed a small portion which i will have redone as well but i think it should still idle and run properly? I could be wrong, sort of guessing.
Okay i will try these suggestions out tomorrow and will PR and let you all know the results. Feel free to leave more suggestions. Thanks fellas
Believe it or not that crack in the pipe will affect everything including idle as breathing properties are somewhat changed. It needs to be repaired!
Idle adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
Idle adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
Hey guys i got it running. Needed to do a more thorough clean on carb, reeds, etc. only problem is it wont idle. I know what the idle screw is but its a different head? Almost flat head but more rectangular and a small flat head wont work. Any ideas as to what type of tool i need?
Its on the side back brake pedal side to be exact. Pretty sure there is o
blaaster^ said since i unplugged TORS it would be the one on the side. Its the only brass screw i could find on carb aside from air flow screw. Ill post pics tomorrow but a small flat head wouldn't work. It just strips it out so i stopped before it got bad.
You only unplugged the tors? So the tors brick is still on? The idle adjustment is located on top of the tors brick. Adjustable at the rear of the fuel tank. Remove the seat, look below where the tank mounts, there will be a flat head screw head about the size of a dime.
If I didnt miss something in this thread, you didn't completely eliminate the tors correct? Talk of an idle adjustment on the side of a stocker would require a tors eliminator kit or equivalent too.
If I didnt miss something in this thread, you didn't completely eliminate the tors correct? Talk of an idle adjustment on the side of a stocker would require a tors eliminator kit or equivalent too.
I feel that someone has used a bodgy screw in there, I have never seen an idle adjust screw with a depression like that.
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