you will know on that pilot as soon as you fire it up..just be ready to kill it if need be.
When it rains it pours!
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you will know on that pilot as soon as you fire it up..just be ready to kill it if need be.
you will know on that pilot as soon as you fire it up..just be ready to kill it if need be.
I'm wiring in a tether cord kill switch.... as I run away it'll kill the ignition system
lol sure i would run it, i got nothing to lose. the crudeness of this build is one of its most attractive points to me, i love all these crazy ideas, this place gets boring as hell with the same ole song and dance lol. also im not calling ya out by any means, all i said was i was surprised to hear such strong opinions out of ya, ive seen you not say anything about lots of sh*t so to hear ya unleash like that i was surprised. as far as the other sh*t talking i dunno, wasnt there, dont know, dont care about it. no hate here, i love ur dragger, enjoy it.
Cool just a thought because thats what my buddy uses on his 450R a -1 swinger with added weight in the front to get that exact situation of power off the launch in his TT races......Also another thought I know you got the carb done and such but is it possable to set up an EFI system for a 2-stroke to run on it properly?????? Or is your carb big enough that it wont matter anyway....But does anyone make fuel injection for a 2-stroke in general.
I'm wiring in a tether cord kill switch.... as I run away it'll kill the ignition system
good plan!!!!!!!
LOL my plan all along was a tether kill cord but it might really come into use if I need to run away quickly!
Cleaning up porting tonight with the diamond burrs, sanding drums, and sand paper. Hopefully have some mostly finished cylinder pics tonight.
The piston should be here tomorrow so the cylinder will be going to the machine shop then for the bore job.
I'm going to try and work on the bottom end tonight as well, I need to get the bottom end prepped, assembled, and some studs made up for those intake side hold downs.
I found some M8 x 1.25 10.9 rated studs at ace hardware the other night I think I'm going to use those for the head studs and then double nut to keep vibrations from affecting the torque setting.
Cleaning up porting tonight with the diamond burrs, sanding drums, and sand paper. Hopefully have some mostly finished cylinder pics tonight.
The piston should be here tomorrow so the cylinder will be going to the machine shop then for the bore job.
I'm going to try and work on the bottom end tonight as well, I need to get the bottom end prepped, assembled, and some studs made up for those intake side hold downs.
I found some M8 x 1.25 10.9 rated studs at ace hardware the other night I think I'm going to use those for the head studs and then double nut to keep vibrations from affecting the torque setting.
That's something that was *originally* in my plan but time didn't allow. I was thinking about modifying a direct fuel injector off a PWC to a blaster head and have talked at length about it with others who've had similar ideas. The main problem with EFI is the fuel pressure needed to run it. You either end up with a automotive style fuel pump and battery system (which isn't HORRIBLE in itself but would spell disaster if it ran out of juice while waiting in the stage line) or some sort of mechanical stepper system with multiple fuel pumps or something run directly off the crankshaft and machined into the bottom end (I've thought about the oil pump boss hole for a high pressure mechanical rotary fuel pump but haven't been able to figure out how to make it happen yet) which would be fairly complicated and frought with problems to develop from scratch. What I'm going with *this time* is a fairly tried and true method recommend by a company which sells "midget" race setups for flat track and apparently their "peewee" class uses 250cc 2t engines running on methanol.
This is fairly simple in that it has no real "moving" parts... just a vacuum powered diaphragm fuel pump to pump it to "carburetor pressure" (about 3psi) and deliver it to a standard carburetor float bowl. Not much there to go wrong...
ummmmmm I don't think I did but I can later. This is just what I took before I hurried on to meet my wife for dinner. Wasn't really thinking about a top down view. Don't worry man, I didn't take the duration up any more, just smoothed the burr marks out! LOL
We're ready for a bore job and the bottom end to find its way together. I might make the bottom end thing happen tonight or tomorrow night
We're ready for a bore job and the bottom end to find its way together. I might make the bottom end thing happen tonight or tomorrow night
ummmmmm I don't think I did but I can later. This is just what I took before I hurried on to meet my wife for dinner. Wasn't really thinking about a top down view. Don't worry man, I didn't take the duration up any more, just smoothed the burr marks out! LOL
We're ready for a bore job and the bottom end to find its way together. I might make the bottom end thing happen tonight or tomorrow night
hell yeah... didnt look like you chamferred yet. are you going to wait till after its bored? how far it gotta go?
No... this is a VERY high RPM drag port. Combined with the pipe it should have virtually no power below 5k rpm and come ALIVE as it climbs over 7K peaking at 9K and climbing out to about 10K before the shift.
Tater, it needs to go out another .020" which will leave it nearly on its last life. Unfortunate but not a bad way for a stock cylinder to go!
Who made those rules? I certainly didn't.... I said this was a stock cylinder with some modifications, which it is.
Are you talking about the transfer "bumps" or are you talking about the aluminum bar stock welded on the intake side?
im talkin all of it lol...im just messin with ya homie, i wouldve done the same thing if i had a tig welder...i wanna do the cr reeds but u know how much room is in there...notta lol
Yeah I do know how much is in there. This is the second set.... the first set I blew through the side of my vito's intake window and played hell trying to fix it.
The trick to the CR reeds is to sand the sides of the reeds down until the pedals just barely fit and THEN work in intake window thin to accept the thinner reed cage. I didn't sand the reed cage on the one I put in the Vito's cylinder and that's why I blew though. It's all good in the hood now though.... I alumiwelded the side back up thicker than before (this was pre-tiggy) and went back for it.
The good news is, except for the ridiculous intake additions, that porting is all yamaha metal. If one didn't care to make boyesen's quite that large, you could port the triples that large, and the transfers out like that on any stock blasty cylinder.
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