You better fix the cap before it fixes you.
Air leaks produce lean mixtures and as we all know lean mixtures cost $$$$$$I:I
How To Remove Your TORS (88-02 models)
- Thread starter jlsparky7
- Start date
You better fix the cap before it fixes you.
Air leaks produce lean mixtures and as we all know lean mixtures cost $$$$$$I:I
Ok, i'm very unsure of this but here goes nothing:
I On my 01 blaster My carb keeps dumping fuel into my engine. I guess my crank seal is bad because i emptied my clutch oil and out came all the fuel. I only noticed this when i tried to start it.... fuel came dumping out a gaping hole in my header...
So, i'm in the process of taking the TORS off to clean the carb... should i leave it off? And i can't even figure how to get it off anyway...
(Quick replies are greatly appreciated)
I On my 01 blaster My carb keeps dumping fuel into my engine. I guess my crank seal is bad because i emptied my clutch oil and out came all the fuel. I only noticed this when i tried to start it.... fuel came dumping out a gaping hole in my header...
So, i'm in the process of taking the TORS off to clean the carb... should i leave it off? And i can't even figure how to get it off anyway...
(Quick replies are greatly appreciated)
you cant really 'take it off' unless you have the cap, idle screw and cable replacement set-up. you can unhook the wires and other components and it will work fine. did you read the dyi?
Ok I edited this post after reading through it, I skipped to the end after about 20 pages cause I got sick of going through pages and pages of the same question asking what the TORS is and so on...
Anyway you drill straight into the carb through the idle screw hole? I was about to post a pic asking what that hole was for until I stumbled on this thread and realized that's where the idle screw usually goes. I just wanted to verify with someone that's done it before but that made the most sense to me. I had the pic right side up but damn photobucket doesn't like to apply my changes. It shows it right side up on my profile but oh well I guess.
Anyway you drill straight into the carb through the idle screw hole? I was about to post a pic asking what that hole was for until I stumbled on this thread and realized that's where the idle screw usually goes. I just wanted to verify with someone that's done it before but that made the most sense to me. I had the pic right side up but damn photobucket doesn't like to apply my changes. It shows it right side up on my profile but oh well I guess.
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ok so im hoping this helps someone out there last summer i bought my 1989 yamaha blaster and honestly it was in really nice shape for the year i couldnt believe it no rust ant where and grease in all the fittings told me they took good care of it and probly hardly ever rode it well the bike would run great but wouldnt idle i chalked it up to the ignition key was bypassed (previose owner lost it) and did nothing about it well a couple days ago i started cleaning my carb and trying to figure out why it wouldnt idle upon reading this thread i narrowed it down to the tors system and started poking around did exactly what he said in this thread and nothing the bike would idle out of control so this is what i did the only thing i removed to make my bike idle was the sensor inside the throttle houseing cut it off and jumped the two wires and unplugged the boot conecter going to the tors unit on top of the carb turned the pilot screw out 11/4 turns and the idle screw on the tors went out 5/12turns and now it runs great real good idle thanks again for posting this thread it really helped me
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okay so I done the same thing you did and mine wont start now , how did you fix it
What year is yours? pre 03 and 03+ are different methods. Little more info would help.
i've never seen any vids or threads that suggest cutting just grounds (black wires) ????
88-02....unplug the brain under the hood (3 wire plug)
03+.... cut and splice the (paired together) yellow/blk stripe and black wires at the throttle switch and carb.
mine is a 95 blaster, I followed the video on you tube posted by username PokednStroked1030. Ive done about everything that I could and still no spark. I've tested the coil the stator all my grounds are good, I tested the kill switch and the igntion. All seem to be good. The key thing behind the flywheel is good. I will explain what happened. My son went threw some water with it and got stuck. He got it out flipped it upside to let the water drain out and sat for a bit. Put it back down and it started. He said he then drove up the hill and shut it off waiting for a buddy and after that it wouldnt fire back up. He bought it home and we tried starting it , I would start for a split second and shut off, After doing this several times it back fired a few times and now nothing. It turns over I guess you can say but not getting a spark. I removed the tors following that video and my brother tested about everything with his ohm tester and we cant figure it out. By the way I'm a woman and my son is sixteen. We have several quads and I have learned over the years how to do simple things but this has got us stumped
On both the handle bar kill switch ans the key switch there is a black/white wire. Unplug both of those and see if you have spark. If you do then plug one at a time back in to determine which is faulty. If I'm reading the wireing diagram they both go to ground to "kill" the spark.
You say the flywheel "key" is good, I presume you've had it off trying to diagnose the problem? No water inside left stator cover?
Next check ALL wire connections that they are clean of dirt or corrosion. Make sure they are tight when you plug them back together. Adding a bit of dielectric grease will help make it water resistant and less likely to corrode. Where the coil mounts to the frame must be clean, bare metal, again bit of dielectric grease will help. Next remove spark plug boot from wire, trim 1/4" off wire, reinstall plug cap with dielectric grease. This gives cap clean wire to contact to. Install BRAND NEW PLUG (might want to put this at begining of list) .
Again presuming, you said all things ohmed out, you used values from repair manual?
At this point if you have no spark, you need to try a different CDI box as they can't be tested.
Hopefully you either have a Clymers or have downloaded the repair manual.
Also going to give you some GREEN for being such a good mother. I:I
Let us know how it goes.
You say the flywheel "key" is good, I presume you've had it off trying to diagnose the problem? No water inside left stator cover?
Next check ALL wire connections that they are clean of dirt or corrosion. Make sure they are tight when you plug them back together. Adding a bit of dielectric grease will help make it water resistant and less likely to corrode. Where the coil mounts to the frame must be clean, bare metal, again bit of dielectric grease will help. Next remove spark plug boot from wire, trim 1/4" off wire, reinstall plug cap with dielectric grease. This gives cap clean wire to contact to. Install BRAND NEW PLUG (might want to put this at begining of list) .
Again presuming, you said all things ohmed out, you used values from repair manual?
At this point if you have no spark, you need to try a different CDI box as they can't be tested.
Hopefully you either have a Clymers or have downloaded the repair manual.
BTW
WELCOME
to the
DIRT PILE !!!
I:I
I:I
WELCOME
to the
DIRT PILE !!!
I:I
I:IAlso going to give you some GREEN for being such a good mother. I:I
Let us know how it goes.
okay so still nothing, I disconnected those wires that you said and nothing, clean the frame under the coil and cleaned the coil off, cut the spark plug wire back. Not a think worked. Im wondering since I took the tors off, do I need to do something with the throttle cable now, cause someone said something about drilling a hole in the carb or reattaching the throttle cable directly to something else. I have no clue. When I took the tors off I cut the wires and the switch thing that was coming off the top of the carb and someone else said I had to leave that and then cross the yellow and black wires together for it to run. All I know is Im about to push it into the river,lol.
tors removal..........
88-02 blasters....unplug the brain under the hood (3 wire plug)
03+ blasters.... cut and splice the (paired together) yellow/blk stripe and black wires at the throttle switch and carb.
if still nothing, it has to be the stator or CDI, stator can be tested, either with ohm meter to check specs in the manual,
or possibly check for electrical pulse across the
red/wht and black/red wires coming out of stator at the connections right above the shifter
test each seperately to ground also < all while kicking it over
also, check the orange wire at the coil for pulse to ground, if none, your problem is upstream,
if pulse, the coil/wire is the problem
here's the 88-02 electrical troubleshooting
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/ignition-troubleshooting-88-02-a-46159/
and 03+
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/ignition-troubleshooting-03-a-46160/
i like this ignition only wiring diagram though, it eliminates the lighting circuts from the mix......
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/easy-wiring-diagram-you-42927/
tons of links all in one...
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/troubleshooting-maintenance-guide-30347/
88-02 blasters....unplug the brain under the hood (3 wire plug)
03+ blasters.... cut and splice the (paired together) yellow/blk stripe and black wires at the throttle switch and carb.
if still nothing, it has to be the stator or CDI, stator can be tested, either with ohm meter to check specs in the manual,
or possibly check for electrical pulse across the
red/wht and black/red wires coming out of stator at the connections right above the shifter
test each seperately to ground also < all while kicking it over
also, check the orange wire at the coil for pulse to ground, if none, your problem is upstream,
if pulse, the coil/wire is the problem
here's the 88-02 electrical troubleshooting
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/ignition-troubleshooting-88-02-a-46159/
and 03+
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/ignition-troubleshooting-03-a-46160/
i like this ignition only wiring diagram though, it eliminates the lighting circuts from the mix......
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/easy-wiring-diagram-you-42927/
tons of links all in one...
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/troubleshooting-maintenance-guide-30347/
I have a 92 blaster and I literally just rebuilt it today and got a new top end and carb with the tors eliminator kit but I'm not getting spark I think I did all the steps to bypass it I think I'm not sure i put a new spark plug in it and fresh premium gas and air filter is clean but I'm not getting spark I need help before my blaster blew I was getting spark prefect but eve sense I put the new carb on no spark ? Wtf
Will a malfunctioning tors system cause the machine to emmit syptoms if running rich? And not achiving full rpms?
limits the rpm's. not sure of a #, but that "blah, blah, blah" you mentioned sounds like it
Tors is remived properly still same syptoms.
Full throttle to start
Wants to stall
RPMs are limited
Thankyou everyone! Found the issue! Header pipe has a squirrel nest in it! Going to burn it out tomorrow bike runs great with no header lol thanks again
