When it rains it pours!

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My next thought, In stead of 2-3'stage pipes,'since your ready doing math and building a billion cones, why not make a 4-6 stage pipe that allow for smoother transition between segments?

There are cone building programs out there available for a moderate amount of money and a few which are basic but free and work similar to what you're talking about.

The best possible solution is a gradual "swell" out from the exhaust port to the center section of the pipe. Actually, stamped is the absolute smoothest transition offering the least resistance. While it is true that supersonic sound waves don't see turns and edges as long as the pipe crosssection is round, temperature gradients and flow DO see edges, turns, bumps, and pretty much all of the other physical things related to pipe building. The perfect shape would be perfectly smooth transition....obviously that not possible by hand without some REALLY heavy tooling so the second smoothest design would be more than three segments. The problem is, complexity is a cube of the square of segments. Theoretically, once you've done it once, you could do it 500 times to build a pipe out of 501 segments but the error over the length of each of the joints is exponential as you make more segments between two points (you know D1 and D2 and you only need one cone cut into corresponding segments to reach D2 from D1). If you want to make 40 cones between D1 and D2 the odds of missing D2 becomes much larger...
 
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Have you heard of cone lay out,'software?. Input starting diameter,length ending diameter, angle you want each end to be...'then print, I makes 1 to 1 scale print outs on paper. Uses multiple sheets for large segments. You trace and cut. Really accurate if you get a good trace + cut.
 
Have you heard of cone lay out,'software?. Input starting diameter,length ending diameter, angle you want each end to be...'then print, I makes 1 to 1 scale print outs on paper. Uses multiple sheets for large segments. You trace and cut. Really accurate if you get a good trace + cut.

I've seen it but never coughed up any dough to get it. I have another program which was free but works very similar. It's a little more "math" based in that you have to tell it the dimensions of the entire pipe piece you want and then it lays it out (a little difficult if you are trying to fit it around your frame but don't have those exact measurements) but can be handy if you know your start and end point! LOL
 
Alright, I untarped and pushed the dragger back out to the garage last night. I sat there on the stool looking at it and wondering what I'm going to do about ignition control.

I made a few decisions. I'd rather have "proper" ignition timing control than stock ignition even at the added cost and time involved.

I'd REALLY like to make this a technological marvel (and testing platform I:I) so I think I'm going to take this setup to the next level.

Basically, I'm going to spend as much money on an ignition controller as I will setting up a basic fuel injected EMS. I talked with "the boss" last night about it and after 6 short years of marriage she's figured it out..... I'm a big kid and I'm gonna not be happy until I've got new awesome toys to play with.... SOOOOOO I think I'm going to be buying a DIY megasquirt V3 controller. It has the ability to run a basic fuel injection, a single high output coil, and has to be completely hand assembled (VERY sicivicdude like!) from components.

The major obstacle as I see it is fuel pressure. An ignition coil, two fuel injectors, and a handful of sensors don't draw a lot of power. A small 12VDC gel cell battery will work to power those components for quite a while (I estimate 2 hours run time on a small 5 Ah battery which, any dragger can tell you is about 4 days of racing! LOL!) but an electric fuel pump is QUITE an amperage draw. An electric fuel pump would cut run time at 12VDC down to 30 minutes or less.

First symptoms of a dying battery running an EFI system with an electric fuel pump would be fuel pressure drop which would result in a lean condition....and KABOOEY! for the engine.

First symptoms of a dying battery running an EFI system with just the injectors and ignition system hooked to it would be coil beginning to misfire at high rpms.... lost run perhaps.... not lost engine!

I have begun to look at options for mechanically pumping fuel.... one I have been thinking about for a while is to modify the oil injection pump driveshaft to fit a gear-gear mechanical pump. Unfortunately, this means I have to rely on the stock delrin plastic gear to drive my fuel supply.... not really happy about that option but it may be my best choice.

Anyone know of a replacement metal oil injection gear? 8-|

Other options include driving through the housing that *would* have been the water pump but then I have to fully equip that with bearings and seals and still have the issue of finding a drive gear.

Another interesting option is a pulley off the flywheel side, driving a fuel pump mounted where the carbreutor would be. There'll be a little bit of room left there as the carburetor float bowl won't be there anymore and the throttle body and fuel injector(s) can be shifted any way that suits installation because there's no float that has to be straight up and down....
 
sick man!! i like how the boss is on board! makes it so much easier lol I:I I:I

Well, she sat there looking at me and blinking while I laid out the three different options:

PJ38 + jet kit and stock dual ignitions (cheap but not as good)

PJ38 + jet kit and MSD ignition controller (the MSD box is like $300)

megasquirt (the most expensive and most difficult to setup but also the most flexible by far!)

After I got done explaining the pros and cons, she looked right at me and said "I know you, you're not gonna be happy unless you've got it how you want it... so why are we discussing this again?"

I took that as "she's on board"! I:I
 
No, no, no. My EXACT words were, "I know that you're not going to be happy unless it's perfect, so are you ultimately going to end up buying and trying all 3?" I'm fine with whatever you go with. Obviously, the chance of blowing the motor is the greatest evil, so whichever one will keep that from happening, while allowing you get your "Go fast" on, dew et! I'm behind ya, Babe. Which reminds me, it's time to get my SCD Racing t-shirt made. XD
 
I find myself in need of an old flywheel. I'm going to need the center hub of the flywheel only so even one with busted or rusted magents is OK. I'm going to grind the rivets off and only use the center piece anyway so I don't care what kind of condition the rest of the flywheel is in.
 
I'm thinking that a single throttle body off a older EFI snow mobile might be the best bet for setting up the throttle body. I'd play hell trying to build a throttle body from scratch. They're premade, most have a fuel rail already mounted on the top of them, TPS on the side of one throttle body, and most use units come with two fuel injectors. I may have to modify the setup to get both fuel injectors into one throttle body but that's really something I'm going to have to test once I get the rest of the setup done.
 
micro sqiurt should be just as good ive been considering delving into efi on my aircooled baja bug, goldwing and blaster. there is a company here in wichita that specializes in efi on quads namely e85 burning banshee s they made the cover of dirt wheels w a 90hp stock jug efi e85 pikees peak racing banshee. they also make their own line of aftermarket jugs. the name is JSR racing, they might have some pointers for ya
 
I have an issue I cannot wrap my head around. I have a power issue. It's been suggested that I could run dual lighting coils under the stock flywheel and rectify the output to 12VDC to keep a small battery charged BUT I'm trying to get away from the stock flywheel (lightened or not)

EFI systems are designed for start enrichment as a percentage of the base fuel programming. The problem is, electric fuel pumps have constant pressure... mechanical fuel pumps have a linear pressure curve in relation to engine RPM. At kick start RPM's the mechanical fuel pump won't supply enough pressure for the EFI system to start the engine (it won't be spraying enough fuel to start)

I think I'm back to option #2 (use the PJ 38 and some sort of ignition controller) for the time being. I'd like to tackle EFI at some point but I'm not sure that the dragger is the right application for EFI (perhaps my yellow blaster actually!)
 
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