Not sure which method you tried but the best method I have found to work and produce results is using heat and air pressure. Just work the outside of the dent towards the center with heat getting it hot but not to hot, expansion plug for blocking off one side, and air presure. A rubber stopper with a blow gun through it works well so you can back off pressure as fast as possible.i also fixed the leaks in my pipe. i tried getting the dents out of it but they wont come out.
that's what I did. worked on it for over an hour. got most of them to move a little bit but not far enough. the big one is just to deep to do it with heat and pressure. I would have to drill a couple holes in the back side and press them out than weld the hole closed. this pipe is way to beat to put a lot of time into it.Not sure which method you tried but the best method I have found to work and produce results is using heat and air pressure. Just work the outside of the dent towards the center with heat getting it hot but not to hot, expansion plug for blocking off one side, and air presure. A rubber stopper with a blow gun through it works well so you can back off pressure as fast as possible.
this pipe is way to beat to put a lot of time into it.
im going to get another pipe to modify. im just happy its running finally. I need reeds or new reed cage like v force. one petal was chipped.it doesn't have an erratic idle or anything. will go back and retighten the base nuts. I want to run this machine at 50 inches front and back. it is the max width in Michigan trails and will make it so stable. once I set the suspension up right, the miles of whoops will be nothing.then no harm doing the drill/press dent/weld you mentioned above ?
that dent will hurt performance
bikes lookin good !
gonna flip these YFZ rims tomorrow and see what width i get, i remember it being way wide with my ASR +3's
im going to get another pipe to modify. im just happy its running finally. I need reeds or new reed cage like v force. one petal was chipped.it doesn't have an erratic idle or anything. will go back and retighten the base nuts. I want to run this machine at 50 inches front and back. it is the max width in Michigan trails and will make it so stable. once I set the suspension up right, the miles of whoops will be nothing.
I flipped the fronts just for fun and found the valve stem doesn't contact the caliper. if it does, it is minimal but I need actual Honda lugnuts to center the rims. once they get centered, no contact. I was happy to get the width. now for the rear. what axle are you running to get 49 1/2?
is it a blaster or banshee axle? ive been looking on ebay at used axles. but may just buy new.G-force/Tusk axle using both spacers per side, banshee hubs with Raptor700 rims and RAZR 2's
is it a blaster or banshee axle? ive been looking on ebay at used axles. but may just buy new.