Clutch Boss Nut

[Xero]

How do I tighten this? I took SivicDude's advise and jammed a coin between the glutch basket gears and the crankcase gear but the clutch boss is still spinning and turning the back wheels?

Have I done something obviously wrong?

 

[sicivicdude]

I told you wrong. I was thinking about how to tighten the primary drive gear nut, not the clutch boss nut.

You either need a clutch basket holder (special tool)

Amazon.com: Motion Pro Clutch Hub Holder Engine ATV Tool & Supply Accessories - Carbon Steel / One Size: Automotive

Or to rivet a spare steel and fiber plate together to hold the inner and outer baskets together. I'm sorry for the confusion!

 

[sicivicdude]

Both of the nuts are the same torque though, 80Nm. I just confused myself daydreaming I guess!

 

[EZRider76]

Wait, you can put a copper washer in there to keep it from spinning...I think a guy did it on YouTube. I'm pretty sure you just wedge the washer between the spline gear on the back of the basket to the gear it meshes with. If that basket can't spin, nothing else should.

 

[Xero]

Ok thanks guys, ill put a few 50p 's in between the boss and gasket and see how that holds...

 

[sicivicdude]

no wait, if you're trying to tighten the inner clutch basket nut (the very inside one) you need to hold the inner clutch basket. Holding the outer basket (with a penny or washer) isn't going to help.

 

[Xero]

no wait, if you're trying to tighten the inner clutch basket nut (the very inside one) you need to hold the inner clutch basket. Holding the outer basket (with a penny or washer) isn't going to help.

Yeah, haha. Don't worry i got it all sorted, tipped the blaster on its side and got 2 of us to hold the wheels still while the other person torqued it up, was acctually really hard job rofl...

Once again, thanks for the help guys!



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[sicivicdude]

Yeah, haha. Don't worry i got it all sorted, tipped the blaster on its side and got 2 of us to hold the wheels still while the other person torqued it up, was acctually really hard job rofl...

Once again, thanks for the help guys!



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LMAO! Well that's one way!

That pictures bring to mind an old saying "work smarter, not harder". The tool to not have to do it that way is only like $25 and should practically last forever!

 

[Xero]

Haha, what ever works though, ey? can finally finish it of today. Lol

 

[EZRider76]

no wait, if you're trying to tighten the inner clutch basket nut (the very inside one) you need to hold the inner clutch basket. Holding the outer basket (with a penny or washer) isn't going to help.

Where is there an inner vs outer clutch boss nut? The only clutch boss nut is the one on the tabbed washer. OEM Parts Yamaha BLASTER (YFS200M) 2000 CLUTCH - Cheap Cycle Parts item 16 in this exploded view. I know the issue is fixed and I'm not looking to be a douche, I'm just wondering what nut we are talking about.

 

[mjgnslngr]

Where is there an inner vs outer clutch boss nut? The only clutch boss nut is the one on the tabbed washer. OEM Parts Yamaha BLASTER (YFS200M) 2000 CLUTCH - Cheap Cycle Parts item 16 in this exploded view. I know the issue is fixed and I'm not looking to be a douche, I'm just wondering what nut we are talking about.

i think thats the one. i had a biotch getting mine off. then i remembered the impact. amazing how we take tools like that for granted till you aint got one.
clever thinking xero!!!I:I

 

[sicivicdude]

Where is there an inner vs outer clutch boss nut? The only clutch boss nut is the one on the tabbed washer. OEM Parts Yamaha BLASTER (YFS200M) 2000 CLUTCH - Cheap Cycle Parts item 16 in this exploded view. I know the issue is fixed and I'm not looking to be a douche, I'm just wondering what nut we are talking about.

There is no outer clutch basket nut Silly goose!

The "penny trick" is to jam the outer clutch basket and the primary drive gear to tighten the primary drive gear nut. Because there no connection between the outer basket and the inner basket until after the clutch is installed and torqued, he cannot use the "penny trick" to tighten the inner clutch basket (clutch boss, whatever you want to call it) nut as I said in the chat yesterday afternoon. It wasn't until after he had already left that I thought twice about it and realized I had told him incorrectly!

 

[mjgnslngr]

There is no outer clutch basket nut Silly goose!

lmfao!!!!!!! Big Gay Al!!!!!

 

[EZRider76]

Well, I'm confused as a nun in a cucumber patch. When I put my clutch back together, I torque the boss nut down by locking the basket in place...at least I'm sure I did, it wasn't that long ago. Forget my carb issues, I'm gonna tear my clutch apart tonight to remember what I did.8-|

 

[Xero]

One major problem I have hit AGAIN, is when torqueing the spring bolts up once again one snapped before getting even tight? i was thinking of replacing them with high tensile steel bolts, but would it hold with just the other 4 bolts before i do?

 

[EZRider76]

It would hold, but it wouldn't be advisable. it also wouldn't put the same tension on the friction plates and there could be weight distribution and balance issues....a five pack at the dealer is like $8. Did you get the screw out of the boss?

 

[Xero]

I did the first time and now i will have to again, but my theirs no point in ordering the proper things if they just keep snapping before getting anywhere near tight?

 

[EZRider76]

You may be over torturing them and not knowing it. put blue loctite on the screws, thread them down til they bottom out, then just 1/8 more of a turn. Give it 24hrs before adding the oil. you should be golden.

 

[slickerthanyou]

I did the first time and now i will have to again, but my theirs no point in ordering the proper things if they just keep snapping before getting anywhere near tight?

I have never snapped one. You all must be roughas them bolts are stronger than the aluminum they screw into! A 5/16 or 8mm nut driver is all ya need for off and on, that spring tension will hold that bolt from moving. Torque specs 6Nm here--

One other note, It's a good thing your inner basket spins freely, as if it didn't, then the larger washer behind the outer clutch basket gear could be too thick, have seen it personally.

 

[sicivicdude]

One major problem I have hit AGAIN, is when torqueing the spring bolts up once again one snapped before getting even tight? i was thinking of replacing them with high tensile steel bolts, but would it hold with just the other 4 bolts before i do?

It would hold, but it wouldn't be advisable. it also wouldn't put the same tension on the friction plates and there could be weight distribution and balance issues....a five pack at the dealer is like $8. Did you get the screw out of the boss?

I did the first time and now i will have to again, but my theirs no point in ordering the proper things if they just keep snapping before getting anywhere near tight?

You may be over torturing them and not knowing it. put blue loctite on the screws, thread them down til they bottom out, then just 1/8 more of a turn. Give it 24hrs before adding the oil. you should be golden.

If the first one snapped, there is a reason.... when the second one snaps, the reason why the first one snapped wasn't solved the first time... cannot blame the bolts for that!

The tension on the spring is set by the bolt length and thickness if the washer under the head. While a stronger bolt MAY power through whatever keeps snapping off regular bolts, it would be easier to fix the problem with the inner basket.

I wouldn't run loctite on clutch bolts except under EXTREME conditions (1000mile desert race or dragging). The "stand offs" cast into the inner hub aren't very strong and getting a bolt in with a boogered thread and then loctited might be enough to snap one off later....

Inspect all of the holes in the inner clutch hub. They are M5 x .8 so go get a 5mm tap and thread chase each hole to make sure something isn't wrong with the threads/jammed in the hole causing the problem.