Two rebuilds...underway

[Blaaster]

Expansion , contraction.

The head gasket is made from annealed copper (soft), sandwiched between aluminium.

If things have not changed since I studied expansion coefficients, Aluminium expands more than copper, therefore the copper gasket sandwich is compressed between the head and the cylinder.

I could have it the wrong way around, but one expands more than the other.

The heat cycles condition the gasket, which is then tensioned to specs.

Need I explain more?

 

[DeJay1206]

How about the front sprocket bolt (that holds the retainer and sprocket in place) and the flywheel nut. I need both of those as well. Anybody know the details on those two?

 

[Blaaster]

 

[DeJay1206]

You sir, are a lifesaver!

 

[Blaaster]

Courtesy of the online manual.

 

[DeJay1206]

Got the stator situated. Went to some dicks house and got everything swapped over to a new plate. Came home and installed the clutch and everything. When I put the primary drive gear big solid washer in I seated it properly. The crank seals are perfect. The only thing I see that is a little bit off is that the crank is slightly harder to rotate now that the big washer type thing is against the bearing and in between the crank seal. I torqued everything to spec and it spins freely, just with a little bit more pressure than before. I'm absolutely positive the seal isn't causing it, it's the big washer or whatever that goes inside the seal. Is this a cause for concern? As I said, it spins freely still, but a tad bit more pressure is needed. Not sure if the washer will push back out a bit and free up that tension or if it's supposed to tighten a little more when installed. Any info helps. Thanks in advance

 

[Blaaster]

I am absolutely sure that if it gets harder to turn when it gets tightened up that something is wrong.

Check, check and re check everything again.

 

[Larry's Shee]

Did you lube the collar/seal? And did you seal the collar/key to shaft? They sometimes can airleak there.

 

[DeJay1206]

I took it back apart and fixed it. The washer was pressed up against the bearings too tight. But yes, I did lube it and put Yamaha bond on it as well.

 

[DeJay1206]

So, second motor is officially LEAK FREE!! Gonna get the motor on the bike in the morning and get the heat cycles done

 

[DeJay1206]

Got mine running and did the heat cycles. Gonna clean out the carb tomorrow and putt it around to break the motor in. Only thing that needs done now is I need to get the axle straight... The rear sprocket has some side to side play and it also will move forward and backward about half a tooth before the wheel starts moving. I ordered a n axle bolt wrench so hopefully I can just tighten it up and it'll be good. Just worried about the front and back play on it...not sure if tightening the bolts will fix that or not...

 

[DeJay1206]

 

[DeJay1206]

Let me know what you guys think about that video and what needs done

 

[bummer981]

Looks like the splines are worn. try another sprocket hub to see if it is the hub or your axle.

 

[DeJay1206]

Looks like the splines are worn. try another sprocket hub to see if it is the hub or your axle.

What can happen if I ride it like that? I don't have the time to get a new hub before this weekend and Ive got a ride planned.

 

[Awk08]

Let me know what you guys think about that video and what needs done

yep, what bummer says,
90% of the time its the cast hub splines
if it has any play like that, every whack of the throttle wears it more until it completely strips out and you're walking home

 

[DeJay1206]

How do you replace the splines

 

[Awk08]

How do you replace the splines

you don't, you replace the whole hub or axle, whichever has the worn splines, possibly both ?

 

[DeJay1206]

Looks like I need a new axle!

 

[DeJay1206]

How long do they generally last the way this is now? I don't know when it started, probably a while ago.