B9es plug

[89blaster89]

im thinking about experimenting with using a b9es spark plug. only reason why im thinking about it is becuase i have a rechambered head so basiclly the spark plug is closer to the piston at TDC so that means more heat correct? i know braaaptor is using one, is anyone else using one?

 

[mud runner]

i run one 1515151515

 

[89blaster89]

i run one 1515151515

more info, what are your mods, how does it work out for ya?

 

[Blaaster]

i have a rechambered head so basiclly the spark plug is closer to the piston at TDC so that means more heat correct?

Where did you get that info from.

A b8es will work just fine with your head.

An unaltered engine will run a b8es within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug.

The worse thing you can do is foul a plug with a b9es.

 

[89blaster89]

i think i may try it and see how it goes. my modded head increased compression

 

[Blaaster]

Take a spare b8es with you, and wrench to change if you go on a long ride!

 

[Awk08]

the heat range of a plug is the temperature of the plug itself, to keep itself clean and from oil fouling.
it does not effect the operating temperature of the cylinder at all.

 

[thekingblaster]

I run a b7es which is a hotter plug because with 32:1 klotz oil and b8es
I spit and spudder if i dont open her up ill foul a plug lol

 

[mud runner]

more info, what are your mods, how does it work out for ya?

ported +4 timing 93 octane gas ams oil bored 60 over wiseco wiseco crank 300 jetting dg pipe and silencer and b9es plug

 

[best]

im thinking about experimenting with using a b9es spark plug. only reason why im thinking about it is becuase i have a rechambered head so basiclly the spark plug is closer to the piston at TDC so that means more heat correct? i know braaaptor is using one, is anyone else using one?

No problem to tell if you need one. Look at the insulator and threads after a long hard WOT run.
Is it white and blistered? Are the last 4 threads blue?
If it is, you need a B9ES colder plug.

If you run a colder plug on an engine that doesn't need one you are losing power.

Pictures of cold, normal plugs and hot plugs to compare:
(Hope this shows up with your formatting)

 

[89blaster89]

No problem to tell if you need one. Look at the insulator and threads after a long hard WOT run.
Is it white and blistered? Are the last 4 threads blue?
If it is, you need a B9ES colder plug.

If you run a colder plug on an engine that doesn't need one you are losing power.

Pictures of cold, normal plugs and hot plugs to compare:
(Hope this shows up with your formatting)

thanks rep given, should i do this with a brand new plug or?

 

[best]

Actually plug temp will show up on a well worn plug if run long and hard enough.
Just that you better make sure WOT mixture is right before giving it a long hard run.
Otherwise it might blow up during the run.

So like the motto says, on a new plug, "leak test - plug chop" for WOT main jetting.
Then when the jetting is right (the ring down near base of the insulator where it is hard to see), do the long hard.
Your day-to-day plug it will normally show cold because of all the part throttle.
Need the long hard run to get it to its hottest.

Steve