KOR Engine Assembly Vids

[dksix]

I just thought I'd show this to someone how knows bearings. He is a heat treatment engineer at Jtekt North America Koyo trb division. He watched the video's, heard the temps and times that Ken is using and he said "that's the best way anyone could hope to install a set of bearings" also adding "most bearing damage is the result of improper installation". He said with the inner at 250 degree's the bearing could be locked up but the lock up would help to dissipate the heat to the other parts of the bearing which would loosen it back up. To damage the bearing Ken would have to heat the bearing to 250 degrees and while it was expanded, force it to spin at a high rpm without and lubrication. So basically, a heat treatment engineer for the company who made the bearing Ken is using says what Ken is doing has virtually 0 chance of damaging the bearing (0.00% chance).

 

[Awk08]

to get us back on track...........
part 4 is now posted in the original post


does anyone else besides me notice how absolutely surgically clean and well lit kens shop is ???

 

[sporty982000]

I just watched part 4.


A few questions. If I may ask, with out, trying to further ado any drama.


1- my local machine shop and my small engine class, I took in school and another in college. Always taught me to put a piston ring into the cylinder. and measure the gap there.

So, I was wondering, if this is something you just did not put into the video ? or is it just fine to just measure the ring gap on the rings. once they are on the piston ?

But since you likely do your own boring, you know the specs already and know where its at ?
2- I have always been taught to bring the piston in thru the top of the cylinder, versus the bottom of the cylinder. and I was wondering does it really matter ?
I had been taught the top, due to a higher increased chance of not getting the piston in straight and causing a ding or issue with the cylinder wall.
3- I know often on here, everyone stresses, chamfer on the ports and checking it and ensure no burrs are there. I didnt know if you didnt show or talk about this, due to might not wanting to reveal anything or ect. (meaning port work or size).

Nice job on the custom adapter for torq ! I think that would be a nice tool to be sold here to the blasty people here.


Again, my question are not drama related. I want to ensure if what I am doing is okay and that the differances are for the reasons I explained or just a different builder style.


And inase others have not seen my posts and ect. I rebuilt 3 blaster motors myself since june and 1 4 stroke atv top end and prior years have done rebuild too. Im not a pro. But I dont consider my self a one or two engine builder either.

The answers again to my questions, can help me be a better builder or that what I have done is okay and its just a prefence or different build style and some things left out, due to not wanting to reveal some stuff.


Thank you for posting the 4th video and doing it. Look forward to the final videos.


Sporty

 

[dksix]

Since the rod has to be on the crank first there isn't any way to put the piston in throught the top of the cylinder,is there? On a bike engine you have to put the piston on the rod and slide the cylinder over it, I thought.

 

[OConnor Racing]

1. The ring gap was measured in the cylinder as you described. This was not shown on camera. Instructions for measuring end gap are included with the piston.
2. I can’t see why it would make any difference how you install the piston. I always install the piston on the rod first when building two strokes so the piston has to come in from the bottom. The alternative would be to install the piston from the top and install the piston pin and clip while balancing the cylinder. It’s doable but a pain and may require more than two hands.
3. The porting, bore, hone and chamfering were not included in the vid but can be seen in other videos I’ve made. I tried to stick with the assembly in this series.

 

[sporty982000]

1. The ring gap was measured in the cylinder as you described. This was not shown on camera. Instructions for measuring end gap are included with the piston.
2. I can’t see why it would make any difference how you install the piston. I always install the piston on the rod first when building two strokes so the piston has to come in from the bottom. The alternative would be to install the piston from the top and install the piston pin and clip while balancing the cylinder. It’s doable but a pain and may require more than two hands.
3. The porting, bore, hone and chamfering were not included in the vid but can be seen in other videos I’ve made. I tried to stick with the assembly in this series.

Thanks for the reply.
And yes, its a bit of a juggling act for me. cuz i install thru the top. So, the next time, im going to do it like that.


thanks


Sporty

 

[dksix]

Not that it pertains to assembly but do you port before or after you bore the cylinder?

 

[OConnor Racing]

I port before I bore and check / adjust the ports before I hone.

 

[Awk08]

all thermal expansion vs. puller method of the bearings installation has been deleted.
either are acceptable, use which ever.
i did leave a few informative posts about it, if any of you would like to further discuss it, start a thread on it.
this purposeful derailing of threads ends here.
warnings followed by infractions are next.

 

[Awk08]

part 5 added to original post.

 

[Blonder Blaster]

Your welcome anytime!!!

 

[OConnor Racing]

DO IT!!!!!!!!! DON'T BE A DOUCHE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I need help in the shop damn it!!!!!!! I trust ya.................kind of...........QA will bust ya if you screw up.

 

[Triplecrown421]

I just finished rebuilding a friends motor, had bad shift forks and other problems. i heated up an old crank bearing and used it to heat up the main bearings to drop the crank in and close the cases. Worked flawlessly and have never had such an easy time at it!!!!!
Thanks ken!

 

[joeak47]

I would put Ken's method in the "Slicker than snot on a door knob" category!!!

It works! Plain and simple!

No over analyzing,anal, theoretical bullsh*t.

Just crisp and simple.

No need to involve quantom mechanics,heat and pressure theories, or crank puller elongation ratios,etc.
Two simple words...

It works.

 

[Awk08]

so, above we saw the oconnor "slicker than snot" method of assembly,
i figured it would be helpful to also show how "NOT TO DO IT"
pay paricular attention to the hammer crank install method, the custom 2x4 bearing installer and excessive amounts of case bond used ...................

so glad we can't understand his instructions !!!!!

 

[joeak47]

OK....
I just went and threw up!

I've never seen that video before. I'm at a loss for words...I'm stuck.

I can say this... He should have spent less money on the cool sun glasses and jail house tattoos and applied it to a quality shop manual.

Why spend money on a 3 MM vito's cranks,bore job,wiseco piston,porting,head modifications,etc, only to beat it in together with a hammer???
REALLY???

This proves two things...

Alot of people have more money than brains,and...
common sense isn't all that common.

That 2" ribbon of case sealant was enough for about...25 engines.

 

[sicivicdude]

I think it's interesting to note that this is the same quad:

No unusual noises and running pretty strong.

Not attributing that to his.....er.... installation methods but more to the hardiness of the blaster in general. You really can beat it together with a hammer and it still run! I:I

 

[blasterBruce]

Well I'm glad That I built my Motor Myself in my Living room With Inferior Tools and Did not have to beat on anything with a Hammer !

 

[dksix]

I'm not going to pick apart anyone who goes into it and gets it done with what's on hand. As its been said before, a professional shop should be held to a higher standard. On mine I've spray painted stuff without even washing the dirt but on someone else's parts that I'm being paid to refinish, they are never touched without gloved hands after they go into the media cabinet. The DIY'er shouldn't be the scale at which a professional measures himself by.

 

[slickerthanyou]

I think it's interesting to note that this is the same quad:

Yamaha Blaster Project.. Now with 34mm PJ Keihin and 14T Front sprocket... - YouTube

No unusual noises and running pretty strong.

Not attributing that to his.....er.... installation methods but more to the hardiness of the blaster in general. You really can beat it together with a hammer and it still run! I:I

WOT throttle sounded ok, the rest was crap, due to jetting issues that guy obviously has no clue how to do either. He was being easy on it also, you ride mine wot your wheels are in the air! Maybe we should email him a link to this page!