sounds awesome On a side note wouldent "using" nitromethane be like using ether starting spray as a fuel source?lol Also I dont think this has been covered how do you expect the piston to hold up to the power produced from your intended fuel?
When it rains it pours!
- Thread starter sicivicdude
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Yeah, purging is the key to the health of the entire fuel system apparently, not just the lines. Methanol is corrosive to most metals and will slowly eat rubber lines anyway...
Racer51, hell who knows! I'm not planning on this engine running for 1,000 hours anyway. If it makes through a weekend, I'll be grinning from ear to ear and use the knowledge gained to figure out the next move.
I'll do you one better. The cylinder is back from the machine and *might* be going on this afternoon. A little sicivicdude style electrical thrash and I may be trying to kick it over tomorrow. If it runs, it's coming to busco beach next Thursday morning and you can check out all you want to then!
are you gonna paint the frame? i think it would look sweet if it was black. and need more pics what ever you got.
No ids of the start up. If I can get it to do a heat cycle without locking up, I'll take a video of the second heat cycle. That's the earliest I'd feel comfortable recording it running.
The frame is staying the same crap-tastic stock silver/rust color it is now until AT LEAST next week. Maybe once I get back home from busco I'll disassemble this thing and go about painting/powdercoating parts, MAYBE.
IT LIVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I hooked up a single stock ignition system for testing, micro drilled the pilot and main jets out and poured a little bit of 10% nitro blend in the tank. After a few disheartening "puffs" it sputtered to life. I immediately adjusted the PJ38 idle screw setting and turned the choke off and it actually cleared its throat and ran!!!! At first I could tell it was that old stinky mix gasoline and then the sweet sweet smell came pouring out of that pipe.... just like a R/C car...
It revved it out in the driveway for a good two or three minutes before I ran out of nitro in the tank.
A few lessons: the fuel pump is able to over pressure the float needle because fuel is pouring out the carb bowl vents (all three at the same time!
) so I'm going to have to do something about that.
It's WAYYYYYY rich on gasoline (I purged the system with mixed gasoline after the nitro ran out) because it would barely rev and pop running gasoline. On the nitro my *guesses* at jet size were MUCH closer because besides pouring castor oil out the silencer it ran pretty well.
20 degrees of ignition timing advance may not be enough LMAO! Obviously I have a LOT of work to do on jetting but it seemed like it wanted more than I was willing to give it in the driveway.
The pipe is about the same tone and intensity as the F7 on old yeller. Maybe, as Conq8uest7 said, it'll be a whole different sound to it once it's swinging about 10K but outside just now, even revving it up pretty well it was making more noise from the pod filter on the carb than from the silencer.
Video tomorrow boys!
I hooked up a single stock ignition system for testing, micro drilled the pilot and main jets out and poured a little bit of 10% nitro blend in the tank. After a few disheartening "puffs" it sputtered to life. I immediately adjusted the PJ38 idle screw setting and turned the choke off and it actually cleared its throat and ran!!!! At first I could tell it was that old stinky mix gasoline and then the sweet sweet smell came pouring out of that pipe.... just like a R/C car...
It revved it out in the driveway for a good two or three minutes before I ran out of nitro in the tank.
A few lessons: the fuel pump is able to over pressure the float needle because fuel is pouring out the carb bowl vents (all three at the same time!
) so I'm going to have to do something about that. It's WAYYYYYY rich on gasoline (I purged the system with mixed gasoline after the nitro ran out) because it would barely rev and pop running gasoline. On the nitro my *guesses* at jet size were MUCH closer because besides pouring castor oil out the silencer it ran pretty well.
20 degrees of ignition timing advance may not be enough LMAO! Obviously I have a LOT of work to do on jetting but it seemed like it wanted more than I was willing to give it in the driveway.
The pipe is about the same tone and intensity as the F7 on old yeller. Maybe, as Conq8uest7 said, it'll be a whole different sound to it once it's swinging about 10K but outside just now, even revving it up pretty well it was making more noise from the pod filter on the carb than from the silencer.
Video tomorrow boys!
IT LIVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I hooked up a single stock ignition system for testing, micro drilled the pilot and main jets out and poured a little bit of 10% nitro blend in the tank. After a few disheartening "puffs" it sputtered to life. I immediately adjusted the PJ38 idle screw setting and turned the choke off and it actually cleared its throat and ran!!!! At first I could tell it was that old stinky mix gasoline and then the sweet sweet smell came pouring out of that pipe.... just like a R/C car...
It revved it out in the driveway for a good two or three minutes before I ran out of nitro in the tank.
A few lessons: the fuel pump is able to over pressure the float needle because fuel is pouring out the carb bowl vents (all three at the same time!
It's WAYYYYYY rich on gasoline (I purged the system with mixed gasoline after the nitro ran out) because it would barely rev and pop running gasoline. On the nitro my *guesses* at jet size were MUCH closer because besides pouring castor oil out the silencer it ran pretty well.
20 degrees of ignition timing advance may not be enough LMAO! Obviously I have a LOT of work to do on jetting but it seemed like it wanted more than I was willing to give it in the driveway.
The pipe is about the same tone and intensity as the F7 on old yeller. Maybe, as Conq8uest7 said, it'll be a whole different sound to it once it's swinging about 10K but outside just now, even revving it up pretty well it was making more noise from the pod filter on the carb than from the silencer.
Video tomorrow boys!
glad to hear!!! I:I
Alright, near disaster this morning for the blasty and its owner!
I remember seeing someone on here a month or two ago who had the same problem and I just couldn't believe it.... now I'm a believer.
The clutch basket drive gear that engages with the starter assembly idler gear actually exploded during a little kick back this morning. I'll get pictures of the carnage later today. It basically didn't hurt anything but the gear itself as it cracked straight in half and the engine just happened to knock off at that moment.
I am a lucky packratter though. I happened to have another outer clutch basket laying on the shelf so I tried prying the gear off that one to put it on the billet basket. That's when real disaster struck. The gear is nearly a press fit on the little bushing that goes through the clutch basket and I was prying up on the gear and it just POPPED off the bushing all of the sudden. The gear came up and hit me IN THE EYE! I stumbled around the driveway for a few seconds before laying down on the rocks and nearly getting sick to my stomach. I have a little scratch on the eyeball itself but no other permanent damage thankfully.... I can still see out of it but I thought I couldn't there for a minute or two.
Anyway, a few lessons.... first wear safety glasses all the time even when you don't think you need them LOL Shoulda had mine on but wasn't thinking about it.
The mikuni DF52 is overpowering the float needle and causing the engine to flood. It's a damn good pump.... just too much pressure. I'm going to make a bypass type pressure regulator from a brass "t", spring, and ball bearing so the float will be able to regulate the amount of fuel in the float bowl.
I changed up some jetting already. I switched back to a 175 main, a drilled pilot, and a 80 mikuni power jet. It seems to rev cleaner than before. Amazingly it was running and revving with the larger jets in it.... it was just spraying liquid out the end of the tailpipe.
The vibration from the lack of counterbalancer would be annoying on a trail quad but doesn't seem to be too bad on this machine. I mean, this thing vibrates but considering The rider isn't going to be on it for hours at a time, it seems managable.
I remember seeing someone on here a month or two ago who had the same problem and I just couldn't believe it.... now I'm a believer.
The clutch basket drive gear that engages with the starter assembly idler gear actually exploded during a little kick back this morning. I'll get pictures of the carnage later today. It basically didn't hurt anything but the gear itself as it cracked straight in half and the engine just happened to knock off at that moment.
I am a lucky packratter though. I happened to have another outer clutch basket laying on the shelf so I tried prying the gear off that one to put it on the billet basket. That's when real disaster struck. The gear is nearly a press fit on the little bushing that goes through the clutch basket and I was prying up on the gear and it just POPPED off the bushing all of the sudden. The gear came up and hit me IN THE EYE! I stumbled around the driveway for a few seconds before laying down on the rocks and nearly getting sick to my stomach. I have a little scratch on the eyeball itself but no other permanent damage thankfully.... I can still see out of it but I thought I couldn't there for a minute or two.
Anyway, a few lessons.... first wear safety glasses all the time even when you don't think you need them LOL Shoulda had mine on but wasn't thinking about it.
The mikuni DF52 is overpowering the float needle and causing the engine to flood. It's a damn good pump.... just too much pressure. I'm going to make a bypass type pressure regulator from a brass "t", spring, and ball bearing so the float will be able to regulate the amount of fuel in the float bowl.
I changed up some jetting already. I switched back to a 175 main, a drilled pilot, and a 80 mikuni power jet. It seems to rev cleaner than before. Amazingly it was running and revving with the larger jets in it.... it was just spraying liquid out the end of the tailpipe.
The vibration from the lack of counterbalancer would be annoying on a trail quad but doesn't seem to be too bad on this machine. I mean, this thing vibrates but considering The rider isn't going to be on it for hours at a time, it seems managable.
And no, I didn't forget you guys! 
It didn't have much fuel in it because I had already pumped it out the carb bowl vents at the very end, it ran out of fuel. Luckily it just shuts down when it runs out...
The pipe is NOT that loud. Most of the "bog" noise you can hear in the video is the carburetor...
It didn't have much fuel in it because I had already pumped it out the carb bowl vents
at the very end, it ran out of fuel. Luckily it just shuts down when it runs out...The pipe is NOT that loud. Most of the "bog" noise you can hear in the video is the carburetor...
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damn u got lucky bro, regardless of what I'm doing I wear my glasses and they also h e little led lights on em, they are awesome. It sounds nasty as hell dude!! I hope u get to ride it before she goes to busco. Be careful with everything u do man no need to lose limbs over the bike.
FWIW: I just ran a return hose to the tank with a jet in it for our karts. You can micro drill the jet till it's the right relief
How do you balance the carburetors increased fuel demands at higher throttle? An orifice bleeds off volume not pressure. I want a bleed off pressure, not volume.
What I want to do is make a spring loaded pressure regulator that will bleed off pressure right below the point needed to overpower the float needle. The flooding seems to be worse just after I chop the throttle but decrease under full throttle (which you can see from the video I can't hold for a split second) suggesting the the carb jetting can gobble down all of the fuel the DF52 can pump at WOT but not under WOT.
Can't you just let it flood the floatbowl and just run the overflow tube back to the fuel tank?
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