i'm not gunna put a 14 t sproky because i'm racing a 250 gasgas and as i'm quicker in and out the bends all i want is a bit more go out the bends but i'm not gunna lose speed with a 3* advance
DIY 4 Degree Timing Advance (Pics)
- Thread starter jwalk1818
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i'm not gunna put a 14 t sproky because i'm racing a 250 gasgas and as i'm quicker in and out the bends all i want is a bit more go out the bends but i'm not gunna lose speed with a 3* advance
ok i did mine last night and wow it made a diff. now i need to know its a little lean now should i rejet up to a 270 main i have 250 now or take the needle down one notch to richin it up a little.
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So in other words, I can reverse the effects of this if I don't like what it does right? It's free & easy so why not!?!?! Great thread thanks alot...
Correct. If you slot the plate you have made your own "adjustable" timing plate. with the way it's made you can't go much more than 4* anyhow. I:I
I'm stripping my race quad at the moment and i was considering advancing the timing for mx but i will it take form my top end much when im doing enduros and grasstrack races ??? I have a skimmed head and its ported and i run 98 octane fuel
i would do it but opinions vary. i have mine set at +8 and it still flyyyyyyyys on topend
i would do it but opinions vary. i have mine set at +8 and it still flyyyyyyyys on topend
i was think of 3-5* :-/
This is the link I used to make my marks. It looks like there is 20 degrees advanced in the stock position.
Its too bad there isn't a bolt on kit that gives you digital advance with rpm. That would be the best of both worlds.
http://www.automotivearticles.com/uploads/degree_wheel.jpg
Its too bad there isn't a bolt on kit that gives you digital advance with rpm. That would be the best of both worlds.
http://www.automotivearticles.com/uploads/degree_wheel.jpg
Retarding it from stock, may loose power everywhere, but it will make it run cooler and soot up plugs, because you won't get the correct burn.
Im reading mixed results on this mod. I know you can test it out and if you dont like it just slide it back. But my question is how many degrees would I want to advance it? I have a .20 milled head. Other mods in sig.
Now, with a timing light you're looking at ACTUAL timing advance instead of relative timing advance.
Actual timing advance is the number of degrees before TDC that the spark plug must/does fire in order to match the flame front with piston position at TDC. On a blaster that number is like 20° at high rpm.
When you're talking about modding a stock stator plate for "advance" what you're really talking about doing it advancing the actual timing by a relative amount. The stock timing advance is like 20° BTDC but when you turn the stator plate 4° MORE you are increasing the timing to 24° BTDC at high rpm's.
Don't get confused about the difference between the two, the easiest to talk about is relative timing because you cannot adjust actual timing on a blaster.... the CDI is a big black box with no knobs.
I was looking at actual timing advance on the magneto with a timing light and marks I had made on the mag. I wanted to verify that my cdi was working properly. I actually retarded my timing a bit due to running problems that i have had. I'm on my 2nd piston so i'm gun shy of higher cylinder temps.
Yes, you're looking at ACTUAL timing advance (which nearly any engine that revs over 1k rpm will have SOME advance) when you're looking at the timing light on a mark on the flywheel but you're talking about relative timing advance when you say "retarded my timing a big due to running problems".
Instead of running 20° BTDC, you rotated your stator plate backwards 3-4° (from stock) so you're actually running ~16°BTDC?
Having to retard the timing to keep the temp down sugguests to me that the jetting may have been on the lean side.
If you are using fuel of the correct octane rating to suit modifications, and have the jetting spot on, using the stock timing should present no problems.
yes its because of the sheared key. the reason a key gets sheared is from not tighting the nut enough
The nut must be tightened to 53 ft lbs.
If the flywheel has spun, the taper in the flywheel may have been damaged.
No amount of tightening, will stop a flywheel spinning and shearing the key, if the mating surfaces between the flywheel and shaft are in poor condition.
If there are any imperfections on the mating surface the flywheel should be lapped to the shaft.
It is the taper that keeps the flywheel from spinning, not the tightness of the nut.
If the flywheel has spun, the taper in the flywheel may have been damaged.
No amount of tightening, will stop a flywheel spinning and shearing the key, if the mating surfaces between the flywheel and shaft are in poor condition.
If there are any imperfections on the mating surface the flywheel should be lapped to the shaft.
It is the taper that keeps the flywheel from spinning, not the tightness of the nut.
