When it rains it pours!
- Thread starter sicivicdude
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I currently hold the world record for blasty complete rebuilt time anyway.... my trail blaster was like 3 weeks from complete tear down to completely done. I'll get some pics as I finish things. At times this is going to take a while.... I've got to wait for funds to clear up and then I have some tedious work which isn't worth picturing. The work last night on the stator side case and stator plate wasn't worth picturing....
And now I have to get some 3/4" aluminum bar stock... and a foot of M10 hardened threaded rod.
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/so-they-asked-me-what-blaster-needed-41477/
The intake ears are a particularly weak spot. It seems the same solution for how to add MASSIVE boyesen ports is also the same to strengthen the cylinder mounting ears. And considering I have a tig welder now, why not?! Of course all the cylinder welding will take place BEFORE boring to ensure I don't get any uncontrolled warpage.
MORE THOUGHTS!
A lot of high RPM 2 stroke only use 1 ring... I am thinking of the same thing for this. My plan is to use a wiseco piston for this build but I'm thinking I should extract the bottom ring pin and only use a single ring on top. While this sounds counterintuative for generating compression, a single ring performs adequately for generating compression, it just doesn't last too long doing it. I'm thinking I'll be lucky to get a summer out of this engine/piston combo anyway (which is part of why I'm trading blaster freek a cylinder for one with more life in it BTW, THANKS BUDDY!) so ring life is the least of my concerns.
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/so-they-asked-me-what-blaster-needed-41477/
The intake ears are a particularly weak spot. It seems the same solution for how to add MASSIVE boyesen ports is also the same to strengthen the cylinder mounting ears. And considering I have a tig welder now, why not?! Of course all the cylinder welding will take place BEFORE boring to ensure I don't get any uncontrolled warpage.
MORE THOUGHTS!
A lot of high RPM 2 stroke only use 1 ring... I am thinking of the same thing for this. My plan is to use a wiseco piston for this build but I'm thinking I should extract the bottom ring pin and only use a single ring on top. While this sounds counterintuative for generating compression, a single ring performs adequately for generating compression, it just doesn't last too long doing it. I'm thinking I'll be lucky to get a summer out of this engine/piston combo anyway (which is part of why I'm trading blaster freek a cylinder for one with more life in it BTW, THANKS BUDDY!) so ring life is the least of my concerns.
I went and stood in the aisle at Northern Tool and spun tires until I found two that were satisfactory.
$98 dollars later I have most of the materials needed to make the front "suspension". I bought two "go-kart" spindles, the tie rod kit, and two large diameter buff wheels and tires. Pictures later!
$98 dollars later I have most of the materials needed to make the front "suspension". I bought two "go-kart" spindles, the tie rod kit, and two large diameter buff wheels and tires. Pictures later!
Well, I got one tube done on one side for the front suspension I have the kingpin lined up with zero camber and zero caster with the frame set 4.5" off the worktable. They're like -2 +6 arms.
I also moved the steering stem flag to down in front of the bracket it slides down to. That will put the tie rods nearly perfectly straight with the hubs even with them 6 inches more forward then the original hubs.
I took pictures with my cell phone but it won't let me transfer them to photobucket from my email so I'm going to go back outside in a little while and take some high quality pics with the good camera. LOL
I'm making the front and rear tubes out of 3/4" .065" chromoly
I also moved the steering stem flag to down in front of the bracket it slides down to. That will put the tie rods nearly perfectly straight with the hubs even with them 6 inches more forward then the original hubs.
I took pictures with my cell phone but it won't let me transfer them to photobucket from my email so I'm going to go back outside in a little while and take some high quality pics with the good camera. LOL
I'm making the front and rear tubes out of 3/4" .065" chromoly
I can't wait to see this front suspension it almost exactly what I'm going to be doing this winter.
Well it wouldn't let me put comments between the pictures so here goes!
The first three pictures are nearly the before pictures. The only thing I had done was to take the back tires off, flip the hubs, and install the paddles on stock wheels. Total width at the rear end like this is 38".
The next two pics are of the wheel,tire and front tube of the "suspension" mounting on the bike. That's with the frame sitting level 4.5" off the table surface. The outside of the tire is about 18.5" from the center line of the quad so it should sit right parallel with the outside of the paddles. There is no camber and almost no caster (maybe 2 degrees) with this setup. That's not an issue considering these tires are going to be sanded smooth buff and hopefully won't be hardly touching the sand until after the 300" mark anyway.
The first three pictures are nearly the before pictures. The only thing I had done was to take the back tires off, flip the hubs, and install the paddles on stock wheels. Total width at the rear end like this is 38".
The next two pics are of the wheel,tire and front tube of the "suspension" mounting on the bike. That's with the frame sitting level 4.5" off the table surface. The outside of the tire is about 18.5" from the center line of the quad so it should sit right parallel with the outside of the paddles. There is no camber and almost no caster (maybe 2 degrees) with this setup. That's not an issue considering these tires are going to be sanded smooth buff and hopefully won't be hardly touching the sand until after the 300" mark anyway.
Looking at the pictures, that steering stem flag with 1/8" plate seems kinda flimsy. It's not in my hands but I think I'm going to reinforce it with some round rod on the front and back or cut that out and use some 1/4" plate instead of that 1/8".
I've also decided not to use the $15/foot 1"x 2" rectangular chromoly tubing for the "swingarm". I'm going to place an order tomorrow for a PILE of 3/4" .065" chromoly tubing and make a tube "swingarm" for this. No sacrifice in strength but saving cost and probably weight.
I've also decided not to use the $15/foot 1"x 2" rectangular chromoly tubing for the "swingarm". I'm going to place an order tomorrow for a PILE of 3/4" .065" chromoly tubing and make a tube "swingarm" for this. No sacrifice in strength but saving cost and probably weight.
I finished up both "A"s last night. I have to pick up some mild material for the struts and then order some 3/4" tubing for the swingarm. The front suspension is nearly complete.... I still have to fab up tie rods. I bought the tie rod kit from Northerntool so I'm going to cut that in half and then attach that to small pieces of the 5/8" chromoly tubing I'm using for tie rods so I'll have the heim style joints on the outside and regular blasty ball joints on the inside.
More thoughts!
I have nearly abandoned the thought of a 12V coil and a battery. Normal automobile coils run a negative broken trigger. In order words, the primary loop has +12VDC supplied to it the whole time to charge the primary loop. The secondary loop is triggered by breaking the ground to the chassis. This excites the secondary loop causing a large voltage spike which triggers the primary loop to have a HUGE voltage spike forcing electricity across the spark plug gap.
The blaster uses a positive break and the secondary loop is chassis grounded. This presents a serious problem with trying to use a automotive style coil. Really, an automotive style coil CAN have the positive leg broken as any break in the secondary coil wiring will cause the same voltage spike. The problem is, without constant 12VDC, the primary loop won't charge properly...
I am thinking about removing the lighting coil from the stator plate and replacing it with another source coil. Then taking and "frankensteining" two wiring harnesses together with two CDI's and two ignition coils hooked up in parallel feeding a single spark plug. This wouldn't double the voltage acorss the spark plug gap but it would double the amperage.
This way, both ignition systems use the same trigger coil for their signal so both would fire within milliseconds of each other and the spark plug would have twice as much "juice" when the time came.
Thoughts?
More thoughts!
I have nearly abandoned the thought of a 12V coil and a battery. Normal automobile coils run a negative broken trigger. In order words, the primary loop has +12VDC supplied to it the whole time to charge the primary loop. The secondary loop is triggered by breaking the ground to the chassis. This excites the secondary loop causing a large voltage spike which triggers the primary loop to have a HUGE voltage spike forcing electricity across the spark plug gap.
The blaster uses a positive break and the secondary loop is chassis grounded. This presents a serious problem with trying to use a automotive style coil. Really, an automotive style coil CAN have the positive leg broken as any break in the secondary coil wiring will cause the same voltage spike. The problem is, without constant 12VDC, the primary loop won't charge properly...
I am thinking about removing the lighting coil from the stator plate and replacing it with another source coil. Then taking and "frankensteining" two wiring harnesses together with two CDI's and two ignition coils hooked up in parallel feeding a single spark plug. This wouldn't double the voltage acorss the spark plug gap but it would double the amperage.
This way, both ignition systems use the same trigger coil for their signal so both would fire within milliseconds of each other and the spark plug would have twice as much "juice" when the time came.
Thoughts?
MORE THOUGHTS!
Dangerous stuff...... my head might catch fire at this rate.
I am ordering 3/4" .065" chromoly tubing for the swingarm and wheelie bar. Normal swingarm length is in the order of 18" of tubing between the pivot tube and shock ears. I'm thinking 3" minimum for this build. This means more chain needs to be purchased later but it also means I will be able to drag launch nearly wide open.
I'm thinking the wheelie bar needs to be an additional 4 feet out behind that. My plan is to make the wheelie bar removable for transport but out of the same material. I really like chromoly because it's strong AND light.
Dangerous stuff...... my head might catch fire at this rate.
I am ordering 3/4" .065" chromoly tubing for the swingarm and wheelie bar. Normal swingarm length is in the order of 18" of tubing between the pivot tube and shock ears. I'm thinking 3" minimum for this build. This means more chain needs to be purchased later but it also means I will be able to drag launch nearly wide open.
I'm thinking the wheelie bar needs to be an additional 4 feet out behind that. My plan is to make the wheelie bar removable for transport but out of the same material. I really like chromoly because it's strong AND light.
Sounds like I'm gonna have to figure out some heatsinks to mount on your head to keep it from overheating.
I like the idea of two ignition systems. But, how will you connect them to the plug? Join the wires before the boot?
I would probably make a spark plug boot with two wires joining together into one terminal.
I'm thinking twin ignition systems may actually be the easiest way to get enough juice into that plug... Plus, at some point, I might do a special head with twins spark plugs...
I also scored a seat for this beast. THANK YOU dakotademon!
I'm thinking twin ignition systems may actually be the easiest way to get enough juice into that plug... Plus, at some point, I might do a special head with twins spark plugs...
I also scored a seat for this beast. THANK YOU dakotademon!
That'd be interesting. I also have to talk to you about something similar to that, PM coming your way.
PM answered.
36' of 3/4" .065" chromoly tubing ordered. That's enough tubing for a 36" long swingarm (roughly +18") and a 6 foot long wheelie bar.
I probably won't actually do a +18" swingarm, I just wanted to order enough tubing to do one if I saw fit.
36' of 3/4" .065" chromoly tubing ordered. That's enough tubing for a 36" long swingarm (roughly +18") and a 6 foot long wheelie bar.
I probably won't actually do a +18" swingarm, I just wanted to order enough tubing to do one if I saw fit.
and I already have tracking confirmation on my tubing order! LMAO!
Considering the tubing will be here like Monday or Tuesday I think I'm going to hold off on the mild struts and just use the chromoly when it arrives. I have other things to work on anyway plus we're slated to have a hurricane here this weekend....
Considering the tubing will be here like Monday or Tuesday I think I'm going to hold off on the mild struts and just use the chromoly when it arrives. I have other things to work on anyway plus we're slated to have a hurricane here this weekend....
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