It does. The left crank bearing is the "thrust" bearing and keeps the crank from bouncing back and forth. The crank has to be pulled into the left side bearing, it drops into the right side bearing. You should pull the crank into the left side case and assemble the transmission in there and then put the sealant on the right side case and slide it down.
cole454's Rebuild
- Thread starter cole454
- Start date
Hmmm. I did it in this order last time I split the cases. Didn't have any problems except my own stupidity at not double checking the shift forks and having to re-split them.
I had to use my crank puller on the right side to pull the crank in. It didn't just drop in. I'm just going to follow through and continue the way I'm going now, but next time I'll do it the "right" way and see. Thanks for heads up.
I had to use my crank puller on the right side to pull the crank in. It didn't just drop in. I'm just going to follow through and continue the way I'm going now, but next time I'll do it the "right" way and see. Thanks for heads up.
Generally, the left side cases is easier to drop everything in and the left side bearing should be the one which is tight, the right side bearing should slide down on the crankshaft with little resistance.
If the right side on yours is the tight side, then continue on. The right way is the way it works for you LOL.
If the right side on yours is the tight side, then continue on. The right way is the way it works for you LOL.
I've been doing a bunch of reading on the subject. I have the arms all done except for coating but the heat and humidity have been so oppressive these last few days, I haven't even been able to think about messing around in a full face mask. Would like pictures of the arms all done but uncoated?
Well, Ordered a bunch of stuff.
Primary Drive 14t front sprocket
Primary Drive 40t rear sprocket
Primary Drive 520 106 link O-ring chain
Cometic gasket set
Tusk shifter
Tusk HD clutch springs
Bunch of main jets and a few pilots
UPP 34mm Intake manifold
Should all be here next week.
Supposed to get my a arms next week also. Hopefully I'll get this thing going in the next couple of weeks. Won't be completely finished but I want to ride so I'll finish the plastics later.
Primary Drive 14t front sprocket
Primary Drive 40t rear sprocket
Primary Drive 520 106 link O-ring chain
Cometic gasket set
Tusk shifter
Tusk HD clutch springs
Bunch of main jets and a few pilots
UPP 34mm Intake manifold
Should all be here next week.
Supposed to get my a arms next week also. Hopefully I'll get this thing going in the next couple of weeks. Won't be completely finished but I want to ride so I'll finish the plastics later.
Got some stuff in the mail today.
But I found out that my 34mm PJ is actually a 38mm PJ. So I'm looking at carbs. I've got my eye on a 35mm PWK Air Striker on ebay, but need to get rid of this one first.
http://www.blasterforum.com/sale-18/f-s-t-38mm-pj-41605/
But I found out that my 34mm PJ is actually a 38mm PJ. So I'm looking at carbs. I've got my eye on a 35mm PWK Air Striker on ebay, but need to get rid of this one first.
http://www.blasterforum.com/sale-18/f-s-t-38mm-pj-41605/
Well sold my 38PJ, Buying a 35PWK A/S.
But...
This can't be right for a 67mm piston.
Noticed when turning the motor over by hand it had a lot of resistance at the top of the stroke. Didn't do that with the head off. So I took it off and measured it.
So now the head has to go back to Ken. Won't be riding next weekend like I hoped.
Sicivicdude, More time to get the ball joints in.
But...
This can't be right for a 67mm piston.
Noticed when turning the motor over by hand it had a lot of resistance at the top of the stroke. Didn't do that with the head off. So I took it off and measured it.
So now the head has to go back to Ken. Won't be riding next weekend like I hoped.
Sicivicdude, More time to get the ball joints in.
I still need to contact him so don't start drawing conclusions yet. Let him fix it and we'll see how it goes.
The good news is, unlike SOME builders *cough kennedy cough* Ken will at least stand behind his work. He'll fix it anyway but it doesn't help the shipping costs back and forth...
That right there is one reason when I spent all the time to hand cut my squish, I cut it large enough for the next oversize than what I already had. That way if I got in a pinch, I could rebore quickly and put it right back together.....
That right there is one reason when I spent all the time to hand cut my squish, I cut it large enough for the next oversize than what I already had. That way if I got in a pinch, I could rebore quickly and put it right back together.....
Your head gasket is covering the bore. Place it on top of the cylinder, move it around and take more pictures. Center the gasket when you assemble it.
ken stand behind his work, thats the difference he even told me of a problem i may have before i even assembled the motor and told me to do a test and if it came out wrong he would fix it free of charge, everyone is human and makes mistakes and i can personally tell u another builder we all know of has f**cked up worse than that, it was my head he f**cked up, ken knows because i sent him the head with my motor. but i dont bash, unless its kennedy, and this is a build thread, dont turn it into a omg what happened? thread. lets keep on topic. unless u know the facts dont start talkin sh*t, i talk to ken on a regular basis and if u worked 80-100 hrs a week u would know something is going to get f*cked up, human nature. i do the same thing in the military, days w/o sleep or an hr here and there.
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Well I'm not going to comment on this issue anymore until we get it fixed. No need to spread rumors. For the record I am very pleased with Ken's service so far.
Now on another note, I went ahead and performed a leakdown test and it held air until it popped the tester out of the intake. lol
Need to get a proper way to adapt my tester to a larger intake. So no leaky VF3's for me.
Promised somebody that I would post pics of the porting I did to my VF3's.
After looking at the pics I think I can open it up a bit more and do more sanding to smooth the surfaces a bit.
Now on another note, I went ahead and performed a leakdown test and it held air until it popped the tester out of the intake. lol
Need to get a proper way to adapt my tester to a larger intake. So no leaky VF3's for me.
Promised somebody that I would post pics of the porting I did to my VF3's.
After looking at the pics I think I can open it up a bit more and do more sanding to smooth the surfaces a bit.
Well sent my head to Ken for a little adjustment. He's taking care of me as usual. He told me he is paying shipping and is throwing in a free head gasket. I still stand by his customer service as second to none.
Also paid for another 35mm PWK Airstriker. Hopefully this one turns out to be what it's supposed to be.
And I worked some more on my VF3's. Looking at them side by side with a stock cage I can see what sicivicdude is getting at.
Also paid for another 35mm PWK Airstriker. Hopefully this one turns out to be what it's supposed to be.
And I worked some more on my VF3's. Looking at them side by side with a stock cage I can see what sicivicdude is getting at.
