can too much oil cause clutch slippage?

Blaner

Blaner

Your Friendly South African Ambassador
Mar 26, 2008
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^^ what it says

I have a helicoil in my sump plug because the old one was stripped, now it protrudes into the cases a little so i cant completely drain all the oil out so it makes filling with the correct amount a bit tricky. i think i put too much in last time and it is over the level on the inspection window. can this cause clutch slippage? i am experiencing some slip when the power kicks in that i never noticed before i changed the oil!
 
I wouldn't think so. I fubared and put almost a full quart (small liter) ATF in last weekend and had no problems. Tho ripping hard yesturday it started spewing from countershaft seal. Found vent tube was blocked by mud dauber wasp, hope leak was only temp.
 
I would suspect that the quality of the oil has changed, not that the level changed the way that new oil is working.

The clutch is bathed in oil all the time and when the engine is running, the oil is being slung all around everywhere coating everything. I would think that the amount of oil which could be left in the bottom end because of a thread repair might raise the level .5mm in the gear box when you put the correct amount of oil in... should not make a difference at all.

If you are slipping now, change out the gearbox lube again and put something different in. Perhaps the factory changed the formulation on you without saying anything.
 
sicivicdude said:
I would suspect that the quality of the oil has changed, not that the level changed the way that new oil is working.

The clutch is bathed in oil all the time and when the engine is running, the oil is being slung all around everywhere coating everything. I would think that the amount of oil which could be left in the bottom end because of a thread repair might raise the level .5mm in the gear box when you put the correct amount of oil in... should not make a difference at all.

If you are slipping now, change out the gearbox lube again and put something different in. Perhaps the factory changed the formulation on you without saying anything.
Click to expand...

i think you slammed the nail again Sic, i had Yamalube 2 stroke Trans-oil in there last time but it got milky and i had to do a some work on the drain hole again so i drained it out. i didnt have enough Yamalube to do a full refill so used castrol GTX 20w40 its a straight forward engine oil.
 
i also had a look at the clutch push rod and think it was perhaps pushing a little at rest, so i slacked it off a tad as well then i went and swapped out the large ID friction plate and the cushion spring with another old full sized plate of similar thickness. I am yet to test drive but sure it will be ok now...
 
oh heck, I was assuming you put the same brand oil in the gearbox but they had changed since the last time you bought some.

Yeah.... to use standard motor oil it has to be ASE rated SE or LOWER (good luck finding lower, it's all been sold and replaced with the newer formulations) or non-energy conservation (good luck finding that anywhere too) motor oil. The SF+ motor oils are energy conserving and include phosphorus and sulfur to help with windage problems (chemcials including those compounds make the oil "slicker" meaning it can sling off of rods and crankshafts instead of "sticking" to them) Unfortunately, phosphorus and sulfur compounds cause wet clutches to slip (because they are "slick").

If you are dead set on using motor oil... look for Shell Rotella T diesel motor oil and look on the back to confirm it is JASO MA compliant. It doesn't include these compounds! That's what I run in my semi-auto Kawasaki Bayou 400 (two wet clutches and the oil supply provides the engine with lube too) because I've put in standard 10W-40 motor oil and had the primary clutch slip!

I switched to ATF in my blaster transmission. Not only is it a VERY good indicator liquid (when it gets too much clutch material in it, it turns from pink to grey so you can see it through the window) but it's wet clutch safe and still lubes the transmission well.
 
Don't even bother with that bottle.... Pour it in your car and go get something for wet clutches LOL.

Rotella T seems to work well. I've pulled a 19 foot pleasure boat around my yard with my bayou on rotella and it doesn't slip (any more than pulling a 3000 lb boat with a 400cc utility quad would) but I like the ATF for my blasty transmission.
 
dont think so when my clutch used to slip there wasnt enough play in my clutch lever so adjusted the play on my clutch lever and she hasnt slipped since
 
A utomatic T ransmission F luid. IIRC use type "F" (Ford). Why does ATF work so well? What is an auto trans? Clutches and gears. (and a couple hundred other parts)
 
I have used both type F (or FA depending on the manufacturer) and synthetic ATF +4. Both seem to work equally well. I do usually pick up Type F when I'm needing some because it's cheaper than ATF +4...
 
so any type F auto trans fluid is the best option? i found a 500ml bottle in the garage now my dad uses to top up the powersteering its Castrol Automatic transmax M. it says formulated to satisfy GM6137M specs and suitable for transmissions requiring GM type fluid.

what is the diff between the GM, F and the +4 you mentioned??
 
GM is compatible with dextron mercon 3

Type F is the OLD ford transmissions (C4 C6 era)

ATF +4 is the new synthetic specification most everything is going to now.

For the purposes of a blaster transmission (and most power steering system for that matter actually) I would consider them all compatible and usable. Don't just go stealing your dads power steering fluid however... go get yourself a quart.
 
LOL Id steal my old mans fluid. Then Id chuckle when he was out there yelling about not being able to find it!

But thats just how me and my old man roll.

Good stuff Civic. I have some yamalube for my blaster, which Ill prolly use, but when I change my clutch out, Im gonna prolly just use ATF. Cause it totally makes sense. Autos use wet clutches. Theres no friction modifier in it. Good stuff.
 
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