Start it then dies

In my confusion I got the wrong side of the carb mixed up, forgive me.

That is the spigot pin that locates the slide if I am not mistaken.
 
is this what your assuming is the idle adjustment? Center of picture....
Yes thats what i was talking about! Cool so you say even though TORS is unplugged the brick on top of carb can still be adjusted? I only unplugged TORS because i wasn't getting any spark. Never actually deleted it completely. Is there a way to reset the TORS? Or reactivate?
 
No need to "reset/reactivate" the TORs. Best left off. You can still change the idle with the screw that is on top of the TORs system.
 
No need to "reset/reactivate" the TORs. Best left off. You can still change the idle with the screw that is on top of the TORs system.
Which way idles up and which way idles down? Same for air flow screw? Cause when it starts after 10 kicks...it revs wayyy to high like 3 3/4 throttle high so i kill it so it doesn't blow motor.
 
Which way idles up and which way idles down? Same for air flow screw? Cause when it starts after 10 kicks...it revs wayyy to high like 3 3/4 throttle high so i kill it so it doesn't blow motor.
Okay nevermind...going to need TORS delete kit because screw on the idle broke in half.....
 
Is this what i need? One in the center. $24 on ebay but average was $40 i just want to make sure this is correct
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    142.6 KB · Views: 188
There's a threaded brass insert inside which the idle adjust screw threads into, they strip easy. So if you could not turn the adjuster screw, it was junk to begin with.

When you install the tors eliminator kit, you should take the proper steps the completely eliminate the tors. Here is a good video on how to

 
There's a threaded brass insert inside which the idle adjust screw threads into, they strip easy. So if you could not turn the adjuster screw, it was junk to begin with.

When you install the tors eliminator kit, you should take the proper steps the completely eliminate the tors. Here is a good video on how to

Yes thanks, i used this video yesterday to eliminate it. I clipped the black/whit wire that connected to it anddd the cdi box on accident not realizing it was the switch wire that tied into it as well but i respliced and connected. Pretty sure i should be okay? I will test with multimeter just to make sure until the TORS delete comes in tues.
 
Alright i got the delete kit put on bike starts after 7 kicks or so..? Still has trouble idling. I tried tampering with the screw as much as possible, was kind of hard to adjust and keep giving throttle though. Is there another way to adjust, maybe the new cable? Please give me as many pointers as possible
 
Oddly, not all of the idle screws for the delete kits are the same.

Did you order the complete kit? (cable, cap, tap and screw)
The screw may be too short and you need to file the shiz out of it. Thats what i had to do (2hrs) and it still wasnt enough

I took the screw out of the extra carb i had (half inch longer btw) and it worked perfectly.

The first delete kit we did, i had a cap, so i just ordered the screw & tap kit that had 2 screws, said for a banshee. Those ones worked awesome
 
Yes i bought the complete kit And that explains why i was given 2 screws because it was meant for the banshee which is fine. So maybe i do need to shave it down more because im almost positive i didnt do it enough. Just being safe. Ill try that tomorrow and see what that does. If anymore suggestions please give them so i can do them all at once if on doesn't work. I need this running right by friday!!
 
When i got the first set of screws, i just filed it down till flat. Never had to do extra... When i ordered the single, enough was never enough
 
Then thats not the problem cause i filed it down till it was flat. Like said though i wasn't able to play with the screw much cause it was hard to throttle up and adjust the screw at the same time. Ugh ill try it tomorrow, hopefully it works. If not idk what else to do.
 
Take the carb off, unscrew the new idle one most of the way

look in the air intake side and screw in the new idle screw

If the slide does NOT move by the time the screw it all the way in, you didnt file enough
 
as for your hard starting is the pilot jet clean?
Main jet is CLEAN!! Lol i probably taken apart the carb 4 times and after each adjustment i made sure it was clean
Take the carb off, unscrew the new idle one most of the way

look in the air intake side and screw in the new idle screw

If the slide does NOT move by the time the screw it all the way in, you didnt file enough
And herpderplol i will try that. Ill post again around 4 est. time when i get off work where the bike is at. Thanks for all the help.