Yes you could, I just figured a coil that is meant to power a distributor for 8 cylinders should be able to fire one cylinder pretty well.
When it rains it pours!
- Thread starter sicivicdude
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Yes you could, I just figured a coil that is meant to power a distributor for 8 cylinders should be able to fire one cylinder pretty well.
The "can" style coils are the standard coil for american V8's for like 40 years. The mustang coil is only shaped like that because Ford was trying to be difficult and had space issues.
Oh, ok. The "can" coils aren't too badly priced either, I just wasn't sure what your ignition budget was.
I upgraded the stock coil on my CRX to a MSD Blaster 2 "can" coil after the weak sauce stock one couldn't cut the mustard.
The price was right and it puts out GOOD fire.
The price was right and it puts out GOOD fire.
Well I glad someone caught onto the punch line of a joke cause that part was the joke
LOFL hahahaha.......As to the second and third part I wouldn’t know anything about that off the top of my head.
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Warning! more thoughts to come....
Balancer shaft, to run or not to run. I'm thinking that vibrations on a drag motor is an acceptable fact life life and nothing to be worried about. I could MAYBE sneak the balancer shaft into work and chuck it up in the lathe and take some off but I'm not sure what if any benefit that would offer me. I'm thinking that my best bet would be to eliminate the balancer shaft, gear, and bearings altogether. No sense in having pieces inside the engine unless they're necessary, right?
Anyone have experience with balancer shaftless blaster engines and durability? Does the crank try to rip the cases apart if the balancer shaft isn't in there or is it just a little hand-numbing?
Balancer shaft, to run or not to run. I'm thinking that vibrations on a drag motor is an acceptable fact life life and nothing to be worried about. I could MAYBE sneak the balancer shaft into work and chuck it up in the lathe and take some off but I'm not sure what if any benefit that would offer me. I'm thinking that my best bet would be to eliminate the balancer shaft, gear, and bearings altogether. No sense in having pieces inside the engine unless they're necessary, right?
Anyone have experience with balancer shaftless blaster engines and durability? Does the crank try to rip the cases apart if the balancer shaft isn't in there or is it just a little hand-numbing?
I'm half tempted to throw it together with no balancer shaft or hardware at all and just see how it works.
I know the vibrations will be worse but I can deal with vibes..... I am worried about the crank bearings flying out of this thing though. I guess there isn't but one way to find out!
I know the vibrations will be worse but I can deal with vibes..... I am worried about the crank bearings flying out of this thing though. I guess there isn't but one way to find out!
I have been running mine without the balance shaft with no issues yet other than loosening random nuts. Nothing a little locktight can't fix.
Sweet, we'll be going balancer shaftless on this one. Loctite is probably going to be a must anyway I cut it.
More thoughts!
I'm thinking that I should remake the footpegs on this machine while I'm at some funky modifications. I'm thinking the foot pegs should be more "street bike" style up and back with the heel guard built in out of good steel.
I don't want my foot getting snagged and the only way I can do anything about it is to remake the foot pegs/heel guards.
Also, does anyone have a seat base which is in usable shape? The seat itself can be completely torn up, I only need the plastic base anyway.... I will sell at an extremely reduced price the blue travelcade recovered seat that was on this quad to someone who has a torn up seat who'll trade with boot. It's in GREAT shape so I hate to take it all apart only to strip it down and recover it. It's a shame really to have this seat go to pot is someone could use it.
My plan is to make a "rise" off the seat base (maybe out of fiberglass) and attach it to the seat base and then cover that in batting foam and vynil. I want a seat I can't just slide off the back of.
More thoughts!
I'm thinking that I should remake the footpegs on this machine while I'm at some funky modifications. I'm thinking the foot pegs should be more "street bike" style up and back with the heel guard built in out of good steel.
I don't want my foot getting snagged and the only way I can do anything about it is to remake the foot pegs/heel guards.
Also, does anyone have a seat base which is in usable shape? The seat itself can be completely torn up, I only need the plastic base anyway.... I will sell at an extremely reduced price the blue travelcade recovered seat that was on this quad to someone who has a torn up seat who'll trade with boot. It's in GREAT shape so I hate to take it all apart only to strip it down and recover it. It's a shame really to have this seat go to pot is someone could use it.
My plan is to make a "rise" off the seat base (maybe out of fiberglass) and attach it to the seat base and then cover that in batting foam and vynil. I want a seat I can't just slide off the back of.
So some revelations finally!
I went out and looked at my stator side cover. Never really looked that close at it honestly.
The stator side seal is held in by a boss made into the stator plate. I'll be using a Ricky Stator adjustable timing plate turned up to about 11 degrees advance (and that might not be enough)
I think I'm going to go the "easy" way and run the stock source coil and trigger for this setup. I am going to strip the wiring harness down to a bear nub and figure out how to use the stock source coil and trigger while using a 12V automobile style coil. I'm thinking I can use the stock ground wire to trigger the coil but power the coil with the battery. I may run into a floating problem trying this so perhaps more thought and experimentation is needed.
I am going to make a plate for the clutch side crank seal to hold it in to replace the "fork" style plate with a piece that spans the outside of the seal lip all the way to the other blind threaded hole.
I went out and looked at my stator side cover. Never really looked that close at it honestly.
The stator side seal is held in by a boss made into the stator plate. I'll be using a Ricky Stator adjustable timing plate turned up to about 11 degrees advance (and that might not be enough)
I think I'm going to go the "easy" way and run the stock source coil and trigger for this setup. I am going to strip the wiring harness down to a bear nub and figure out how to use the stock source coil and trigger while using a 12V automobile style coil. I'm thinking I can use the stock ground wire to trigger the coil but power the coil with the battery. I may run into a floating problem trying this so perhaps more thought and experimentation is needed.
I am going to make a plate for the clutch side crank seal to hold it in to replace the "fork" style plate with a piece that spans the outside of the seal lip all the way to the other blind threaded hole.
what you can try is to remove the ignition source coil and replace it with a second lighting coil, float the grounds on the now 2 lighting coils. run them to a rectifier and that to the battery. that should help generate a lot more power to help you run the ignition standalone on the battery and pickup coil
The problem is, the CDI needs power and it's designed to run off the source coil which is an A/C coil. If the CDI doesn't have a rectifier built in and uses the voltage rise from the source coil in part of it's ignition timing advance, then trying to run the CDI off a 12VDC battery will not let it do the proper timing advance.
More testing is needed on the way the CDI works with the source coil and trigger to advance the timing.
More testing is needed on the way the CDI works with the source coil and trigger to advance the timing.
well I wasn't trying to, I was going to use the stock CDI box, wiring, and source coil if need be.
Honestly, I'm kind of unsure what can be comparable to the electronic advance for the blaster without using the A/C source coil input....
Honestly, I'm kind of unsure what can be comparable to the electronic advance for the blaster without using the A/C source coil input....
The balancer shaft is located behind the crankcase above the transmission between the two case halves. You can see the drive gear under the clutch cover but the cases have to come apart to access the balancer shaft.
O my lol maybe over the winter I will try this out vibrations never bothered me haha btw how far along is ur build coming any new pics?
You can easily remove the gear to the balance shaft if anyone wants to try it. Pics are always good!
I bought 2 stroke wizard Pro 3 last night and got to play with a bit right before bed. I was giddy with excitement while it was sitting there doing the "flow optimization" and then it finally spit out a pipe design!
So with a basic target pipe in mind (I'll need to do some more refining to this because I just guessed about the exhaust port size and final shape) I'll know the final length to shoot for.
The pipe should actually move fairly quickly.... I bought some sheet steel the other day at Ace Hardware for doing this.
I also pushed the frame around the end of the garage yesterday and put the front end on a jackstand. I think I'm going to strip the frame to nothing for the start of this. Basically the entire suspension is coming off anyway so that only really leaves the frame. Perhaps I'll get some pics of the frame bare sitting on the lift table tonight
So with a basic target pipe in mind (I'll need to do some more refining to this because I just guessed about the exhaust port size and final shape) I'll know the final length to shoot for.
The pipe should actually move fairly quickly.... I bought some sheet steel the other day at Ace Hardware for doing this.
I also pushed the frame around the end of the garage yesterday and put the front end on a jackstand. I think I'm going to strip the frame to nothing for the start of this. Basically the entire suspension is coming off anyway so that only really leaves the frame. Perhaps I'll get some pics of the frame bare sitting on the lift table tonight
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