I would never use starter fluid either....I just mentioned it in my post because someone in the thread mentioned it.
Did a plug chop
- Thread starter 89blaster89
- Start date
As I hope you know, were just tryin to prevent another rebuild thread due to a blown motor that could have been prevented. There's nothing worse than blowing your motor in the middle of summer and not being able to ride in the nice weather !
Have you leak tested your motor yet? If not send AWK a pm and buy a leak tester from him. If you are having problems it's best to start your own thread. For best results read this before starting your thread.
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/best-way-newbies-get-their-problems-solved-please-read-55590/
89blaster..... You might want to look at your rubber that connects the air filter to the carb. Make sure there is no dry rot or cracking.
I'm not trying to derail this thread. I'm asking questions that will get some answers to help the OP. He says he's leak tested and its tight but then everyone says the jets too big. I'm just trying to help other who read this thread in the future, where they might ALSO look for leaks past the USUAL locations
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One issue is that it might not leak until the engine is at operating temp and/or operated at higher RPM.
If you have a problem with using starter fluid, most/some brake cleaners are nonflamable, rpm would drop, engine miss. You could also use an unlit propane torch, rpm rise/maybe slight deto. Be sure to wiggle carb around incase of cracks in boot or manifold. Check all around carb, cap, pull little boot off choke and check there.
Might even have to do these tests at high idle, 1/16-1/8 throttle to simulated nearer operating conditions.
If you have a problem with using starter fluid, most/some brake cleaners are nonflamable, rpm would drop, engine miss. You could also use an unlit propane torch, rpm rise/maybe slight deto. Be sure to wiggle carb around incase of cracks in boot or manifold. Check all around carb, cap, pull little boot off choke and check there.
Might even have to do these tests at high idle, 1/16-1/8 throttle to simulated nearer operating conditions.
Not so, if air is entering the system anywhere in the induction tract, it will change the jetting requirements.
Got the real deal jets (Mikuni). Gonna start with a 320 and plug chop it. If that's not enough, I guess I'll start replacing everything that rubber
This is called thread jacking. Start your own thread, list all mods and elevation to get best results.
Good advice Larry`s Shee, especially about some fluids causing a miss or rpm drop and others a rise. I have used water, WD40, and all the above fluids. They all work except the unlit propane torch. Never had any luck with that. Not enough fuel to cause and RPM difference I believe. Just plain water from the hose will work too.
There is NO problem with using starting fluid for this other than the potential fire hazard that all flammables have. It is no more dangerous on an idling 2 stroke than water, WD40, carb cleaner or other fluid.
About the main jet size, small leaks around the carb boot and crank seals and reed box have a huge effect on idle and cruise mixture, but very little on WOT. The exhaust pipe seal, air filter tract, and internal carb passages have more of an effect on that. Trust in your plug. If it is good, you are good.
Steve
Me and my friend and another person I race with all use these pipes an run 330 jets at sera level?
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