would a +4 swingarm be ok for trails and whoops, because all mine wants to do is stand up on its back wheels
extended swingarm
- Thread starter motoman159
- Start date
Common Physics says it should, it will put the center of gravity, and rider weight, further away from the point of propulsion. Although, if you ride a lot of technical trails, it may make it tougher to pull the front end up to get over obstacles.
most of my riding is in sandy strait roads (besides my front yard) i just want to be able to launch hard so i dont wheelie everytime... this is what happens.. (watch the beggining) and this was leaning forward
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Have you considered moving up sprocket size? Its cheaper than a new swing arm. Unless you're just dead set on a new swinger.
Never know unless you try. Some can tell you easy, some can tell you don't do it. I would think the most critical part would be to make sure you get it square so it doesn't track funny and so the chain doesn't wanna ride side saddle in the sprocket. Even if you measure it square, you add heat to aluminum by welding, it can twist, stretch or shrink pretty randomly...resulting in a waste of time. Good luck and let us know if you try it.
porting with either a stroker or bigbore or both and everything else that goes along with that.
i was looking into a 3mm stroker... i think with my .80 over bore thatd be nice, i wanna 250 kit..
My son has a +3 and about 30hp (DT200) and I gotta say I like it.
I am running a 45-50hp motocross 250 and I am finally convinced the stock length is too short.
Drag race starts are brutal, but I like the ability to loft the wheels at any speed.
His +3 may be slightly long, I am going to opt for +2 on mine.
Anyone try cutting the 1/4" plate just behind the box section and adding 2"?
I am tempted...
I am running a 45-50hp motocross 250 and I am finally convinced the stock length is too short.
Drag race starts are brutal, but I like the ability to loft the wheels at any speed.
His +3 may be slightly long, I am going to opt for +2 on mine.
Anyone try cutting the 1/4" plate just behind the box section and adding 2"?
I am tempted...
I did mine plus 3 . I read a thread about someone running a 4 on the trails and wanting to go down to 3 for better turning on the trails.
Another opinion FWIW:
I'm building another +4 right now. We've run stock, +2 and +4 on our very tight trails and the +4 is the quickest. Our mudlites really hook up in our terrain and an aggressive rider needs to keep the front tires planted to turn. The shorter arms want to push the front off the track accelerating out of turns.
Depends on where and how you ride. Also depends on your size. If you're small, a short arm is OK cuz your weight will be forward ... if you're 6'4" , 260lbs with long legs & arms your ass will be by the grab bar and ya wheelie at the touch of the throttle
I'm building another +4 right now. We've run stock, +2 and +4 on our very tight trails and the +4 is the quickest. Our mudlites really hook up in our terrain and an aggressive rider needs to keep the front tires planted to turn. The shorter arms want to push the front off the track accelerating out of turns.
Depends on where and how you ride. Also depends on your size. If you're small, a short arm is OK cuz your weight will be forward ... if you're 6'4" , 260lbs with long legs & arms your ass will be by the grab bar and ya wheelie at the touch of the throttle
I had strokedtater build me a +4. I've run it on the track n love it, on the trails I ride it's still pretty nimble considering the Width and length. Total is +6 wider than stock and +5 total in length. For serious trail riding I'd recommend a +3. Keeps wheels down and still very maneuverable.
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