engine parts question

beaten blaster

New Member
Oct 7, 2012
272
2
18
upstate ny( plattsburgh)
ok im looking to start buying parts to rebuild my motor myself when the time comes.(last time a yamaha shop did it for me) i am looking to buy
1.leak tester
2.compression tester
3.flywheel puller and holder
4. case splitter
5. anything else?
my question is what are you guys using for brand names and where to buy..does not need to be TOP grade but not cheap too..thanks everyone jason
 
you plan on using a tusk crank puller, or using the thermal expansion method shown in the Oconnor assembly vid...no puller needed ?
 
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ATV Flywheel Pullers | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC Motion Pro Clutch Holding Tool | ATV | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC Motion Pro Crankcase Separator | ATV | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC Tusk Crankcase Splitter/Separator | ATV | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC

Tusk brand looks to be more economical. If you look around there are DIYs on how to make a flywheel/clutch tool, how to spilt, install crank without special tools or with home made . I know Blaner had a DIY. Only tool that is cost prohibitive to make is flywheel puller.
 
If you have an impact gun, a flywheel holder isn't really needed ... You could save a few bucks! Also you might wanna think about gettin a crank installer tool, unless you know of a safe, effective way to install the crank. I bought both my case splitter and crank installer tools from rockymountainatvmc for $120 ( $60 a piece ) ... Both made by Tusk, they were the cheapest I could find and had great results using both.
 
ok im looking to start buying parts to rebuild my motor myself when the time comes.(last time a yamaha shop did it for me) i am looking to buy
1.leak tester
2.compression tester
3.flywheel puller and holder
4. case splitter
5. anything else?
my question is what are you guys using for brand names and where to buy..does not need to be TOP grade but not cheap too..thanks everyone jason


i just took apart a blaster engine today and only thing i needed was a flywheel puller , no need for a case splitter tool , and for a leak tester if you do it right no need to worry about leaks .

just my 2 cents
 
i just took apart a blaster engine today and only thing i needed was a flywheel puller , no need for a case splitter tool , and for a leak tester if you do it right no need to worry about leaks .

just my 2 cents

Not trying to be a dick, but on the contrary a leakdown tester is a must-have tool for an engine build. Just because you stick a new gasket or seal in place doesn't necessarily mean the two surfaces will seal airtightly. A piece of old gasket left behind, overtorquing, improper or too little sealant on the case halves, a nick to a gasket surface caused by a wayward gasket scraper, a crankshaft seal beaten crookedly into place with a socket, a popped garter spring in a seal...all these factors and more can cause an airleak that you'll likely never find without a leak tester.

You can build your own leakdown tester with basic parts from the local hardware store and a guide found on here.

Also, be sure to use only OEM Yamaha or Cometic gaskets in the engine. Green paper base gaskets are a recipe for disaster. Just ask Awk and many others who know firsthand...
 
Not trying to be a dick, but on the contrary a leakdown tester is a must-have tool for an engine build. Just because you stick a new gasket or seal in place doesn't necessarily mean the two surfaces will seal airtightly. A piece of old gasket left behind, overtorquing, improper or too little sealant on the case halves, a nick to a gasket surface caused by a wayward gasket scraper, a crankshaft seal beaten crookedly into place with a socket, a popped garter spring in a seal...all these factors and more can cause an airleak that you'll likely never find without a leak tester.

You can build your own leakdown tester with basic parts from the local hardware store and a guide found on here.

Also, be sure to use only OEM Yamaha or Cometic gaskets in the engine. Green paper base gaskets are a recipe for disaster. Just ask Awk and many others who know firsthand...[/QUOTE]

BINGO! Ask me how i know?? I:I
 
I have built 2 stroke engines for years.
"Phsitt" happens. Huge time wasted trying to chase down a jetting problem that turned out to be a leaking crank seal or reed gasket. A 5 minute test before I put the pipe and carb on would tell everything. Instead I occaisionally ended up wasting hours trying to figure out some oddball problem, or worse, replacing parts that should not have needed it.

To make a tester is easy.
1) You need a low pressure (10psi-30psi) guage, to mount on the cylinder.
Unfortunately the compression is too high but you might be able to swap the guage on some of them.
2) you need some means of blocking the intake and exhaust.
Plumbing fittings and rubber hose, expanding rubber block plugs, rubber sheet under the exhaust flange all work.
3) you need some means of putting a controled 5psi-7psi into the engine.
A small $10 bicycle pump and a tire valve work. You can glue or fit the tire valve to one of your plugs or a hose.

Air and gauge can hook up to your plugs on the intake or exhaust, or screw into the sparkplug hole.
I make reedplates to block off the intake in the past:

24492_357065810802_3720482_n.jpg


but I don't like this method because it misses leaks in the reed box.
I prefer a round plumbing plug hoseclamped on the carb mount.

Here is your Blaster exhaust port, a sheet of inner tube or foam rubber under the exhaust flange will do.

169026_10150134020890803_6675257_n.jpg


Note the big air leak on the base gasket of this one!

Steve