When it rains it pours!

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Well we had a hurricane today so I figured, what better time to work out in the garage?!

I plugged all of my porting values and cylinder numbers into 2 stroke wizard pipe building program and it spit me out a pipe design.

The head pipe and 1st stage divergent section with the cuts made but not welded up yet

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The pipe all the way to the main large diameter section. It's 3 stage divergent but most of the first stage is taken up with the angle to get around the frame.

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The welds, not the prettiest thing I've ever done LOL but it is a transformer tig on 22 gauge steel...

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Two words.... Got pipe?

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I've got to go get another sheet of steel tomorrow to finish it up. I think I'm going to do this one silenced too....
 
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I'm thinking the pipe program lied to me. It's HUGE! The center section of the pipe is nearly 6" in diameter.

Way bigger than I've seen blasty's run before but this is what the program spit out for my cylinder setup.
 
Ya i was looking at that, f-ing huge. Never know though, may run like a raped ape and run close to 10000 rpms with the rite supporting mods. Your diving into uncharted waters here.
 
THat is big but maybe the pipe makers just have a diff possibly even better program so it can be designed smaller.

i get online just to check this thread,
 
Ya i was thinking by the look and size of the pipe that the target rpm range would be a lot higher than a normal blasty pipe. It has been proved with mathematics that a blasty can easily turn 10,000 rpm with the right amout of air flow in and the right amount of air flow out. That right amount to turn 10,000 rpm just happens to be a super lot. That massively large cone just happens to allow alot more air flow out than an ordinary pipe. An that nitrometh is bound to help out the whole mix of a large intake and a super large pipe.

Speaking of in take? Any radical ideas on how to augment lots of airflow into the cylinder? Obviously cr-125 reeds are a good start. Airbox or no? Velocity stack with a large pod filter could be an option.
 
Working within the confines of the stock blasty intake CR125 reed cage with a custom intake manifold is what I'm leaning towards.

My plan is to roll an aluminum tube (hell, I gotta roller why not?!) to get it back somewhere beside the rear suspension strut and put a large diameter uni type filter on it from there. The inlet into the PJ 38 carb is about 3 1/4" so I'm thinking a 4"x6" uni filter no airbox set over beside the strut (possibly with a mounting onto the strut ) so the filter stays put.

1995: it's not about the program.... the size of the pipe is determined by the needs of the engine, mainly the amount of flow in and out and the strength of the sound waves bouncing back toward the engine. This is the size pipe the program spit out at me so I started cutting and welding LOL. Like uncaged said, this is kidna new territory so I'm gonna roll with it.
 
would your target rpm and max rpm be different? i would think that a target rpm would be lower, something like 6-8k maybe with over-rev capability of 10k? just a though...
 
10K isn't my target rpm, that's where I figure this pipe is going to stop(redline). My input target for the pipe program was 9k. Sorry if that was confusing, I should have clarified.

And it's not like this pipe is THAT large after measuring, a DG head pipe has a "thick" section of 4 3/8". This just LOOKS huge really.
 
The pipe is just laying on the ground right here and the silencer isn't attached yet. I have to get some proper diameter tubing for the stinger, it needs an inside diameter smaller than my rolls (or pretty much any rolls for that matter) can roll. I also have to work the silencer body end and end cap for screws. It's welded at the front, I'm going to screw the back on so I can change out packing if need be.

Also, the "engine" in there so just a mock-up cylinder and empty set of cases. I only have it in there so I can re work the motor mounts and space the pipe out.

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Thats nice. how many hours you got into the pipe? is it light weight?

looks good cant believe noone is posting its prob becuase not many people other than u know about stuff that technical lol.
 
Civic you have to keep that pipe bare, its tits, i also have that program and built a pipe for a pw80, and it was normal sized with a mild port jobe and it ran like a raped ape, so i dont belive it lied to you, Also are you going to run a lockout or a backut trans anything like that? ps if you need anything made on a mill/ lathe let me know i might be able to do it for you. keep it up man, then i can copy your build but go bigger without all the issues lol
 
1995blaster said:
Thats nice. how many hours you got into the pipe? is it light weight?

looks good cant believe noone is posting its prob becuase not many people other than u know about stuff that technical lol.
Click to expand...

I started with two sheets of 24" x 24" sheet steel Saturday about noon. I started cutting and rolling and then welding things together as I made them (all piece mill like). I finished up to the largest diameter section by Saturday evening but had made a mistake cutting and needed another sheet of steel (2'x4' would have done it had I not fugged up cutting) so I had to wait until Ace hardware opened for my wife to pick up another sheet so Sunday morning after breakfast I got to working on the cylinder adapter (oh yeah, don't think I went all ghetto..... this thing's got a cylinder adapter and everything!). When she went to go get some lunch she brought back another sheet of steel and I had enough to finish the convergent cone and silencer. I was finishing up welding the silencer tip together about 4PM yesterday as I was starting up the grill to cook dinner LOL. I still have to fab the back cap for the silencer and weld in the stinger pipe (which I don't have just yet otherwise that would have been done too) but those are both fairly minor things and don't require a whole lot of thinking or welding.

The pipe weighs about 4 lbs, basically nothing at all.

blasterracer817 said:
Civic you have to keep that pipe bare, its tits, i also have that program and built a pipe for a pw80, and it was normal sized with a mild port jobe and it ran like a raped ape, so i dont belive it lied to you, Also are you going to run a lockout or a backut trans anything like that? ps if you need anything made on a mill/ lathe let me know i might be able to do it for you. keep it up man, then i can copy your build but go bigger without all the issues lol
Click to expand...

I need a good way to coat it bare. It's too big for my oven to get powdercoated and regular spray can clear is going to brown up the first time I start this monster.

Looking at the pipe now, I don't think the program lied to me.... I was just kinda shocked after it started taking shape how big it was. The main section looked like a coffee can when I got done rolling it....

I would like to get an over-ride transmission at some point but I have to hear the beast snort fire before I can drop like 5 bills on a transmission.... For now we're going to rock a billet clutch basket, RDZ drag springs, and full fiber and steel clutch pack with a stock transmission.

Feel free to take away any lessons you can from this. I would love to see some more "home-grown" bikes around here.
 
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