Two rebuilds...underway

When the engine was faltering, what was the throttle position. We're you on the needle or WOT?

When you first took off, how warm was the engine, it sounded like it was not completely warm before you gave it throttle.

How long since rebuild?

Have you leak tested and done all the pre tuning requirements with the carb.

It was warmed up, I went around the block a few times after warming up, then took the video. I will say that I went again and did the same thing and it ran much better after letting it warm up longer.

I was on the needle, haven't gotten it WOT yet as I haven't run a whole tank of gas through yet.

This was the first ride since I rebuilt.

And yes, I leak tested and it passed :)

Also added a 310 main to it.
 
When the engine was faltering, what was the throttle position. We're you on the needle or WOT?

When you first took off, how warm was the engine, it sounded like it was not completely warm before you gave it throttle.

How long since rebuild?

Have you leak tested and done all the pre tuning requirements with the carb.

It was warmed up, I went around the block a few times after warming up, then took the video. I will say that I went again and did the same thing and it ran much better after letting it warm up longer.

I was on the needle, haven't gotten it WOT yet as I haven't run a whole tank of gas through yet.

This was the first ride since I rebuilt.

And yes, I leak tested and it passed :)

Also added a 310 main to it.
 
Whatever was causing the falter will have been caused by either the idle setting and/or the needle setting.

The main jet would not have had any say in the problem as you were not on it in any way.

The faltering at the start of the run may have been caused by excess fuel in the crankcase, 2 strokes have a habit of needing clearing out by throttle blipping before giving them throttle.

Idle adjusting.

Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
 
Last edited:
I am talking about having the idle set as per specs.

Unless the idle is set correctly, there is no chance that the engine will perform properly.

The float level too must be set correctly to allow proper fuel pickup.

Idle adjusting.

Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: DeJay1206
Air screw is 1 1/2 out, carb has just been thoroughly cleaned, float is at 21 1/2.

Seems like it's the tors screw. It's definitely not idling at 2000rpms . I set it low cause I figured it should be lower. Didn't realize that the desired idle is a higher idle! Looks likebthatll fix my problem. I'll check back in the morning after I adjust it and let you guys know.
 
Now, the tors screw also determines how fast the motor comes down from throttle to idle, correct? If it'd not set properly won't it take an abnormally long time to come back to idle?
 
Not wanting to harp, but just setting the airscrew does not constitute setting the idle, it is only a starting point.

The idle must be set as per specs.

A poofteenth of a turn on the idle screw can make a huge difference in the AFR up to 1/4 throttle and the middle of the needle.
 
Now, the tors screw also determines how fast the motor comes down from throttle to idle, correct? If it'd not set properly won't it take an abnormally long time to come back to idle?
Incorrect, the TORS idle screw adjusts the speed of idle.

The air screw is the one that controls the AFR and the time it takes for the idle to come to rest.
 
Awesome. I'm sure that what it is. I would assume that if the tors is set too low for idle that it'll take longer to get going when you hit the throttle. Makes sense, and is probably the root of my problem.
 
If the idle is set too low and the airscrew is in the incorrect position it naturally will take the engine a little time to respond.

Wether the setting is to allow a rich idle or a lean idle, it will take a little while for the needle to correct it when the throttle is opened.

As you are finding, engine tuning is not to be sneezed at, it is a fine art.

It is a shame that more people will not take the trouble get it right, lots of folks just ride in ignorance and suffer the consequences of a cooked piston.

It is apparent that you are truly wanting to do the right thing to get the engine running right.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DeJay1206
Well, I've been thoufhba few rebuilds already from negligence. Had to learn the hard way.


Bdut yeah, I'll adjust the idle and get back to you tomorrow.

Thanks for all the help man.
 
Got some new shoes today as well...

16m0xad.jpg
 
I havnt checked it ever, but it was fine before. I just removed the headlight and never put it back on and lost my bulb. Never gave me problems before.