Probably but doesn't go into detail in that video but I'll ask him when I talk to him tomorrow. I'm getting ready to send him my basket case motor from the other quad
Hello/New Double Blaster owner
- Thread starter tibblits
- Start date
Little update.. I haven't gone thru the carb on the green party quad yet but man we went out for hours the other day and she ripped around just fine even ended up towing my buddy on his Honda 250
It was a pretty hot day in Arizona and I wasn't super nice to her but she survived 
. I guess I don't like messing with things if they're somewhat working and who knows it might not work for too long but at least we had an awesome time and it's still running good. As for the other quad, I got the torn apart engine and a bunch of miscellaneous hardware sent to Ken O'Connor so he can sort it out 
can't wait to get it back and start working on the white party quad 
It was a pretty hot day in Arizona and I wasn't super nice to her but she survived . I guess I don't like messing with things if they're somewhat working and who knows it might not work for too long but at least we had an awesome time and it's still running good. As for the other quad, I got the torn apart engine and a bunch of miscellaneous hardware sent to Ken O'Connor so he can sort it out can't wait to get it back and start working on the white party quad
So I've been riding this thing pretty hard and she's been going strong since I rebuilt the top end. However, I was just going for a ride cruised out a couple miles and was just cruising in 6th gear and the engine just shut off and the quad came to a stop. Now she won't start. What does this sound like? I'm thinking maybe tors?? I believe the tors is still connected on this one. Either that or I fried another piston but that would really suck because it hasn't been that long since the rebuild 
Attachments
Well I removed the tors according to the thread on here and she still won't start. Guess I'm gonna clean the carb and see what that does. I noticed the spark plug was dry when I pulled it after cranking it a few times. Idk what I'm doing I'm just going off of random sh*t I read on here haha.
The carb seemed ok honestly.. is there something I need to reset if the tors activated even tho the electrical is disconnected? Something mechanical that needs to be reset maybe? Thanks for the responses as usual
Just kidding. 30psi on the ol compression tester again. FML
When I was cleaning the carb I noticed the main jet which I could barely make out but I believe it said 230. Would that be considered lean considering these aftermarket pipes usually call for a 260 or 270?Dammit!
You are either jetted too lean or you have an air leak. Sorry man
Ok that might be the problem I'll have to play with the jetting next time I get the top end rebuilt again. Sucks I feel like it should last more than just a few outings. But should have the KOR engine rebuild soon so might just throw that in in it's place
With proper tuning, no air leaks, and good maintenance, a rebuilt 2-stroke should last many hours of operation.
I don't remember exactly what you did to rebuild this engine, did you do crank seals?
I don't remember exactly what you did to rebuild this engine, did you do crank seals?
I thought so.
On this one I just did a meticulous top end on it. What exactly are the crank seals? They sound intimidating..
Crank seals are what gour outside the crankshaft bearings and seal the crank case keeping unregulated air out. With a 2-stroke, the fuel/oil/air mix is delivered into the engine crankcase during crankcase vacuum created by the piston moving up. Most of the 2-stroke oil falls out of suspension with the fuel to lubricate the bottom and and cylinder wall at this point. When the piston moves down the reed valve closes and that pressure being created in the case forced the fuel/air mix up into the cylinder through the transfer ports. If your crank seals or any other component in the engine is leaking allowing unregulated air into the crank case, it will cause a lean condition and can burn you down.
So basically, any leaking gasket/seal downstream of the carb can allow unregulated air in causing a lean condition. This would include the carb boot, reedvalve gaskets, cylinder base gasket, crank seals, crank case center gasket, and in some cases even a head gasket. But in the case of a badly leaking head gasket, most times you won't hardly be able to get it to run as compression will be significantly diminished.
You should be able to dig the old ones out and tap new ones in with the flywheel and clutch cover removed. You'll also need to remove the clutch drive gear and likely the clutch itself to expose the crankshaft and it's seals
