How To Remove Your TORS (88-02 models)
- Thread starter jlsparky7
- Start date
It will not run well without a header for long, do not try it you will end up with a toasted piston due to a lean mix!
Of course, just needed a conclusive test that it really was the pipe. Any ideas on cleaning it out?
i used an electrical fishtape with a hook on the end, keep reaming it in and out until the major ball of nest is broken up and out, then blow out with a compressor.
a coat hanger should work too
I have had a 1991 blaster for about 7 years now and although it still runs great I recently bought a 2000 blaster because my 11 year old son has basically assumed ownership of the 1991. Although I rarely rode the 1991, it still was nice to have and has plenty of power to haul me around since I am only 5'8" and 150lbs. I got the 2000 for the same price I paid for the 1991 7 years ago($500) but knew when I bought it that it needed a little attention. The previous owner said it just got 'rebuilt' (new piston/rings) but it wouldn't idle at all and you had to keep feathering the throttle to keep it running. Even though the engine could be kept running, it would constantly try to cut out/stall while riding it around so I started Google searches and came across this thread. Today I read through all 15 pages (14 of which should be deleted, IMO anyways) and found myself on an emotional rollercoaster considering all the back/forth you can do this/you can't do that opinions this thread has plastered all through it 
I went from wanting to eliminate the TORS system (which I found is in fact still on the 1991 and working flawlessly, BTW) to not knowing if I should by all the "bad" replies in this thread of losing spark/etc back to SCREW IT what do I have to lose!?! I concentrated on post #1 of the thread (one of the only posts that really need to be concentrated on if you have the earlier (88-2002) blasters and I just eliminated the TORS system by unplugging the three plugs explained. I got the blaster started up and it idles great and runs fine now so I am posting this novel now just to reassure someone who may be in the same situation as I found myself in and to say that YES this can absolutely work to correct a poorly running/non-idling blaster since it is the only thing I had to do to mine to fix the problems I was having. I hope this reply helps to convince someone to give it a try if they find themselves on the fence after reading all 15 pages like I did. Worst case, you can simply just plug all three plug locations back together if it doesn't seem to help you since NO you don't have to cut ANY wires (at least on the earlier 88-2002?) blasters.
Thanks to the original poster who started this thread and offered this information
I went from wanting to eliminate the TORS system (which I found is in fact still on the 1991 and working flawlessly, BTW) to not knowing if I should by all the "bad" replies in this thread of losing spark/etc back to SCREW IT what do I have to lose!?! I concentrated on post #1 of the thread (one of the only posts that really need to be concentrated on if you have the earlier (88-2002) blasters and I just eliminated the TORS system by unplugging the three plugs explained. I got the blaster started up and it idles great and runs fine now so I am posting this novel now just to reassure someone who may be in the same situation as I found myself in and to say that YES this can absolutely work to correct a poorly running/non-idling blaster since it is the only thing I had to do to mine to fix the problems I was having. I hope this reply helps to convince someone to give it a try if they find themselves on the fence after reading all 15 pages like I did. Worst case, you can simply just plug all three plug locations back together if it doesn't seem to help you since NO you don't have to cut ANY wires (at least on the earlier 88-2002?) blasters.Thanks to the original poster who started this thread and offered this information
Omg thank you I'm an idiot the wire were cut already I had the brain plugged in and couldn't understand why it wouldn't rev
Ok, so i have a 2004 yamaha blaster and this past week it hasnt been able to run it turns on and when i give it gas it will just shut off, ive tried taking off the TORS "brain" but for some reason its not there , it has never been there i never had noticed this until now since i hadnt had a problem with it . Any solutions? What should i do ? Is it the TORS or something else?
You need to follow the 03-06 tors delete. It Involves spliceing some wires to trick the cdi into thinking its hooked up and working.
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/03-06-tors-removal-diy.41973/
That should get you where you need to be. Also unplug the parking brake sensor. Follow the wire down from up by the clutch perch, and unplug it at the connector. Its a known problem causer as well.
Thanks for the reply i have tried splicing the wire as the forum says buy no luck and blaster wont turn on , what do i do is there any other way ?
you spliced the yellow/black stripe wire to the solid black coming directly our of the CDI/TORS box ?
follow the troubleshooting..........http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/ignition-troubleshooting-03.46160/
Yes i have done that and still no luck, it will just turn as long as i give it gas moderatly and if i give it full gas it will turn off or if i switch to any gear, it makes a crackleing noise , any ideas ?
sounds like you still have a tors problem ?
check the wiring, yellow/blck to black wire, not black/white stripe ?
flywheel woodruff key has sheared and allowed the flywheel to rotate out of time ?
check the keyway has flywheel and crankshaft slots aligned
reeds good ?
new plug ?
I have a 2004 blaster and tors is eliminated, but i just got a 99 blaster non running, needs top end which i can do myself, did it on my 04. the 99 seems to have the tors still on because that little black box on first image is still there. Question is, if i eliminate the tors as you guys showed above, i can still run it with the same carb that is on there with that gray thing on top of it right?
Also, if you guys can help, oil injection has been removed as it seems but the oil pump is still there with 2 little hoses sticking out not connected to anything, will it run like that with no issues? What should i do? Thx in advance.
Get a oil block off plate. How to remove pump and install plate.
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-install-oil-injection-block-off-kit.681/page-5
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-install-oil-injection-block-off-kit.681/page-5
