improving Velocity!!?!!!
- Thread starter Triplecrown421
- Start date
May not look safe but, Knowing the engineering aptitude<<<< (wow didn't know I could use big words like that) of the canadian crew, I'm sure it's all good! and this is a "TEST" lets not forget!
Yeah its only a (test) to See What Adding material to The intake to (Straighten) the Air flow to the piston Will do , I'm Hoping It Makes the Throttle Response Crisper And Maybe A Little More Torque in the Low-mid Range , but that's just My Hopes haha
Yeah, you are right, THE ANTI-PORTING!
Well, you don't know unless you try.
Well, today it was hot, DANG HOT! Which us Canadians don't handle too well.
So after a mid-day bike run, as night cooled down I settled into tearing Triplecrown's bike apart and digging into his intake port again.
This was clearly against his wishes, but I WANTED MORE! More epoxy that is.
I cleaned up the cylinder and then sandblasted the intake port again to "give it tooth".
I mixed up some more JB weld and Permatex Steel Putty and crammed another ounce or so into the intake.
The tubes of JB weld are 1 ounce each and the Permatex Steel Putty was 1 ounce and I have used about 80-90% of each,
just so you have an idea of the volume added, about 2.5+ ounces of this stuff.
Taped up the reeds for protection and used them on the cage as a mold for the epoxy to fit close to about half the reed petal length.
The port divider and both port floor & ceiling is built up as well. The pocket where the petal screws go is filled up except where the screws go.
The whole goal is to keep volume small.
I might have to open the boost port up a bit tomorrow when everything cures, but all in all it looks pretty good.
I hope Triplecrown gets some pictures before we bolt it up and subject it to the ass-dyno.
Looking for some good mid range to go with the top end power we had.
Steve
Looking forward to the pics after it cures , Hey best did you see the Parts blasty I picked up for Cheap ?
i was looking at it that piston that came out of it isiss ROUGH kinda weard how it broke in two places. looks like it could be built
Yeah that piston was the worst I've seen come out of a blaster , dude said he cleaned the carb and it ran like a year ago hahaha
Hey, Bruce and Triple, try to stay on topic will ya!
Got some picts. Hot day out here today, went riding for much of it but spent an hour or so on this.
This is what the cured epoxy looked like:
And another one, cuz I ain't a great photographer:
Yuck eh? (us Candians say that, "eh?", a lot)
Well I gave it a bit of a buzz, opened up the boost port mess a bit with the Dremel.
Filed the floor flat, it was lumpy. Smoothed out everything with some sandpaper on a finger.
Tried to get everything symmetrical. That is important.
This is not my engine and it is a test and even if it works wonderfully it will be coming apart again so I didn't waste a lot of time on it.
Some of you guys have done works of art on your ports!
DANG I PUT THE BOOST PORT ON THE BOTTOM! I think we can fix this...
The bridge is completely original, no metal off it. there was some port matching done but very little aluminum removed.
Intake port window was raised 1mm earlier, copied from the DT200. I don't think I'd recommend this.
Rings might drop in the window. I have to look at this closer.
Got some picts. Hot day out here today, went riding for much of it but spent an hour or so on this.
This is what the cured epoxy looked like:
And another one, cuz I ain't a great photographer:
Yuck eh? (us Candians say that, "eh?", a lot)
Well I gave it a bit of a buzz, opened up the boost port mess a bit with the Dremel.
Filed the floor flat, it was lumpy. Smoothed out everything with some sandpaper on a finger.
Tried to get everything symmetrical. That is important.
This is not my engine and it is a test and even if it works wonderfully it will be coming apart again so I didn't waste a lot of time on it.
Some of you guys have done works of art on your ports!
DANG I PUT THE BOOST PORT ON THE BOTTOM! I think we can fix this...
The bridge is completely original, no metal off it. there was some port matching done but very little aluminum removed.
Intake port window was raised 1mm earlier, copied from the DT200. I don't think I'd recommend this.
Rings might drop in the window. I have to look at this closer.
nice try with the boost port, I can see your flange that bolts the Cyl To bottom end, good try to fool us though
so i broke an axle in the civic and was working on that the other day. The old man decided to take the cyl off and do our second coat. looks much better!!!!!
compaired to stock
we did the mild port work to this cyl months ago just port matched and cleaned up the transfers and raised the exhaust a bit over 2mm. We also raised the intake ports aswell but i dont remember exactly how much\? when doing this we didnt want to hog into the ports too much, had the velocity theory in mind. I have been running this setup for awhile now and without a base gasket.
stock
cleaned up the lower side transfer ports but didnt do any work inside..
remember i did this like 5 months ago and have had much seat time on it. when doing this test im not changing a single thing other then packing the intake port
compaired to stock
we did the mild port work to this cyl months ago just port matched and cleaned up the transfers and raised the exhaust a bit over 2mm. We also raised the intake ports aswell but i dont remember exactly how much\? when doing this we didnt want to hog into the ports too much, had the velocity theory in mind. I have been running this setup for awhile now and without a base gasket.
stock
cleaned up the lower side transfer ports but didnt do any work inside..
remember i did this like 5 months ago and have had much seat time on it. when doing this test im not changing a single thing other then packing the intake port
notice how much we added this time, right to the gasket of the reed cage. i should have got a picture from the inside with the reeds in it would really show the fine work
It does look as if the intake charge would be much more direct, I think that's the word I'm looking for eh? So you are looking to increase low/mid with little top end loss right?
I did notice the one side (right) looks as though the epoxy isn't sticking to the side??
I did notice the one side (right) looks as though the epoxy isn't sticking to the side??
it turned out pretty good. yea that side did have some flakes that might of came loose when i cleaned it up. im confident it will stay togeather enough to get some rpms out of'er. yea looking to get abit better throttle response a better mid range top end should stay about the same but we will see I:I. mannnn used your leak tester today worked amazing and makes the job of testing leaks simple and quick, thank you again
Goal is NO decrease of top end power. Want it to work like the DT200 on top end, which in theory is 32hp on the stock ports and carb.
But what we are really looking for out of this is mid-range grunt that the DT200 doesn't have even with the powervalve.
The DT200 without the YPVS powervalve has a powerband like a light switch, and only mildly better with the YPVS.
Pretty weak in mid range but explodes in tire spinning fury as it comes on pipe. We want to fill in the weak part.
The epoxy is sticking well. Sandblasting gave it some grip.
I think what you are seeing Slick is the aluminum plates glued into each side to take up volume on the sides of the reed cage.
We originally debated putting in a full length side plates like this:
However there is some spill to the sides of the reeds and we didn't didn't want them shrouded so we went with this profile for the side plates:
That profile that you see on the back plate is the actual box port shape, Neil closely fitted it.
The first (top) third of the pedals hardly moves so I brought the walls very close to it to take up volume.
Also brought the bridge out closer to the reeds and kept it rounded for volume.
I like these two photos, the stock ports on top and the epoxied ones on bottom.
You can see the 1mm raise of the port, which I don't know if I recommend yet,
and you can see how the "tunnel" or lip at the top is about 2mm deeper.
Man, I have been away all day and I can't wait to hear how this thing turned out.
The thing is sitting in my garage, do you think my neighbours would mind if I took it out for a 1:30 am ride?
Goal is NO decrease of top end power. Want it to work like the DT200 on top end, which in theory is 32hp on the stock ports and carb.
But what we are really looking for out of this is mid-range grunt that the DT200 doesn't have even with the powervalve.
The DT200 without the YPVS powervalve has a powerband like a light switch, and only mildly better with the YPVS.
Pretty weak in mid range but explodes in tire spinning fury as it comes on pipe. We want to fill in the weak part.
The epoxy is sticking well. Sandblasting gave it some grip.
I think what you are seeing Slick is the aluminum plates glued into each side to take up volume on the sides of the reed cage.
We originally debated putting in a full length side plates like this:
However there is some spill to the sides of the reeds and we didn't didn't want them shrouded so we went with this profile for the side plates:
That profile that you see on the back plate is the actual box port shape, Neil closely fitted it.
The first (top) third of the pedals hardly moves so I brought the walls very close to it to take up volume.
Also brought the bridge out closer to the reeds and kept it rounded for volume.
I like these two photos, the stock ports on top and the epoxied ones on bottom.
You can see the 1mm raise of the port, which I don't know if I recommend yet,
and you can see how the "tunnel" or lip at the top is about 2mm deeper.
Man, I have been away all day and I can't wait to hear how this thing turned out.
The thing is sitting in my garage, do you think my neighbours would mind if I took it out for a 1:30 am ride?
Go for the 1:30 am Ride ! , you said you had some room in the yard right haha
Similar threads
