Had my blaster for a while now never had rear brakes....now I want them cuz i t don't stop well...its an 01 with the cable/caliper setup it is greased up just don't pull together
Any help???
Any help???
rear cable brakes no worky!!
- Thread starter blaster0187
- Start date
did you adjust the white disc while in there, it's supposed to be a "self adjuster",
but never works, the adjuster on the cable is just for that, adjusting the cable,
both internal, and external adjustments need constant attention
time for hydro's
but never works, the adjuster on the cable is just for that, adjusting the cable,
both internal, and external adjustments need constant attention
time for hydro's
I got mine working perfectly. Still got the parking brake too. Fiest of all pull off the side cover. Pull out the mechanism and moving pad. Make sure the o ring is greased and replace it. Now either use that white plastic cap or pitch it across the room and use a flat screwdriver and spin the inside of there. Tighten the cover. And testfit until you get as close to the disc as you can without rubbing. Now i was joking about pitching the cap. Go ahead and replace the cap. Bolt everything up and test. If all goes well you will be able to lockup the rear tires on command and now that its adjusted properly the self adjuster may work for a little while before becoming useless again
The rear brake works fine, the problem is most people dont maintain them very well. Its also not sealed very good and water gets in easily. combine the two and you get a rusty gritty brake caliper that wont work.
If the autoadjust mech is rusted up take it apart and clean it with a wire wheel or drop it in a container of malt vinegar for a few days. then clean it up with wire wheel. OR replace it with a new set of guts.
Get some new pads.
Clean up any corrosion on the caliper piston and grease the oring with synthetic brake grease
Use a synthetic brake grease or anti seize compound and lubebricate the moving components. I prefer the antiseize compound. Dont forget to lube the splines on the axle for the floating rotor. this helps the pads to wear evenly.Rreplace the OE cable with the motion pro shorty, and lube it well with light engine oil. (pour a bit of oil into a balloon and zip tie it to one end of the cable and allow the oil to run down the cable overnight)
the last step after adjusting the the caliper is to use threebond 1211 to seal up the two halves of the caliper to help keep water out.
every so often pop the cover off and inspect the caliper, clean it and make sure there is no water in there... also re-lube the cable.
The maintenace once you get it working properly take 10-15 minutes once a month or so.
If the autoadjust mech is rusted up take it apart and clean it with a wire wheel or drop it in a container of malt vinegar for a few days. then clean it up with wire wheel. OR replace it with a new set of guts.
Get some new pads.
Clean up any corrosion on the caliper piston and grease the oring with synthetic brake grease
Use a synthetic brake grease or anti seize compound and lubebricate the moving components. I prefer the antiseize compound. Dont forget to lube the splines on the axle for the floating rotor. this helps the pads to wear evenly.Rreplace the OE cable with the motion pro shorty, and lube it well with light engine oil. (pour a bit of oil into a balloon and zip tie it to one end of the cable and allow the oil to run down the cable overnight)
the last step after adjusting the the caliper is to use threebond 1211 to seal up the two halves of the caliper to help keep water out.
every so often pop the cover off and inspect the caliper, clean it and make sure there is no water in there... also re-lube the cable.
The maintenace once you get it working properly take 10-15 minutes once a month or so.
I would pass on the three hours of yearly maintenance and hook up a set of Awks rear hydraulic brakes. No welding and no worries. I run Banshee calipers on my front and rear. No comparison to the stock set-up.
considering u own or run a atv shop thats gotta be the worst advice ive heard u say yet . best bet is to convert to a hydro rear and forget there back there cable brakes are a pita and the maintenance isnt worth having them
hydro swap FTW!!! a rear hydro set up can be had off ebay for cheap if n=money is tight, if u got a bit more to spend everybody is happy with awks setup and the gsxr caliper POPS!!
Clearly they work well and properly maintained work well enough that Yamaha used them for 15 years, not a single service notice or recal in 15 years before switching in 03 For the 7 years I owned my blaster, once they were cleaned and fixed, they worked perfectly.
I have swapped several bikes over to hydro, even said in another post that it can be done for about $60 with parts from chinese or japanese dirtbike/Atv parts. But that was not recommended either.
obviously blaster owners need a super sport bike 2 or 3 pot caliper to stop a blaster doing 60mph . The fact that a manual caliper and a small single pot or twin pot can easily lock up the axle with slight pressure means nothing....
8-|
fact is not everyone can afford to buy a hydro kit or have the knowledge or tools to fab one up. everyone does have a stock caliper that will work just fine if it is properly adjusted and maintained... now how in the f**ck is that bad advice.
If people would learn how to clean, lube and adjust the caliper its a lot safer then so mmany blaster I see with no brakes
fact, if you dont know how to maintain them, you will spend more money to get them fixed by a shop than what the AWK boltone conversion cost.
Fact, replaceing brake shoes with drums 3 times due to mud cost about as much as the AWK rear bolt on, (beer+shoes+brake shardes in the flesh that sting for hours=much mucho!)
Fact, replaceing brake shoes with drums 3 times due to mud cost about as much as the AWK rear bolt on, (beer+shoes+brake shardes in the flesh that sting for hours=much mucho!)
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