When it rains it pours!
- Thread starter sicivicdude
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nice job dude, is it adjustable?...looks like the wheel is sittin pretty high right now..i think i read somewhere that perfect height is like 3 inches off the ground
Not right now, I'm going to get a linkage to allow it to adjust when I get back. Right now it's just quick disconnect (hitch pins) but I can tell you, at the busco beach sand drag, 3 inches will have the back wheel digging into the track the whole way. They froth that sand into the consistency of cake batter by adding water and turning it over with a drag and spike setup. The wheelie tire set 3" off the ground would be sitting in the sand at the starting line LOL.
Mine is set about 5" off the ground right now.
thats a good way to put it "cake batter", thats exactly what it looked like last yr...waaay to wet, but i guess it hooks up good with the right tire combo
WAAAYYYYY too wet is apparently the way they like it. It will hook up with deeper paddles with it frothed and soaked like that. Makes the busco sand drag a quicker track than others which are dry sand.
There is one advantage to having it sopping wet.... no dust from the drag strip...
There is one advantage to having it sopping wet.... no dust from the drag strip...
The tank filler neck and cap, clutch inner hub, and reed spacer arrived today. I got the neck welded onto the tank and tested flow rate (didn't forget about your question there tater) and it flows as well out the brass hose barb with the lid on as it does with the lid off. The venting isn't actually THAT good... it's two small holes in the middle of the lid, but it allows enough air in not to air lock the tank.
Pics are a bit dark, I'll take better ones tomorrow but here goes:
The lid and neck look like an old gas tank... it's AWESOME!
I got the entire clutch assembly on and torqued down, cut out a gasket, installed the stainless hardware and filled the transmission up with ATF type F fluid. That should be taken care of...
I also did a little doodle on the poly I got from tater (thanks dude, it's AWESOME too) and I'm going to carry it down to the machine shop tomorrow to drill the holes and cut it out, everything I have here is for cutting metal and the small teeth clog easily with plastic, LOL my bandsaw got about a half an inch into it before it stopped cutting...
I welded the stock rear chain slider bracket back onto the swingarm in its new location and tensioned the chain up on the sprockets for the first time. I need to find another 520 master link and some new bolts for the tensioner assemblies and that'll be done. I'm going to get the swing arm parts all finished up tomorrow and the swing arm painted so it can be reassembled.
Hopefully I'm going to also get the call from the machine shop to come pick up my cylinder tomorrow too. It usually takes them about 3 days to get one all done including transit time back and forth to their local store.
The name of this thread is apt as well, let me tell you.... last week the brakes on my Accord started squeaking (the squealers were telling me to change the pads) so I did a front brake job on that yesterday. Today I drove the dodge up to meet my wife for dinner and turning back into the driveway I heard the tale-tell whine of the power steering system.... The truck is a 1999 model with 156,000 miles on it and has literally had NOTHING done to it other than fluid changes, a tune-up, and some unrelated axle/brake work in the last 7 years so I can't really complain. I popped the hood and there is power steering fluid EVERYWHERE across the frame rail/belt/hose/inner fender liner/radiator shroud. I traced the source to the high pressure hose by a little puddle standing on swaged end just off the pump. Looks like I'm going to be putting a power steering hose on the dodge this weekend in addition to ALL of the other stuff I have to do...
Pics are a bit dark, I'll take better ones tomorrow but here goes:
The lid and neck look like an old gas tank... it's AWESOME!
I got the entire clutch assembly on and torqued down, cut out a gasket, installed the stainless hardware and filled the transmission up with ATF type F fluid. That should be taken care of...
I also did a little doodle on the poly I got from tater (thanks dude, it's AWESOME too) and I'm going to carry it down to the machine shop tomorrow to drill the holes and cut it out, everything I have here is for cutting metal and the small teeth clog easily with plastic, LOL my bandsaw got about a half an inch into it before it stopped cutting...
I welded the stock rear chain slider bracket back onto the swingarm in its new location and tensioned the chain up on the sprockets for the first time. I need to find another 520 master link and some new bolts for the tensioner assemblies and that'll be done. I'm going to get the swing arm parts all finished up tomorrow and the swing arm painted so it can be reassembled.
Hopefully I'm going to also get the call from the machine shop to come pick up my cylinder tomorrow too. It usually takes them about 3 days to get one all done including transit time back and forth to their local store.
The name of this thread is apt as well, let me tell you.... last week the brakes on my Accord started squeaking (the squealers were telling me to change the pads) so I did a front brake job on that yesterday. Today I drove the dodge up to meet my wife for dinner and turning back into the driveway I heard the tale-tell whine of the power steering system.... The truck is a 1999 model with 156,000 miles on it and has literally had NOTHING done to it other than fluid changes, a tune-up, and some unrelated axle/brake work in the last 7 years so I can't really complain. I popped the hood and there is power steering fluid EVERYWHERE across the frame rail/belt/hose/inner fender liner/radiator shroud. I traced the source to the high pressure hose by a little puddle standing on swaged end just off the pump. Looks like I'm going to be putting a power steering hose on the dodge this weekend in addition to ALL of the other stuff I have to do...
looks good bud, keep up the good work, cant wait for runnin vids
what type of motor u got in the civic,b series? turbo size? boost?
i know EXACTLY what ur sayin man my wifes crv at 199998 miles sh*t a radiator and a starter and the idler pulley, only problems in 12 yrs of ownership. little stuff to fix now, window sprayer, power steering. nothing major.
more pics!!
what type of motor u got in the civic,b series? turbo size? boost?
i know EXACTLY what ur sayin man my wifes crv at 199998 miles sh*t a radiator and a starter and the idler pulley, only problems in 12 yrs of ownership. little stuff to fix now, window sprayer, power steering. nothing major.
more pics!!
that really make me want a TIG! looks good man!!! yeah that polypropelene is some nice material, but as you said you need the right tooling to work with it. your quite welcome, im glad you like it! now get busy!!...lol.... i feel ya.
The ability to weld aluminum is NICEEEEEEE but the process of welding aluminum is DIFFICULT LMAO. Getting aluminum welded isn't as easy as it looks and getting it to look like professional weld job is even harder!
I trolled Craigslist for about 5 months before I found mine. I got an older model (it uses more power than the fancy dancy new ones) with a minimal setup and got it ready to run myself. AC/DC tig welders usually run in the $1,000 range setup and ready to run no matter how old or small they are. I took a chance on mine for $500 and it works beautifully.
I brought it to work today, I'm going to head over to the shop at lunch while the guys are out and see if I can't trim it down to size.
I'll take more daylight pics this afternoon...
OFF TOPIC POST!!!!! hehe
Our 2003 Honda Accord has given us very little trouble as well. The good news is, the trouble it has given us has been easily remedied... Brake job, idler pulley, and a starter... The starter was the most daunting task from the outset and it took approximately 45 minutes start to finish!
I pulled the upper intake manifold off, pulled the starter off, put the new one on, stuck the upper intake manifold back on and started up the car. Took me WAYYYY less time than I was thinking considering where the starter is located... Those friggin Japs thought of EVERYTHING!
The CRX is a '91 single slam D16 running a stock map sensor (so 11lbs max) chipped running turboedit. T3/T4 hybrid knockoff, 440cc DSM injectors, AEM fuel rail and regulator, MSD out of cap ignition coil, and a walbro 225lph pump. I *estimate* horsepower at a measly 260whp out of an car which had about 90whp from the factory. I jumped on a SRT-4 with a "stage-1" mopar package from a 10mph roll and stayed right beside him up through 5th gear. We were changing positions on the gearshifts only. I also had a buddy with a Mazdaspeed protege running a fuel cut defender who didn't want any of it either...
In typical Sicivicdude fashion, I made the charge tubes by hand, the entire exhaust system (header, downpipe, midpipe, all the way to the back bumper), chipped and street tuned it, as well as built the engine myself.
I also fabricated the blow-off valve from scratch...
damn dude mad props I've built 240sx's put a t-4 on the ka24de, did the upgraded fuel pump 500cc injectors, under pulleys, put a porsche blow off valve on it did a swap on one dropped a sr20 before but never fabbed any parts myself, too much stuff to list that car was a beast I was over 400whp on the ka and like 300 on the sr20, mad props to ur fab in skillz, back on topic!!!
that tanks is wicked man u got some welding skillz, though about making a full on drag frame?
that tanks is wicked man u got some welding skillz, though about making a full on drag frame?
you know, I think I'm ok where I'm at. I kinda like the idea of doing a drag blaster while still retaining a completely stock frame..... I think even if this engine doesn't make it, I'm going to keep this frame/suspension setup and go back to the drawing board about the engine to make a competitive dragger out of it.
That last picture of the swingarm/slider looks like it's all crooked but actually only the rear sprocket is crooked.... I didn't use the tensioners to pull it tight or anything, just stuck the two bolts through and started the nuts to take the picture, it was threatening rain tonight and I needed to get it a roller, pictures taken, and back into the garage before the bottom fell out.
The tank is AWESOME and the poly is AWESOME, simply put.
I worked a bit on the ignition system and the fuel system tonight. I selected the jets I'm going to solder over and micro drill out to "make my own", mounted the fuel pump and routed the fuel lines. I'm using standard rubber hose which won't hold up to the fuel but for the length of time it'll be exposed and the cost of the methanol compatible replacement, I'll bring an extra few feet and just switch it out halfway through the weekend (if it makes it that far). I mounted the fuel pump onto the rear most front fender mounting tab (the one on the frame itself, not the big bracket that bolts on)and siptied the front mounting loop to the frame. I planned on making a bracket to fit it but think this works about as well and still allows easy access to clean it out every night.
The machine shop didn't call me today
I'm hoping they got it back late this afternoon and just didn't call before they closed and they'll get around to calling me tomorrow sometime to tell me to come pick it up. I'm hoping to have it in hand tomorrow so I can put the cylinder down and have the engine complete.
I slotted out the stator plate mounting holes out to like 20 degrees advance and stripped out a stock wiring harness. I'm going to use the lighting coil wire as the second source coil wire and inside the wiring harness connect the trigger coil to both parallel ignition systems. Their only connections will be the trigger coil, kill switch (tether cord), and spark plug topper. Otherwise I'll have two complete ignition systems on this blaster working independently.
The tank is AWESOME and the poly is AWESOME, simply put.
I worked a bit on the ignition system and the fuel system tonight. I selected the jets I'm going to solder over and micro drill out to "make my own", mounted the fuel pump and routed the fuel lines. I'm using standard rubber hose which won't hold up to the fuel but for the length of time it'll be exposed and the cost of the methanol compatible replacement, I'll bring an extra few feet and just switch it out halfway through the weekend (if it makes it that far). I mounted the fuel pump onto the rear most front fender mounting tab (the one on the frame itself, not the big bracket that bolts on)and siptied the front mounting loop to the frame. I planned on making a bracket to fit it but think this works about as well and still allows easy access to clean it out every night.
The machine shop didn't call me today
I'm hoping they got it back late this afternoon and just didn't call before they closed and they'll get around to calling me tomorrow sometime to tell me to come pick it up. I'm hoping to have it in hand tomorrow so I can put the cylinder down and have the engine complete. I slotted out the stator plate mounting holes out to like 20 degrees advance and stripped out a stock wiring harness. I'm going to use the lighting coil wire as the second source coil wire and inside the wiring harness connect the trigger coil to both parallel ignition systems. Their only connections will be the trigger coil, kill switch (tether cord), and spark plug topper. Otherwise I'll have two complete ignition systems on this blaster working independently.
if you purge the fuel system really good i think the standard fuel lines will hold up pretty long. depends on how long that mix is in there also though.
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