Porting and blowdown

That is the reason why he didn't complain on bf before

and you know about this how ?
you've talked to both parties and/or read all the messages in the conversations ?
you've been involved with the build thread all along and can easily spot the discrepancies ?
DB has done what he refused to do .... sent you the top end or piston for inspection to prove what he claims ?
DB has told you his side of the hole filled fairy tale ?
 
this is the wrong place to be biotch about
services that are offered at below retail value.

someone who does not know what a f*ckin P
in a spark plug means should not be throwing accusation.
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/new-project-2001-honda-cr80r.63027/#post-784181

The part of the engine that was serviced is fine.
the f*cking bottom end probably has taken out 3 top ends and still not addressed.
hence why it was sold to begin with.

bunch of sh*t in my book
im not even involved in this thread to begin with but
i can sence BULLSHIT A MILE AWAY
 
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A few questions are in order, and I'm just curious...

If I understand correctly, you pulled the cylinder after it had some break in time/ riding time on it, and adjusted the exhaust timing? Why did you adjust the exhaust timing (raise the exhaust port) in the middle of the break in? ...or did I just read that wrong? Or... do you mean the porting you did? If so I understand.
Yes, unfortunately the ever so height sempensitive transfers the primaries , ended up a couple degrees higher than I expected and it threw off the rpm range of my porting, so I adjusted rechamfered, new gaskets, leak test less than half a pound over ten minutes. Did a couple heat cycles and continued as normal. I did check around and of course if you own a machine shop and can put a new surface and rings on, that's the way to go. since the rings are fixed on two strokes they basically will ride the same way, many people have done this with success to replace a base gasket. I sure some will say otherwise, and it isn't the preferred way to go. More important is to clean and clean.

You mentioned above that you measured .013 between the piston crown and cylinder? the pistons are tapered and have more clearance at the top than the skirt (I know you know this)... this is what I get when I set piston clearance on a cast piston to .0015 ...just saying its not a know all tell all.
Correct, since the hug hadn't been pulled and i figured Ken would know the difference between e diameter of the crown and skirt onthis piston, or at least has some in stock to measure, I was hoping he would use this info to give me an idea of what to expect the proper clearance to be. Instead he insulted me acting like I wasn't intelligent enough to know is isnt the correct way to measure
Something isn't correct here...
I just measured a brand new wiseco piston that I have for a blaster. Its a 67mm piston (4th wiseco over size), part number 573M06700. It measures 2.622 at the very top edge above the top piston ring, and 2.635
(10mm up from the bottom) at the skirt. Thats a .013 (13 thousandths) difference. What does your measure at, and what size over bore is your piston?
Here are the measurements of the original 66.50 .020 over wiseco and the new 66.50 wiseco I bought for comparison.

Here is the measurement that were taken. Near the bottom of the skirt. Center of the i take windows, jist above the pin hole and at the crown just above the top ring groove.
Of course measurements were taken front to backl not side to side. Listed in millimeters, with skirt and crown numbers also listed in thousandths of an inch for comparison. Once again the machining marks are sharp
Old. New
Skirt. 66.35. 66.47. 2.612" old. 2.6175" new .0055"diff or 5.5 thousandths
Window. 66.35. 66.47
Pin. 66.24 66.30
Crown. 66.05 66.12. 2.600" old, 2.6035" new. .0035 diff. Or 3.5 thou


Read more: http://www.blasterforum.com/conversations/thanks-for-the-like.64354/#ixzz3sqkeir8Z
You quoted above... "There is no question it is 3.5 thousandths of an inch smaller at the top and 5.5 thou smaller at the bottom". I'm a bit confused here.

Where are you getting 95 to 100 octane at the pump? Seriously... I know of no fuel station, at least near me that sells 100 octane. That's aviation fuel territory.
OK pump gas is a slang term and means different things to different people, since I grew up wit a sunoco down the street that sells 100 octane out the pump I consider it pump gas. technically avgas would also be pump gas , anything except at which can only be bought in drums or barrels could be considered pump gas, 18.5cc ( I thought I decided to play it safe at 19) is a specific measurement and there is no question about it is the same all over the world. Sent customer service dictates that you use the specific term or measurement or contact the customer to clarify or suggest some thing you think might work better, not just pick a number you think sounds good, for whatever reason and send them that. No excuses here this is not world class its horrible customer service and shows arrogance. For example you go to Mac Donalds and order a double or whatever will hold you over till lunch, the guy behinds the counter figures your a small guy and gives you a single instead and says that it will hold you over till lunch so you go what you asked and paid for, then you find out you didnt, get any mayo (or in my case paint). Even a minimum wage MacDonald's cashier know you don't do this?


Did you specify a 19cc chamber? Please explain how you measured it. There is nothing wrong with a 21cc chamber what so ever for pump gas. The perfect squeeze for 92-93 octane pump gas. Just saying

What base gasket are/were you using?
Oem
What was the compression when you tested it after your rebuild? break in?
60 if I were to believe the pos guage I had....120 with an OEM brand from autozone ( probably not much better)
But for comparison it reads 130 on an 01 cr80 in ? Condition

What compression tester did you use (brand) ...This is important.

What are you using to measure the bore? The reason I ask, is because I have super accurate stuff here.
I only used a digital caliper to check top and bottom in both directions, machine shop used a dial bore guage.

What was your ring end gap?
Not sure I as already stated in a message to Ken it was a minimum of .020" visually it probably was closer to .030" but since I didn't measure properly , I won't make this claim
What is the timing (stator) set at, or is it a stock stator plate with no modifications?
As close to stock marks as possible on a slotted stator
Not to sound redundant, but did you do a leak down test BEFORE break in? What were the results? Did you do one before tearing it down again after the problem? If so where was it leaking?
Leak test were done before first start, after port adjustment, and before tear down the last was done with a more accurate low pressure gauge on awk testor. All were within .5 pound +-.1 of e initial 7 after ten to 12 minutes.
Please post some quality photo's of the piston ...top, BOTTOM (under the crown VERY important), and all sides with good lighting.
I will try to get some more pics in the daylight
Please post the same of the cylinder with good lighting. I need to see the port chamfering.

Pictures of the plug too with good lighting.


Lets see what we come up with. Not stirring the sh*t here, just need to know a few things to see what happened.
No discrediting, or defending.

Anything is possible. Its a funny little world we live in.
 
A few questions are in order, and I'm just curious...

If I understand correctly, you pulled the cylinder after it had some break in time/ riding time on it, and adjusted the exhaust timing? Why did you adjust the exhaust timing (raise the exhaust port) in the middle of the break in? ...or did I just read that wrong? Or... do you mean the porting you did? If so I understand.
Yes, unfortunately the ever so height sempensitive transfers the primaries , ended up a couple degrees higher than I expected and it threw off the rpm range of my porting, so I adjusted rechamfered, new gaskets, leak test less than half a pound over ten minutes. Did a couple heat cycles and continued as normal. I did check around and of course if you own a machine shop and can put a new surface and rings on, that's the way to go. since the rings are fixed on two strokes they basically will ride the same way, many people have done this with success to replace a base gasket. I sure some will say otherwise, and it isn't the preferred way to go. More important is to clean and clean.

You mentioned above that you measured .013 between the piston crown and cylinder? the pistons are tapered and have more clearance at the top than the skirt (I know you know this)... this is what I get when I set piston clearance on a cast piston to .0015 ...just saying its not a know all tell all.
Correct, since the hug hadn't been pulled and i figured Ken would know the difference between e diameter of the crown and skirt onthis piston, or at least has some in stock to measure, I was hoping he would use this info to give me an idea of what to expect the proper clearance to be. Instead he insulted me acting like I wasn't intelligent enough to know is isnt the correct way to measure
Something isn't correct here...
I just measured a brand new wiseco piston that I have for a blaster. Its a 67mm piston (4th wiseco over size), part number 573M06700. It measures 2.622 at the very top edge above the top piston ring, and 2.635
(10mm up from the bottom) at the skirt. Thats a .013 (13 thousandths) difference. What does your measure at, and what size over bore is your piston?
Here are the measurements of the original 66.50 .020 over wiseco and the new 66.50 wiseco I bought for comparison.

Here is the measurement that were taken. Near the bottom of the skirt. Center of the i take windows, jist above the pin hole and at the crown just above the top ring groove.
Of course measurements were taken front to backl not side to side. Listed in millimeters, with skirt and crown numbers also listed in thousandths of an inch for comparison. Once again the machining marks are sharp
Old. New
Skirt. 66.35. 66.47. 2.612" old. 2.6175" new .0055"diff or 5.5 thousandths
Window. 66.35. 66.47
Pin. 66.24 66.30
Crown. 66.05 66.12. 2.600" old, 2.6035" new. .0035 diff. Or 3.5 thou


Read more: http://www.blasterforum.com/conversations/thanks-for-the-like.64354/#ixzz3sqkeir8Z
You quoted above... "There is no question it is 3.5 thousandths of an inch smaller at the top and 5.5 thou smaller at the bottom". I'm a bit confused here.

Where are you getting 95 to 100 octane at the pump? Seriously... I know of no fuel station, at least near me that sells 100 octane. That's aviation fuel territory.
OK pump gas is a slang term and means different things to different people, since I grew up wit a sunoco down the street that sells 100 octane out the pump I consider it pump gas. technically avgas would also be pump gas , anything except at which can only be bought in drums or barrels could be considered pump gas, 18.5cc ( I thought I decided to play it safe at 19) is a specific measurement and there is no question about it is the same all over the world. Sent customer service dictates that you use the specific term or measurement or contact the customer to clarify or suggest some thing you think might work better, not just pick a number you think sounds good, for whatever reason and send them that. No excuses here this is not world class its horrible customer service and shows arrogance. For example you go to Mac Donalds and order a double or whatever will hold you over till lunch, the guy behinds the counter figures your a small guy and gives you a single instead and says that it will hold you over till lunch so you go what you asked and paid for, then you find out you didnt, get any mayo (or in my case paint). Even a minimum wage MacDonald's cashier know you don't do this?


Did you specify a 19cc chamber? Please explain how you measured it. There is nothing wrong with a 21cc chamber what so ever for pump gas. The perfect squeeze for 92-93 octane pump gas. Just saying

What base gasket are/were you using?
Oem
What was the compression when you tested it after your rebuild? break in?
60 if I were to believe the pos guage I had....120 with an OEM brand from autozone ( probably not much better)
But for comparison it reads 130 on an 01 cr80 in ? Condition

What compression tester did you use (brand) ...This is important.

What are you using to measure the bore? The reason I ask, is because I have super accurate stuff here.
I only used a digital caliper to check top and bottom in both directions, machine shop used a dial bore guage.

What was your ring end gap?
Not sure I as already stated in a message to Ken it was a minimum of .020" visually it probably was closer to .030" but since I didn't measure properly , I won't make this claim
What is the timing (stator) set at, or is it a stock stator plate with no modifications?
As close to stock marks as possible on a slotted stator
Not to sound redundant, but did you do a leak down test BEFORE break in? What were the results? Did you do one before tearing it down again after the problem? If so where was it leaking?
Leak test were done before first start, after port adjustment, and before tear down the last was done with a more accurate low pressure gauge on awk testor. All were within .5 pound +-.1 of e initial 7 after ten to 12 minutes.
Please post some quality photo's of the piston ...top, BOTTOM (under the crown VERY important), and all sides with good lighting.
I will try to get some more pics in the daylight
Please post the same of the cylinder with good lighting. I need to see the port chamfering.

Pictures of the plug too with good lighting.


Lets see what we come up with. Not stirring the sh*t here, just need to know a few things to see what happened.
No discrediting, or defending.
I see what you are getting at I assure you I wasn't run lean or full of grit.
Anything is possible. Its a funny little world we live in.
 
I'll add my input here, since both parties have involved me.

First of all Ionly asked if you could fill me in on where I had went against the rules since Ken said he was reporting my posts gave a quick rundown and asked you to remain neutral as far as the motor stuff went, never did we have a discussion about the work done. But you were kind enough to inform me that Ken is a staff member here at blaster forum, and that should not expect sort of privacy in any of my conversations here .



no, no and no again.
Yes I absolutely did tell Ken that initial ring gap was large at least .020 that I could be certain of
where have you up until right now, ever mentioned ring end gap was large ?
it's not in your build thread.
it's not in any of the conversations between you and I and ken.
never was this mentioned, sure looks like you're making sh-it up as you go.

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you didn't ask for a 19cc head, the build sheet you filled out in your own handwrting says ...........

"18.5 cc ? (hemi or torroidial) or for pump gas"
View attachment 25771



in another message I've seen you said "he gave me an almost stock head"
do you even know the cc of a stock head ?
I was under the impression that stock was 23cc could be wrong tho
you had no clue what you wanted or what works on these blasters.
he gave you what works and is what 90%+ of us run very successfully.
even if you can get 100 octane from a pump, it is not considered "pump gas", as was hand written on your build sheet.
Like I said before if the two conflicted you go with what is a known standard not a slang term, no excuses here he sent me something completely different than what I asked for. He could have shot me a message to see what I wanted, i t is not up to him to decide wheer I know what I want or not and just arbitrarily send me what he thinks I should have. Give a fat person that orders a coke a diet coke because you figured they didn't know what was best for them and tell them they obviously needed te diet, same difference.

***************************************************************************************


gotta luv this part of your "story", you're contradicting yourself, majorly.
between Nov. 5 and today

todays story


Nov. 5




where's any mention of this running bad in your build thread posts ?
low compression ? piston noise ? excessive ring gap ? or any other of this nonsense you now speak ?
oh thats right, there is none.
Correct I have more class than to air my dirty laundry and tried to remain positive and not bring issues that were between myself and Mr. O'Connor to the public eye but since you and he insisted on making his a public fre for all where you could gang up an me insult me , try to discredit me , then sweep it all under the rug. Who am I to deny the spectacle that the staff asked for. It's kinda funny I am so in the wrong and the Ken has so much cootg and classnthatnhe wants it brought up, so he can make a mockery of me for calling him out.


****************************************************************************************

way before any of this, on Sept 21, you started a convo with me wanting to know how to clean the bottom end after your last piston shattered, and asked if spraying brake cleaner down into it would clean it out good enough.
at which time I told you to "split the cases to clean out the shrapnel and rebuild the bottom end".
then no mention in your build thread or to me about the bottom end at all, for 2 weeks, nothing.
yet you chronicled the rest of it in great detail.

I only chronicled the porting work, as everything esle was basically done step for step from Kens videos which is another reason I didn't say anything puboically till drawn out to do so. Reguardless of Kens I can do no wrong attitude ,talk about a godly self imageand the horrible unprofessional junior high pissing match type of treatment I have recieved, he has done a lot for e community and I learned quit a bit from his videos, which is where my original inspiration to do my own porting come from. I really hated to admit to myself even that he would act like he has
then 2 weeks later on Oct. 6, magically the bottom end is done.



so, from sept 21 to oct 6, (2 weeks) you split the cases and cleaned, ordered and recieved new bearings, a crank splitter, an $80 tusk crank puller, yamabond, split and reassembled with all new bottom end parts,
yet no posts on the forum asking for advice, or messages to me on how splitting your first set of 2 stroke cases went, how you reassembled it, ect. ect ?
no mention of the bottom end at all, it just magically got done ?
There was no magic to the bottom end being done, I even personally thanked you for having me replace the main bearings, as well as have reciepts for main bearings, crank puller, seals, locknuts, etc. I also mention doing the shift mod, there is noting magic about the bottom being done nothing interesting not noteable either, except for me talking about you being right about never being able to get the bearings clean after askirt failure.

Read more: http://www.blasterforum.com/conversations/thanks-for-the-like.64354/#ixzz3sqkeir8Zesrings

I'm not buying it, at all.
****************************************************************************************

2 days ago you started a new "conversation" with me about this deal with ken,
I asked you some very simple questions to answer, including if you had actaully cleaned and rebuilt the bottom end.
yet you refused to answer even one of them............

I didn't answer any of you questions because inhad already answered e questions else where and clearly expressed to you that I did not wish to go back and forth with you over is issue that Ken and I were having? I only mentioned anything to you because I did not know Kenn staff and he had mentioned reporting me fornsometing but didn't say what.
And I do appreciate you linking everyone to a conversation after you told me it was against to post conversations not there contents in the forums,







your lack of cooperation, lack of provided info, tongue twisted contradicting stories, refusal to send the piston into wiseco on kens dime, your rant calling ken everything but a white man, accusing him of doing this purposefully to you, before he could ask you to send the whole top end back for inspection/remedy......has really limited your options here.

There was no lack of cooperation with Ken, and considering his offering for me to send the piston tomonenof his contacts was a last ditch effort to weasel out of an abvious mistake. I have the piston here as well as everything else, funny how you wanted to start this as soon as I let on like I had had the jug honed lol its still right here , if anyone really gives a sh*t to see form themselves I welcome anyone to come on by and examine my tools, the piston jug etc?
But seeing as how Ken absolutely broke my trust by encouraging me to continue to ride , even though he was aware of a piston slap and clearance issue. And this circus that has followed has done nothing to help. The very least he owes me a 18.5cc head at which time I will happily sent the 21cc deal back for someone else that fits the 90%.




as for anyone calling you an idiot, I don't see that anywhere, nor is it needed,
you've done way to good of a job at that for yourself.


.
 
WOW! There are some obvious holes in the story.
Seriously... you didn't rebuild the bottom end after a fragged piston? Say it isn't so...please.
Its possible the cases could have a minor crack (air leak = lean) from a piece of piston pressing it outward (bottom of case), or inward toward the counter-balancer (inside the case) where you can't see it.
Like I said above, a 20cc, (21cc), 22cc, and 23cc hemi head works great with all the pump gas I've used, and without issues, and without detonation.

I say ... "Hmmmm"

I don't know where any one for this idea I had a conversation with AwK about the crank bearings and replacing them the cranknin the bike was a wiseco crank and rod, wit zero play in the bearings I replaced the main bearings and I split and cleaned the cases, and hafe the reciepts and old bearings to show for it. I also posted results of leak tests more than once, I never said e head didn't work , in fact I never even mentioned it until I was attacked, after being told everything looked normal by Ken, then showing there was definitely a clearance issue.
 
If that fresh top end was installed on a bottom end that was flushed out after fragging a piston, its very possible that the crank is well worn and perhaps what you hear is "clicking bearings" and not piston slap. Its a possibility.
Something to check.

My personal blaster that I purchased used had a 66.25mm piston stuck in a 66.50 bore and ran great. It was a bit noisy, but not as noisy as you would think considering that kind of mistake.

All were replaced except for the bignend bearing and it had zero detectable play, cases split and cleaned etc, I am not so dumb as to waste my time with putting a topend on.

Anyhow everything inhave said is as honest and clear as I can make it , e questions I am answering so far aren't geared to getting to the bottom of things only questioning my integrity. It's a waste of my time I am already screwed and at isn't going to change. I had a machinist here locally look at the cylinder and a piston and simply said there is piston slap, and no less than .007" clearance. He looked at it and said too much clearance, I asked if a poorly shapeed exhaust port, had caused
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e it, and if he saw any signs of detonation. The answer was noi

Anyhow here are the pics inhave handy I will tryntomget more.
 
The attachment shown shows "(18.5cc? Hemi or torroidal) or for Pump gas"

18.5cc? ... and there is a question mark... tells me your not sure.

Hemi or Toroidal tells me your not picky on the combustion chamber shape.

or for Pump gas ... and its underlined, tells me its important to run pump gas.

If those instructions were sent to me, I would have cut you a head with 20cc's to 23cc's to keep it detonation free and have the ability to run automotive pump fuel. Seriously, I would.


How much "squish distance" you have is very important to the performance of that new head too. Did you check yours? A lot of folks don't, or are not sure how to do it.
Too much, and you don't get the full benefit of the re-chamber head, and too little does the same thing.
The sweet spot is right at 1mm or .040 (40 thousandths of an inch) + or - .005.

Chamber shape will change the characteristics of how the power comes..
Toroidal= softer hit and comes in down lower in the rpm range
Hemi= harder hit up higher in the rpm range. My personal favorite!

I prefer the Hemi on everything.

Having a blaster that runs on pump gas is NICE, but detonation SUCKS, so that is why you re-chamber the head while reducing the chamber volume. Its not just for the compression. That's important too, but chamber shape will dictate if that engine lives or dies from detonation.
A re-chambered head that has a larger combustion chamber, lets say 24cc's (volume/cc) will run awesome and produce lots of power when a small combustion chamber (volume/cc) of poor design will run poorly and produce lots of detonation. If you want to experiment with this, just take a stock head (poor design) and cut .060 off of it and see what happens. Your engine will hate it and so will you. Trust me... I've done this over and over again. That's how I know. I'm by no means an expert, however I know what worked for me.


Seriously... 21cc's is perfect for 93-95 octane (crap gas) that we have to choose from (which sucks) at the pump. The highest I usually find where I'm at is now 91 octane. I can't count how many times I've heard folks brag about running aviation fuel. That's funny. No need for it. The only thing making them faster is a lighter wallet. As a matter of fact, if you ran the crappy head example above on aviation fuel, it will still detonate.

I'm having a hard time seeing why you would want 18.5cc's. I would stick with what you have. Just saying.
 
I know its tough to take pictures of shiny things, but looking at the exhaust port and the intake ports inside the cylinder I can see a four corner seizure that is typical of a forged piston. Two gall marks on both sides of the exhaust port and two gall marks on both sides of the intake ports. This can be due to insufficient warm up before riding it like you stole it, or lack of piston to cylinder clearance. How does the piston look?
 
I can see a four corner seizure that is typical of a forged piston. Two gall marks on both sides of the exhaust port and two gall marks on both sides of the intake ports. This can be due to insufficient warm up before riding it like you stole it, or lack of piston to cylinder clearance.
Over heating can do it too among other things.


how dare you suggest that. :D
 
Its hard to believe this story. Especially one that uses harbor freight calipers,a feeler gauge, and works on an engine in a dirty bike. Was it to hard to wash down before tearing into it? I see marks on the cylinder that look like a 4 point seizure. I take it you didn't do any warming up before riding. My bet is you never even did heat cycles before running this motor. Wiseco cranks are the biggest POS on earth. I have personally seen 2 of them come apart. Never mind the fact they are a lot heavier and the webs look like a want to be engineer designed them. Pure junk made overseas... I could go on for days with all that I read. Lets concentrate on blow down and not where it really matters. May we all see your lineup of tools for working on 2 strokes. Porting equipment, assembly bench, etc... I would also love to see your notes on how you calculated your port job durations. Did you use a tape measure? yard stick? feeler gauge? finger to measure all this? This forum has seen plenty of wannabe porters. NONE of which had ability do a bore or hone!!
 
If someone said my measurements were off, and then posted pictures with a guessing stick and feeler gauge, I would have a good chuckle to. I think it was very professional of Ken to offer up a 3rd party inspection at his expense, as it is all I could have done as well. When that offer was refused, I would have been done as well.

However, I also feel the name calling is unprofessional.

I'm still new here, & don't know either of you. I'm not choosing sides, only stating what I see here.
 
After having some sleep and looking at the photos again, I clearly see a four corner seizure, or a start of one. It can be brought on by many things. That is without question. Many things can cause this to happen. The areas on the piston that cause this are the thickest part of the piston. This acts like a heat sink in that thick area which causes that area to expand faster. That's when it swells up in the thick parts of the piston, reduces clearances, and then wipes away the lubrication oil.
This happened when I was riding a blaster, and the effect was as if the brakes were being applied. Lightly then progressively more before I stopped the quad. A few moments of cool down, and it started up and ran great. I believe this is what you were noticing.

For a freshly built bottom end those cases are filthy. Like baked on dirt right at the base of the cylinder. Those cases don't looked like they were worked/split. Just my opinion.However it might just be the photo's. How does the bottom of the piston look?

When measuring the piston, forget measuring the top, middle, very top, etc. What your interested in is the diameter of the piston skirt about 10mm from the bottom. This area does not change much and is pretty stable, but the top and middle will be all over the map because of expansion. That new wiseco piston I measured was at at total difference of .013 between top and bottom measurements. That would change to probably .003 difference after the piston heated up and did its thing expanding.
 
there you go again Joe, accusing DB of wrong doing.
if you don't stop he's going to send you curse laden hissy fit messages,
and you'll be forced to end contact with him also.
 
It's pretty simple Joe. He screwed his assembly up with filthy hands and a bunch of piston shards in the bottom end and wore the piston down. The funny thing is, he's measuring the cylinder bore and calling it perfect but telling me I didn't measure the piston. Are you f*cking kidding me???? I bore cylinders without measuring pistons. No way!!!!! Best excuse I can make for this minion is he's an engineering student. What's the difference between God and an engineer? God doesn't think he's an engineer. DB is only looking for his work for free. Everything that was done in my shop was perfect, to spec, and delivered in a timely manor. I encourage anyone that's even looking at this midgets post to go back into this thread and read how f*cking impressed he was with my product. Bottom line is ..........I sent him a world class product and he's not even capable of doing a CLEAN top end rebuild. I have a big target on my back guys. Take your best shot db.

Wow and you wonder why I never said anything on the forum before, complete and total lack of class or professionalism, maybe it is acceptable in Connecticut for businessmen to carry themselves like a high school bully, but no where else in the US, Canada or even Germany have I seen is kind of low brow behavior, toward a paying customer.
The fact is had you delivered a world class job , and I had done something to cause this, is like have wasn clamoring to get you to bore it again on my dime, and trying to get you to redo the head to my requested specific specification. I mean this was one unimportant job on the list to you, and getting to spend the fall riding wit my boys to me of course I didn't take any chances.

What's worse is how many times your story has changed first there was nomsign of wear so there was no clearance issue because that ment you would have had to make a mistake. Next since there obviously was a clearance issue , e story was I filled my cylinder full of sand with my grubby hands (which would wear it that fast anyway it would lockup first), then it was I sucked it full of water, then I ran it lean and overheated it, and now we have come full circle back to I filled it full of dirt again. Really if I had caused the problem if would have been obvious like .008" clearance with no abnormal wear except at the very edges of the skirts, which my current low resolution pictures won't show. But I will see if I can use the photo booth at work to get some really good high resolution pictures, of the entire piston, that way everyone can clearly see nice clean machine lines everywhere but the skirt which shows scuffing from excessive clearance.
I mean really you would pull this juvenile stunt rather than admit you made a mistake and assumed the piston was in spec. had you just fixed your mistake, I would have continued to put a happy spin on things and probably never mentioned the head.
But instead you make yourself look like a total jackass, trying to discredit me. I mean really you think you work is so great that I would go through all of this to try to get it for free? While in the meantime buying another bike, another piston and bearing, as well as a couple hundred dollars worth of parts.


Anyhow here is a pic of my plug, along with some low resolution pictures of my piston , ultra high resolution pictures will follow, as will pictures of the replaced crank bearings, and tools that I used to split the cases, since supposedly I didn't do so, even though the one who makes the claim worked with me on replacing rather than tryingto clean the bearings, and yeah it was one evening and boom e cases were together. Not to mention I also had posts about which case bond to use , would Permatex Moto1 work well.

But thanks for screwing up my bore job, treating me like a nobody dog when I asked about it, and initiating and participatingi. This public smear fest, where these far fetched claims, and outright lies against have been spewed.

I will submit pics other than that I am done wastingmy time god himself could look at it and before he could draw a conclusion Mr Ken Perfect O'Connor would say excuse me your in my chair and no need to even look into it I never have and never will make a mistake.
Baulderdash
 
That would not have done me any good if it had been bored to the out of spec piston, a larger in spec piston would have not fit or seized immediately. Unless you are now suggesting that a bore of 66.525 which is perfect for an in spec piston is the size you honed my cylinder too? Then you would be correct and a piston .0055" larger at the skirt would fit nicely.

I could make a video of said fit, but hi-res photos will be enough to show anyone that knows the difference, and of course this is your forum so you will get support right or wrong.

It really doesn't matter the biggest mistake I made is not getting a digital caliper and/or a dial bore guage and doiubly checking to start with, then is could have been settled before the plastic wrap even fell to the floor.

All I can say to the masses is be carefully and double check no matter who you use, how credible they are, or how great their accomplishments are anyone and everyone can and will make mistakes from time to time.

I went to far on the primary transfers cleaning them up with a hand file and it probably was not the best idea to modify them without the proper right angle piece anyway, but at the end of the day it works. Here's another little secret I went a little over board with the neutral detent on my shift star and 1 two 2 shifts are worse than before, the rest of the gears shift nicely and I have e forum to thank for that. Neutral can be fixed. I do make mistakes and really don't have any problem with them., I started this project to have a little fun and learn something in the process I learned a lot more than I wanted to know, had a lot of fun, and it looks like I should be able to put a new to spec piston in, with only a light crosshatch job. The place I bought the first piston from has already agreed to replace it. And I have another unbored stock cylinder, and untouched head, to put wit that new piston. So really it will just cost me the expense of having the bore re surfaced, as longn as I can live with 140 not 160+ psi of compression.
 
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