Friggen got my first eBay invoice and of course my dumbass dog has to go and eat rabbit sh*t. Now I owe eBay $34 and since I had to get my dogs stomach pumped that costed $116, so now I'm totally broke.... Ugghhhhh.... Now this build will be at a temporary hault. And of course I win a Keihin PWK 28 mm carb on eBay and now I cant pay for it.... Wouldn't be suprised if the guy starts sh*tting on me, probably gunna leave me with some negative feedback.... FUGGG!!!
Triple_B's Rebuild
- Thread starter Triple_B
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just send him a message with your avitar in it and everything will be ok
Wish it was that easy.... If it wasnt for my STUPID dog X(X(X(X(
Well I just sold a few things on eBay, most of which are being shipped out today. Leaving me with a couple bucks to spend on my ebay invoice. So I can put that out of the picture now....
Ok so my dad just is refusing to help me. I wanted some assistance on removing the engine and front brakes but hes just ignoring me. So today I woke up bright an early to work on this thing. I finally got the FUGGIN Swingarm bolt out. Was one hell of a pain in the ass. I modified some tools to help me. Just a picture for fun on what I used:
Anway, after getting the swinger bolt out I took the chain off of the rear sprocket. I then realized that I needed to take the stator cover off to take the chain off of the front sprocket. Well since the stator cover has 2 stripped screws, I decided to go inside of the little vents of the stator cover that covers the sprocket with a ratchet and took the sprocket off. man was it gunked up but I took it out with ease and the chain came right out. So I got the engine out, finally. Then I went ahead and drained and took off the front brake lines. another PITA but I got it. I also decided im just going to leave the front hydros on the a-arms and take them off together for now. I dont have a pickle fork so I cant get the tie rod and lower a-arm joints out. I'm going back out later to work on it. Im hungry and sweaty. Here are pics:
^^^ LOL duznt look like I have a HUGE swingarm.... hehe
Anway, after getting the swinger bolt out I took the chain off of the rear sprocket. I then realized that I needed to take the stator cover off to take the chain off of the front sprocket. Well since the stator cover has 2 stripped screws, I decided to go inside of the little vents of the stator cover that covers the sprocket with a ratchet and took the sprocket off. man was it gunked up but I took it out with ease and the chain came right out. So I got the engine out, finally. Then I went ahead and drained and took off the front brake lines. another PITA but I got it. I also decided im just going to leave the front hydros on the a-arms and take them off together for now. I dont have a pickle fork so I cant get the tie rod and lower a-arm joints out. I'm going back out later to work on it. Im hungry and sweaty. Here are pics:
^^^ LOL duznt look like I have a HUGE swingarm.... hehe
i wouldnt have drained the hydro system. should have taken the calipers off and left the fluid in there. bleeding them is gonna b a biotch
no its really not that bad at all...if you know what your doing it shouldnt take more than 20 minutes.
shouldnt. when my friend converted to hydros we just couldnt get pressure in the system. ended up having to reverse bleed to get any pressure on the handle
The master cylinder gets air locked and it's difficult to pump fluid with an air bubbles stuck in there and difficult to get the air bubble out if it can't pump fluid.... Catch 22.
Draining the system is ok as long as you know how to bleed it next time. The trick is to reassemble and then pump the handle a bunch without bleeding. That'll help force the air to "bounce back" when you release the handle and it will pop back out of the hole the fluid is supposed to be in. Once you get your handle to feel any resistance at all (an air filled master cylinder will have to resistance at all, just kinda springy) then you can start bleeding. If all else fails, leave that thing overnight. The air bubbles will slowly bubble out and fluid will take it's place it just takes forever for the "natural" method to work...
Draining the system is ok as long as you know how to bleed it next time. The trick is to reassemble and then pump the handle a bunch without bleeding. That'll help force the air to "bounce back" when you release the handle and it will pop back out of the hole the fluid is supposed to be in. Once you get your handle to feel any resistance at all (an air filled master cylinder will have to resistance at all, just kinda springy) then you can start bleeding. If all else fails, leave that thing overnight. The air bubbles will slowly bubble out and fluid will take it's place it just takes forever for the "natural" method to work...
Ok Ive decided Im going to add black to this build. So now the a-arms will be black, swingarm silver, and the frame staying cobalt metallic blue. With black rims, Lots of aluminum and silver paint, And blue plastics and frame..... anything else in between....
Shes completely Stripped down! I finished yesterday. I cant for the life of me get the tie rod and lower a-arm joints out. I tried what Whitty21 said and use vice grips but I dont have any small vice grips. My dads going to go look for pickle forks on Monday while hes at work. I just disconnected the tie rod mounts on the calipers and took the a-arms off. Then I just took the steering stem connected to the tie rods right out of the frame. Unfortunately I'm not home now and wont be until late tonight so pictures will be up tonight. I used some engine degreaser to get all the gunky stuff off around where the engine mounts and washed it. We will be using Aircraft Paint stripper to get all of the factory powdercoat off. Frame will probably be in the process of primer and paint later this week. I'll keep you all updated.
Sorry for the delay on pics even though everyone has already seen a blaster frame:
ANYWAY
I had time today to TRY to get the inner axle nut off. I heated it up hot as a mofo and then pounded at it with a wrench and mini sledgehammer but it wont budge. I turned it vertical and dripped some chain lube on it and im gunna let it sit for a while. Idk what else to do after that.
I also had time to take my stock cylinder head off. Idk if you would call this carnage but the cylinder head is black. I was running the air box lid off without rejetting for about 3-4 rides until I found out I had to rejet. Explains why you should always read something slowly, carefully, and properly. Anyway, here are the pics of the day.
Anyone want to explain to me what those short bars are inside the cylinder?
ANYWAY
I had time today to TRY to get the inner axle nut off. I heated it up hot as a mofo and then pounded at it with a wrench and mini sledgehammer but it wont budge. I turned it vertical and dripped some chain lube on it and im gunna let it sit for a while. Idk what else to do after that.
I also had time to take my stock cylinder head off. Idk if you would call this carnage but the cylinder head is black. I was running the air box lid off without rejetting for about 3-4 rides until I found out I had to rejet. Explains why you should always read something slowly, carefully, and properly. Anyway, here are the pics of the day.
Anyone want to explain to me what those short bars are inside the cylinder?
Sorry for the delay on pics even though everyone has already seen a blaster frame:
ANYWAY
I had time today to TRY to get the inner axle nut off. I heated it up hot as a mofo and then pounded at it with a wrench and mini sledgehammer but it wont budge. I turned it vertical and dripped some chain lube on it and im gunna let it sit for a while. Idk what else to do after that.
I also had time to take my stock cylinder head off. Idk if you would call this carnage but the cylinder head is black. I was running the air box lid off without rejetting for about 3-4 rides until I found out I had to rejet. Explains why you should always read something slowly, carefully, and properly. Anyway, here are the pics of the day.
Anyone want to explain to me what those short bars are inside the cylinder?
do you mean the little rubber things that go in the fins? those reduce vibration and noise,
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