water cooled head, questions

sporty982000

New Member
Jul 10, 2012
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Illinois
Been trying to search and read anything on this, including the dt200 and wr200.


Question, I have, Seen that $250 kit for sale.


I cant seem to find, what I hope is out there, someone who took the blaster engine and put a water cooled system in, and what they all use and what it cost them. Not meaning the kit that was mentioned before.

And not so much about the dt200.

But some real mods.

If I had the specs and diagram and info on a custom water cooled head. I could likely have one made, pretty cheap for me. my friends own there own machine shop.

But I couldnt find that info. I asume many like likely to share that info. For just the same reason I was wanting it. To make my own.

But I am stumped totally on what is being used for thermostat, ect. I tried finding some of that info, but perhaps missed it.

Are they using a pump or thermostat ? both ? what kind of pump and ect.


If you know where some of this info is on the form, can you link it for me.

Thank You.
 
Im wondering, if anyone has ever contacte yamaha and tried to find out, what parts will fit on the blaster engine. Since we all have seen what looks like a glimpses for this engine to have water cooled.

This might really help us, try and locate those parts.
 
Im wondering, if anyone has ever contacte yamaha and tried to find out, what parts will fit on the blaster engine. Since we all have seen what looks like a glimpses for this engine to have water cooled.

This might really help us, try and locate those parts.

Yamaha will tell you that 1988-2006 yamaha blaster parts fit on the yamaha blaster.... and that's all. They're not going to take ANY responsibility for any damage that could incur from telling you anything else.

Most liquid cooled 2 strokes don't have a thermostat. They're "convectively controlled" which basically means nothing at all and the coolant passes through the radiator as fast as possible....

That liquid cooled head has a small water pump supplied with the kit. I've never seen one personally installed where I could actually inspect the pump (as it's the most elusive part) and see what it is. I would suspect that it's a small radial impeller pump running off the lighting coil (somehow).

You could adapt a earlier model DT200 cylinder onto a blaster bottom end however the CDI "brain" on the DT also controls electrically the power valve. Without that controller, the powervalve wouldn't move and you'd lose some of the advantage of having a DT200 top end.
 
Ya its a bummer of a complex issue. Thats for sure.


Years ago, I modiefied the kids power wheels, to go faster, and one of the things, I ended up doing was wrapping copper tubbing around the motors and installing a small pond pump and a sealed tubberware like bowl, and it kept it cool.

Man I got those little things to run fast.

Im more of less in agreement with a few comments I have read, unless I can cool the cylinder, I dont see how just the head does all that much for cooling.

I grabbed a bunch of photos off ebay of the wr200 and dt200, head and water pump, ect.
 
i think mcdizzy.com has a whole write up on the dt swap ?
 
The 86-89 (I believe) DT200's were quite compatible with the blaster engines. The later models were WR/YZ based and won't swap easily.

The way to take a blaster bottom end and use a DT top end (without TOO much complication) is to do a DC swap on the lighting system (DT's had DC charging systems and batteries).

Put the DT 200 wiring harness and CDI controller on the blaster frame.

Yank the back two cylinder mounting studs out of the blaster bottom end and replace with the long studs from the DT200.

Put the DT200 cylinder and head on the blaster bottom end (same basically transfer/mounting pattern design so it will more or less "bolt right up")

Source a late 80's DT125 clutch cover (same design as the blaster and DT but uses the primary drive gear like a blaster instead of the higher ratio in the DT200) and water pump assembly.

Mount any number on configurations for a radiator (anything that'll cool down that engine basically)

Route the hoses from the water pump to the radiator.
 
Obviously, no part of that ^^^^^ is what I would call easy. Now, if you're not located in the sahara desert I would have to question why it is you're contemplating liquid cooling. In all but the hottest places on Earth, the air cooled blaster works quite well when it's setup and jetted properly. Something like 30% of the cooling capacity of an air cooled 2 stroke engine comes directly from the incoming fuel charge. If that's not the proper mixture (jetting) you're running the risk of overheating the engine.
 
I believe Triplecrown's DT200 was a 1984 and its clutch cover with waterpump was a direct swap onto his Blaster. No plastic pump gear change like McDizzy suggests. I checked the fit and gear mesh out myself for him. Maybe the 84 had a different gear, I do not know... Also, we did not have to change the case studs. Didn't know about this and the stock ones worked fine. Neil did the conversion, rad and all, in a couple evenings that I recall.

Triplecrown is running the stock DT200 single radiator on the right side. Any MX bike rad would work and you can probably run both sides if you want. His quad tended to get hot with constant 8000 rpm screaming around the sand pit. Never boiled over but it would get hot, but then, high load, low speed, any quad would. That was the only time he got near to hot.

The DT200 cylinder can be run with the powervalve left in the open position. This is pretty much the same as an exhaust ported Blaster cylinder. The ports in the DT200 seem nearly identical to the Blaster with the exception of intakes and exhausts being 1mm higher. Again, there are threads on this by me, search them. I do not just now recommend raising the intake port, but I have to look at this more.

I do not have any picts of Triplecrown's swap, but do a search, he has posts and picts of the swap.

I am running a Kawi Ninja 250 thermostat on my KTM powered Blaster.
That is a Mojave 250 radiator (suggested by Yzotis), but may not fit with a Blaster pipe.
I have NO overheating problems, works great, other than the refill cap is under my fender.

196673_10150156145500803_667441_n.jpg


While you can run without a thermostat, I like them. Quicker to the power! Especially on a 2 stroke.

I grabbed this picture from the posted link for the watercooled head:

sideheadmounted.jpg.w300h400.jpg


The head itself would not be hard to make, Triplecrown and I have talked about making (or getting made, I don't have a lathe) a head like this to try out chamber shapes. 2 pieces of aluminum cut from bar stock and a couple "O" rings to seal them. Cost would still be over $100 to get it made AND you would still need a waterpump and rad. At $250 the kit is looking better and better all the time...

As for how effective a watercooled head would be at cooling the engine, the majority of the heat is generated in the first couple of mm of piston travel down from the head. I think the water cooled head would be pretty effective.

Edit: Heck, I just saw he is offering the head only for $90. I cannot get one made for that.
I emailed to inquire on shipping to Canada and will order one to test.
Wter cooled head link
 
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Damn, blasters were really the bees knees back in the day....

Wish I was around to own one during that time.


In the words of Mr."T": "Still are, FOOL!" I:I

Where else can you get a quad that weighs about as much as a street&trail motorcycle, and costs less than a 450 rebuild.
You are in the gravy years right now. It has never been better to be a Blaster owner.

Thanks Blaner! No word back on shipping to Canada yet...