I haven't looked at it that close. When I first put the axle back in, I was tightening the lock not and was getting snug then it pop in farther. I can find out what it is if I take it all back apart and look at it.
Dakotademon7's build gone addictive
- Thread starter blasterdemon7
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You do not need to take it apart, just look at the inside of the sprocket hub where it sits on the axle, gap or no gap before the carrier, lemme know.
This is what i have as far as torque specs,
Tighten the inside Nut to 40FTlbs while holding the axle, Hold the inside nut with wrench and tighten the outside nut to 140 FT lbs., Hold the out side nut and go in reverse direction as if your unscrewing the nut and tighten the inside nut against then outside nut to 170 FT LBS.
So really 40 Ft lbs isn't monster tight and that is setting the bearing drag.
Tighten the inside Nut to 40FTlbs while holding the axle, Hold the inside nut with wrench and tighten the outside nut to 140 FT lbs., Hold the out side nut and go in reverse direction as if your unscrewing the nut and tighten the inside nut against then outside nut to 170 FT LBS.
So really 40 Ft lbs isn't monster tight and that is setting the bearing drag.
I'll pull my sproket hub and see WTF is going on with it. I'll be getting my piston rings today. I'll have to wait till Sunday to put my jug on. I'll say about 2 weeks and it will be ready.
Here's a link to my HJR porting thread on DP with a reply post on what he did to my jug. Looking for opinions on the reply post by HJR.
My HJR ported Blaster jug
My HJR ported Blaster jug
yeah im not too impressed dude, im not saying its not a good port job, but i have def seen better. wildcard flotek etc, u get the picture, i guarantee its going to do what u want it to, that my opinion. post the pics up here. u got it free.
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As long as it's better then stock. I only paid shipping there and back for it. My jug is at 80 over so this winter , I'll get another jug and get it done by Ken.
so im assuming u feel the same way, in my eyes i would not pay for his work, maybe thats why it doesnt seem like a good job
whaaaaaattttttt ??????
it's ported for a +3 or stock stoke, but your gonna run it with a stock crank for now ????? that might run worse than stock ?????
dont expect much till you get the stroker, imo,
but hey, you got what ya paid for
it's ported for a +3 or stock stoke, but your gonna run it with a stock crank for now ????? that might run worse than stock ?????
dont expect much till you get the stroker, imo,
but hey, you got what ya paid for
Qhen I talked to him on the phone, I told him I would be running a stock crank all summer and changing to a stroker over the winter. He said that he could run good both ways. If this don't work with my stock crank, I'm screwed for ridding most of this year.
see thats what got me skeptical when he said he could set it up for stock and +3 stroker, logically it doesnt really make sense because u need to change port timing for the +3. so with it set for stock stroke its not going to match at bdc with the +3, visa versa
I don't know. I hope this don't set me back. I'm trying to get it together so I can ride. I don't have the money to set it with a new crank at this time.
you will be fine running it the way it is and i am sure u will notice a big difference also but u wont get the potential out of it till the +3 is in it. im still skeptical but i hope it runs like a raped ape for u.
I don't mind if it's only a little more powerful as long as it will still run good with a stock crank.
Got my extra pegs today in the mail. Got a great deal on them. Both pegs with bolts and brake peddle for $11.00 shipped. Going to cut them up to make my double pegs. The main resin I'm doing this is to move my heal guards back for more room to kick start it.
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