I see roll to a stop, not coast until stopped...
either way, you could have welded your rods together
either way, you could have welded your rods together
Two rebuilds...underway
- Thread starter DeJay1206
- Start date
i give yah props for even plug chopping at all...
When i first got my blaster it had been run for 3 years with a full fmf exhaust and still on the stock 230. Did plug chops and got it dialed in at 280, I'd say that's a bit off
Whats the difference between roll an coast?
I see nothing wrong with what he did, the clutch rods only weld the ball at sustained high rpm clutch release, which only occurs if your retarded, yeah most of the time there stock to the rod on the pressure plate, but really how often is the engine torn down to the point of being at the internal clutch rod. Mines been 7yrs since I seen them rods, lots of time an hard riding, sure maybe when the time comes I need to change the crank again it will be stuck to the rod
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Thanks Blaster. Regardless, I'm good to go. This things running the best it's ever ran in it's 24 years on this earth, I can guarantee it!!
Argue as much as you care to, wether you coast to a stop or brake hard it will have no bearing on the result of the plug chop.
What coasting to a stop may do is the ball bearing in the clutch rod assembly could be subjected to heat caused by friction, resulting in the ball being welded to one of the push rods.
One should never hold the clutch lever in for extended periods at high speed/revs it is poor riding practice.
What coasting to a stop may do is the ball bearing in the clutch rod assembly could be subjected to heat caused by friction, resulting in the ball being welded to one of the push rods.
One should never hold the clutch lever in for extended periods at high speed/revs it is poor riding practice.
I understand that, but there's no way to do a plug chop without coming to a stop while holding in the clutch. Whether it's for one second or ten... So plug chops must be poor riding practice...
The idea is to come to rest as quickly as possible to avoid stress on the push rods and ball bearing.
Read my post again, the word extended is the operative word.
There are things called brakes on a Blaster and they can stop you very quickly.
Lol, blasters don't have the best braking systems. So, looks like I'm screwed. Can't coast, can't stop.
I always wondered what that lever by the throttle was...
I always wondered what that lever by the throttle was...
This is the thread that is stickied as the thread to refer to for proper jetting and plug chops..
As soon as the bike tops out, pull the clutch in, and kill the engine, coasting to a stop.
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/jetting-and-plug-chop-guide.46141/
Think maybe we should update the threads that we refer people to when they ask about proper plug chop techniques if the information is false... Because then you have someone who is doing EXACTLY what he was told to do by everyone he asks for advise from and then even after proving that he did exactly as he was told...is still wrong.
Back to the topic at hand... The blaster is running perfect. Luckily my poor technique worked this time. The top end of my other bike is getting fine tuned. I should have it back within the next few days and then I can get the motor put back together and get my new F7 on there and do some ripping! I will post another video of a plug chop when I am doing my other bike so that we have a good plug chop video to refer people to...
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So, I ordered everything that I need to get my other bike running. Everythign should be here Friday, I'll put the motor back together and just wait for the top end to get back. Once the top end gets back, I'm going to put the top end on, torque everything to spec, install it on the bike, and get the heat cycles started! Hopefully it goes that easy.... LOL
There are a few threads on here detailing them and a good O'Connor racing video on how to do them on YouTube.
Basically you're getting the motor up to operating temperature and then letting it cool off. Retorquing the head and base nuts and doing heat cycle again. Repeat two or three times. You are trying to get the gaskets to set properly. If heat cycles aren't done, you run the risk of an air leak causing lean condions...and potentially destroying your top end and crank
Here's a pic of what happened when my bike was running lean because of a head nut that came off...
Hence why I am doing two rebuilds and not one lol
Am I correct in thinking that the reasoning for all the retightening is because the heat causes everything to expand.
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