Clutch not engaging

[Sub_Blaster]

So I bought a 2001 Blaster that wasn’t running.

I just got the cylinder bored and a WISECO piston and it cranks and runs and idles great.

I had issues adjusting the clutch arm correctly. And now when you put it in gear it barely tries to grab and move and that’s it.

I’m pretty sure that I put the ball back in on the pushrod. But I didn’t use any grease.

Any ideas what to check?

With the clutch cover off, I can watch the clutch looking like it disengages and reengages. But I have no frame of reference.

As far as I know, there could be transmission/gear issues. But I doubt it because while the chain was off, I ran it through the gears and you could watch the sprocket spin.

Thanks!

 

[Whatsup2day]

So I bought a 2001 Blaster that wasn’t running.

I just got the cylinder bored and a WISECO piston and it cranks and runs and idles great.

I had issues adjusting the clutch arm correctly. And now when you put it in gear it barely tries to grab and move and that’s it.

I’m pretty sure that I put the ball back in on the pushrod. But I didn’t use any grease.

Any ideas what to check?

With the clutch cover off, I can watch the clutch looking like it disengages and reengages. But I have no frame of reference.

As far as I know, there could be transmission/gear issues. But I doubt it because while the chain was off, I ran it through the gears and you could watch the sprocket spin.

Thanks!

I would disassemble the clutch and follow the book/manual/video putting it back together and double check everything...I've had one in the past where the lock nut on the adjusting push rod kept backing off so might want to check that first. If it is then pull the rod out and make sure ball bearing is present..I forget if you use oil or grease on it but lube it before putting back in and spray threads and nut clean and put a tiny bit of loc tite in the nut and readjust it.give loc tite time to set up before filling back up with oil.wouldnt hurt to pull clutch pack apart and wipe everything done real good and re-oil them before assembly..

 

[Whatsup2day]

I would disassemble the clutch and follow the book/manual/video putting it back together and double check everything...I've had one in the past where the lock nut on the adjusting push rod kept backing off so might want to check that first. If it is then pull the rod out and make sure ball bearing is present..I forget if you use oil or grease on it but lube it before putting back in and spray threads and nut clean and put a tiny bit of loc tite in the nut and readjust it.give loc tite time to set up before filling back up with oil.wouldnt hurt to pull clutch pack apart and wipe everything done real good and re-oil them before assembly..

Oh yeah..start with the simplest thing first ..is your cable too tight? You should have a small amount of slack when lever is resting..if your lever is to tight that could cause your problem

 

[Whatsup2day]

So I bought a 2001 Blaster that wasn’t running.

I just got the cylinder bored and a WISECO piston and it cranks and runs and idles great.

I had issues adjusting the clutch arm correctly. And now when you put it in gear it barely tries to grab and move and that’s it.

I’m pretty sure that I put the ball back in on the pushrod. But I didn’t use any grease.

Any ideas what to check?

With the clutch cover off, I can watch the clutch looking like it disengages and reengages. But I have no frame of reference.

As far as I know, there could be transmission/gear issues. But I doubt it because while the chain was off, I ran it through the gears and you could watch the sprocket spin.

Thanks!

 

[Whatsup2day]

Also could be the clutch pack just worn out..

 

[Sub_Blaster]

Thanks for the info. There seem to be multiple issues honestly. The clutch cable seems too tight, even when fully loosened. But as a test, I disconnected the clutch cable completely and started the bike in neutral and kicked it down into 1st. And as expected, it lurched and then died. The way you would expect it to if you had popped the clutch at idle.

I guess I should give more details. I replaced my clutch basket with one of those billet ones and it has brand new clutch frictions.

So yesterday I took the clutch side engine cover off and removed the pushrod and ball bearing and inspected them. They all look decent but I'm waiting for a replacement one that comes today.

Anyway, when I bought this thing, it didn't run. And the guy that I got it from bought it in running condition, but said that it wouldn't pull or go into gear. I'm not 100% sure which, but he assumed that it was a clutch issue. The clutch basket was pretty notchy, so that's why I replaced it.

Then, I put the pushrod back in and the clutch pressure plate and springs and bolts and tried adjusting the clutch actuating arm. And I did line up the dots on the clutch hub and pressure plate. That's where my issue seems to be. Or maybe I'm just an idiot and I'm confused with how it is supposed to be. For some reason, when I adjust the actuation arm to where it needs to be, there is no pull left for the clutch cable. Meaning that it can't pull the actuation arm forward at all.

Since I don't know the history of this thing, or if it ever worked correctly the way that it's built, it makes me wonder if someone had the cases split and didn't install things correctly like with the gears or shift forks. And the issue is just presenting itself as a clutch and clutch adjustment issue. If that makes sense. So I'm thinking that I may need to split the cases to verify all of that. It would be a different story if I knew otherwise for sure. But who knows what the last guy did or messed up before the guy that I got it from that never got it right.

And if there's one thing that I know to be true, it's that people are idiots and will straight up lie to you when they sell something so that they can get more $$. Then it's your problem and issue to figure out.

Does anyone know if there is something internal with the gears like that, that could cause anything like what I'm experiencing?

Thanks! Sorry, I know that I'm long winded. I'm just trying to be thorough and give the most info and details so I can get the best info and responses back. Also, this forum doesn't seem to be nearly as active as it used to be anymore. Probably because these things are so old now and there aren't many new issues that other people haven't already seen and experienced and fixed years ago! Lol

 

[Whatsup2day]

Thanks for the info. There seem to be multiple issues honestly. The clutch cable seems too tight, even when fully loosened. But as a test, I disconnected the clutch cable completely and started the bike in neutral and kicked it down into 1st. And as expected, it lurched and then died. The way you would expect it to if you had popped the clutch at idle.

I guess I should give more details. I replaced my clutch basket with one of those billet ones and it has brand new clutch frictions.

So yesterday I took the clutch side engine cover off and removed the pushrod and ball bearing and inspected them. They all look decent but I'm waiting for a replacement one that comes today.

Anyway, when I bought this thing, it didn't run. And the guy that I got it from bought it in running condition, but said that it wouldn't pull or go into gear. I'm not 100% sure which, but he assumed that it was a clutch issue. The clutch basket was pretty notchy, so that's why I replaced it.

Then, I put the pushrod back in and the clutch pressure plate and springs and bolts and tried adjusting the clutch actuating arm. And I did line up the dots on the clutch hub and pressure plate. That's where my issue seems to be. Or maybe I'm just an idiot and I'm confused with how it is supposed to be. For some reason, when I adjust the actuation arm to where it needs to be, there is no pull left for the clutch cable. Meaning that it can't pull the actuation arm forward at all.

Since I don't know the history of this thing, or if it ever worked correctly the way that it's built, it makes me wonder if someone had the cases split and didn't install things correctly like with the gears or shift forks. And the issue is just presenting itself as a clutch and clutch adjustment issue. If that makes sense. So I'm thinking that I may need to split the cases to verify all of that. It would be a different story if I knew otherwise for sure. But who knows what the last guy did or messed up before the guy that I got it from that never got it right.

And if there's one thing that I know to be true, it's that people are idiots and will straight up lie to you when they sell something so that they can get more $$. Then it's your problem and issue to figure out.

Does anyone know if there is something internal with the gears like that, that could cause anything like what I'm experiencing?

Thanks! Sorry, I know that I'm long winded. I'm just trying to be thorough and give the most info and details so I can get the best info and responses back. Also, this forum doesn't seem to be nearly as active as it used to be anymore. Probably because these things are so old now and there aren't many new issues that other people haven't already seen and experienced and fixed years ago! Lol

Disconnect the cable..start it in neutral with it faced forward against a tree or something or tie the back end of to something sturdy facing away from it.or on a jack or stand with back wheels off the ground.with it running in neutral use a pair of channel locks or pliers and actuate the clutch lever on the side of engine and put in gear..see if the clutch will function that way..the cable not having any adjustment could be wrong perch or lever or wrong cable or maybe a broken cable that someone "repaired" and wound up too short...if you have clutch lever on case lined up correctly and you can manually activate it the your issue sound like it's between the cable and brake lever(on handlebar)..

 

[Whatsup2day]

Thanks for the info. There seem to be multiple issues honestly. The clutch cable seems too tight, even when fully loosened. But as a test, I disconnected the clutch cable completely and started the bike in neutral and kicked it down into 1st. And as expected, it lurched and then died. The way you would expect it to if you had popped the clutch at idle.

I guess I should give more details. I replaced my clutch basket with one of those billet ones and it has brand new clutch frictions.

So yesterday I took the clutch side engine cover off and removed the pushrod and ball bearing and inspected them. They all look decent but I'm waiting for a replacement one that comes today.

Anyway, when I bought this thing, it didn't run. And the guy that I got it from bought it in running condition, but said that it wouldn't pull or go into gear. I'm not 100% sure which, but he assumed that it was a clutch issue. The clutch basket was pretty notchy, so that's why I replaced it.

Then, I put the pushrod back in and the clutch pressure plate and springs and bolts and tried adjusting the clutch actuating arm. And I did line up the dots on the clutch hub and pressure plate. That's where my issue seems to be. Or maybe I'm just an idiot and I'm confused with how it is supposed to be. For some reason, when I adjust the actuation arm to where it needs to be, there is no pull left for the clutch cable. Meaning that it can't pull the actuation arm forward at all.

Since I don't know the history of this thing, or if it ever worked correctly the way that it's built, it makes me wonder if someone had the cases split and didn't install things correctly like with the gears or shift forks. And the issue is just presenting itself as a clutch and clutch adjustment issue. If that makes sense. So I'm thinking that I may need to split the cases to verify all of that. It would be a different story if I knew otherwise for sure. But who knows what the last guy did or messed up before the guy that I got it from that never got it right.

And if there's one thing that I know to be true, it's that people are idiots and will straight up lie to you when they sell something so that they can get more $$. Then it's your problem and issue to figure out.

Does anyone know if there is something internal with the gears like that, that could cause anything like what I'm experiencing?

Thanks! Sorry, I know that I'm long winded. I'm just trying to be thorough and give the most info and details so I can get the best info and responses back. Also, this forum doesn't seem to be nearly as active as it used to be anymore. Probably because these things are so old now and there aren't many new issues that other people haven't already seen and experienced and fixed years ago! Lol

Disconnect the cable..start it in neutral with it faced forward against a tree or something or tie the back end of to something sturdy facing away from it.or on a jack or stand with back wheels off the ground.with it running in neutral use a pair of channel locks or pliers and actuate the clutch lever on the side of engine and put in gear..see if the clutch will function that way..the cable not having any adjustment could be wrong perch or lever or wrong cable or maybe a broken cable that someone "repaired" and wound up too short...if you have clutch lever on case lined up correctly and you can manually activate it the your issue sound like it's between the cable and brake lever(on handlebar)..

 

[Whatsup2day]

 

[Whatsup2day]

You can adjust cable at the lever and you might have more adjustment at the cable bracket that holds it against engine depending on the cable you have.

 

[Sub_Blaster]

You can adjust cable at the lever and you might have more adjustment at the cable bracket that holds it against engine depending on the cable you have.View attachment 35883

That’s literally the style of cable I just ordered today. It should be here tomorrow and between swapping the pushrod and cable, I think I’ll finally be good to go.

Thanks for the info and help. I’ll post when it’s fixed.

 

[Whatsup2day]

That’s literally the style of cable I just ordered today. It should be here tomorrow and between swapping the pushrod and cable, I think I’ll finally be good to go.

Thanks for the info and help. I’ll post when it’s fixed.

Cool..I'd still manually check the clutch withe pliers and make sure the plates are moving(engaging/disengaging)..
I think this forums activity level probably has more to do with people being on social medias now rather than forums...I don't do sm so I'm just lurking around here lol tryna learn more and more before it disappears like so much other info on the web...I built around ten or so 2stroke engines in late 90s early 2000s..5 of them being blasters all following the books..thought I was a pro back then lol..there is a lot of good info on here I wish I knew then..wish I had the time and money to print everything on here on paper so it doesn't disappear some day ..hope your new parts solve your problem..check the length of your new push rod to the old one also. Old one could be worn(too short) wrong one from another machine or even shop made to wrong length(too long/too short)..

 

[Sub_Blaster]

Cool..I'd still manually check the clutch withe pliers and make sure the plates are moving(engaging/disengaging)..
I think this forums activity level probably has more to do with people being on social medias now rather than forums...I don't do sm so I'm just lurking around here lol tryna learn more and more before it disappears like so much other info on the web...I built around ten or so 2stroke engines in late 90s early 2000s..5 of them being blasters all following the books..thought I was a pro back then lol..there is a lot of good info on here I wish I knew then..wish I had the time and money to print everything on here on paper so it doesn't disappear some day ..hope your new parts solve your problem..check the length of your new push rod to the old one also. Old one could be worn(too short) wrong one from another machine or even shop made to wrong length(too long/too short)..

Yeah, I’m hoping that the pushrod is the big fix. But between that and the fully adjustable clutch cable, I feel like I’ll be able to make it work.

And when I very first put it together, I did test it with the clutch handle. Pulling and releasing it and watching the clutch plates move out and then back in. But there was no sweet spot where the discs would both fully disengage with the handle pulled, but still fully reengage when I released it.

At the time it appeared to be because the clutch cable wasn’t long enough. Like didn’t have enough slack. But now I’m more thinking that that was the symptom I was seeing because maybe the pushrod wasn’t long enough. It didn’t look mushroomed or anything like that. So I’m going with your theory of maybe it came out of a completely different type of machine/engine.

So it appears correct. But until I can compare what I have side by side with the cheap Chinese replacement I ordered, I won’t know.

I know that for certain parts, it’s best to stick with OEM stuff. But when you’re pissed off and frustrated and just ready to get something fixed and working so that your 12yo son can ride as soon as possible, the 1-2 Amazon shipping is VERY enticing. Along with being cheaper as well.

Anyway, I’ll test out the pushrod by itself once it gets here and see if that fixes it with the clutch cable I have.

My son is being impatient though. He wants it fixed and running ASAP. Which I get. But also, the kickstarter return spring that’s inside the case is badly bent and keeps dropping out of it’s hole. So I ordered a new one and it should be here Saturday.

Which means that I’m going to have to drain and use more oil, again, when it gets here. Not to mention the fact that every time you take a case cover off and put it back on, you have the potential for starting a leak. Hopefully not though. I had pretty decent gaskets and I always run a film of grease around both sides so that they seal better and also don’t get dry and tear when it take stuff off and put it back on.

 

[Whatsup2day]

Something else I just thought about .has your engine case been damaged and repaired from the chain?..if the rod doesn't sit right in there it could cause it to not adjust right also....my case is still apart so I'll take a pic or vid in a few to show you what I mean .

 

[Whatsup2day]

#15

 

[Whatsup2day]

 

[Whatsup2day]

View attachment 35885

The filler material is on the left. The lever on the rt of the hole..you can see a wear mark on the lever..I have seen these get worn down. They can be welded back up and reshaped if worn too much..I tried to post a short vid but I've just realized I can only post screen shots so I took a photo and then screen shot that photo in order to post it .

 

[Whatsup2day]

 

[Sub_Blaster]

My cases don’t look repaired like that at all. So I don’t think so. They look the way that they should.

and my actuator arm shaft actually looks really good and not worn at all. So I would assume that that part is good.

 

[Sub_Blaster]

But just seeing that DOES make me think that I should get a case saver though!