Hi all, I just bought a 2000 Blaster I could use some help with. I’m a little familiar with them as among my family we have a total of 4 blasters but this one is a little unique. One of the previous owners had put a brand new carburetor on it, and the guy I bought it from never really had time to fool with it. It runs great- I’ve blasted it around our block a few times, but it will not idle. Doesn’t matter if you’re just trying to idle in neutral or slowing down, as soon as you let off the throttle it dies. I was thinking maybe something in the carb but not totally sure. I also got the stock carb from them, so I put it on to see if the new one just needed adjusting, but the stock one wouldn’t idle either and also bogged down under throttle so I scrapped that idea. I decided to pop the new one apart and it has a 135 main jet, but not sure what size pilot it has because it didn’t have a number stamped on it. I also noticed that the air screw was only a 1/2 turn out, so I turned it out to 1 1/2 and then 2 turns and it made no difference, so I’m starting to wonder if I have an issue else where. It has the oil pump deleted and is premixed, and the guy said he thinks he mixed it a little rich. Besides the new carb it also has a new plug- haven’t looked at it yet. Thing runs and rides great just want to get it to idle so I can let it warm up properly before riding without having the hold the throttle a little lol. I’m not sure what brand the new carb is as I didn’t buy it and I can’t really find any markings on it. I took some pics of it but it won’t let me upload them but I attached a pic of the pilot jet. Thanks in advance for the tips everyone, excited to learn even more about these! They are fun little quads, we’re currently rebuilding the other 3 after blowing them all up lol.
Tuning help
- Thread starter Nick Migues
- Start date
Ditch that china carb before you fry it, 135 main sounds like a scooter carb.
put the stock carb back on it, ZERO other carbs come with the jetting required by a blaster.
set float height 20-21.5 mm.... https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/float-heights-and-how-to-adjust-them.50565/
32.5 pilot, airscrew at 1.5 turns out to start, tune 1/4 turns +/- to find highest idle, allow 15 seconds between turns.
stock needle/middle clip position #(?)
230 main jet (stock pipe/filter/airbox lid on) any mods will need main jet increases
put the stock carb back on it, ZERO other carbs come with the jetting required by a blaster.
set float height 20-21.5 mm.... https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/float-heights-and-how-to-adjust-them.50565/
32.5 pilot, airscrew at 1.5 turns out to start, tune 1/4 turns +/- to find highest idle, allow 15 seconds between turns.
stock needle/middle clip position #(?)
230 main jet (stock pipe/filter/airbox lid on) any mods will need main jet increases
Alright so I finally got back into it today. It has all the stock components in the stock carb- 230 main jet, 32.5 pilot. I did notice the idle screw was turned in all the way so I started with 1.5 and right now I’m at 1 3/4 turns. Not sure what the needle is at, haven’t gotten into that yet. I also noticed that the fuel filter someone added was backwards in terms of flow, and I changed the gas to gas I had mixed at 32:1 (it is a premix bike). The stock carb which I also cleaned seemed to run better- I didn’t ride it anywhere but it sounded better than when I had previously put it on- but the bike does not idle. As soon as you let go of the throttle no matter where you’re holding it at, it just dies. Wont idle on choke or anything. The only mods that I am aware of other than that new carb is they removed the key for some reason so it’s always on until you flip the kill switch. Stumped on this one.
All I did was take the choke from the new aftermarket because the OEM one wouldn’t hold it open anymore. Other then that the stock carb is just that, totally stock. Oh and the needle and whatever that little gold barrel is are new as well. When I have time I’m gonna pop the needle off to see what setting it’s at.
Definitely put the mikuni oem needle back in. Middle position. Or you will have issues.
If you lost the original you can buy another from jetsrus or sudco. And other places
WTF is "A little gold barrel" ?? Every carb has six parts that ALL affect the tuning of a carb. And china carbs rarely have any of them right !!
Main jet
Pilot jet
Choke jet (it's in the bottom of the float bowl)
Slide cutaway
Needle
Needle jet/emulsion tube (little gold barrel ? )
Maybe idle air screw?
Who knows if any of the internal passages are even right.
Main jet
Pilot jet
Choke jet (it's in the bottom of the float bowl)
Slide cutaway
Needle
Needle jet/emulsion tube (little gold barrel ? )
Maybe idle air screw?
Who knows if any of the internal passages are even right.
Ok we can forget the China carb because it is gone lol. And yes by little gold barrel I meant the thing the needle sits in but I don’t know the name lol. Anyways it has all stock parts (with the exception of the spring for the throttle return and the cap that screws onto the carb. I replaced the needle with the stock one, and adjusted it to the middle. Has all the stock jetting. 1 3/4 turns out on the idle air screw. Still will not even try to idle. As soon as you stop giving it throttle it cuts off. Doesn’t choke out like it’s starting to lean out and die, just cuts off like you turn the key or kill switch off. (Doesn’t have a key btw). I don’t get what would be causing this. Do I need to adjust the needle one more up? Something else?? I don’t get it
I also just noticed the screw on top of the TORS unit on top of the carb has 5 washers on the screw for some reason. I read else where that this an idle screw as well so I tried adjusting it out some and it made no difference and it was all the way in before hand. I wonder if this is an issue of some kind?
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Alright triple post lol. So I unhooked all of the TORS connectors- didn’t cut any wires or remove any yet just unplugged. Still doesn’t want to idle, it acts like it might try but still nothing. I also noticed it’s starting to smoke a lot- thought it was the boot where the carb hooks to the engine because it did look cracked, stole one from our other blaster. Still smokes a lot both from the tailpipe and I noticed where the 2 pipes connect the boot is broke in half. Could that be causing my idle issue as well as the excessive smoke?
Edit: so I was inspecting my tailpipe and it’s smashed almost flat just before the muffler and it also has a nice glob of JB weld holding the pipe to the muffler. Gonna look for a new pipe and go from there
Edit: so I was inspecting my tailpipe and it’s smashed almost flat just before the muffler and it also has a nice glob of JB weld holding the pipe to the muffler. Gonna look for a new pipe and go from there
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The tors brick on top of the carb more than likely has worn parts. Not sure why the washers are there? Maybe to keep screw tight so it doesn't fall out.im thinking.
Try taking one washer out and screw it back in. Turning screw in raises idle. Out decreases it.
Try only one washer removed at a time.
As it can increase the idle to much.
I think that will work. But if not get a tors delete kit . which will get ride of the brick on top of the carb . comes with new idle screw and cap
Try taking one washer out and screw it back in. Turning screw in raises idle. Out decreases it.
Try only one washer removed at a time.
As it can increase the idle to much.
I think that will work. But if not get a tors delete kit . which will get ride of the brick on top of the carb . comes with new idle screw and cap
Alright everyone back again after a long hiatus of not being able to mess with it. Today I tried a lot of different things. First things first, I put a FMF Powercore 2 silencer on it(still has stock pipes in front of that), still did not idle. I then switched out the carb with another factory blaster carb, the one that I took the FMF silencer off of, not sure what the main jet was as there was no inscribing on it, still nothing. Tried adjusting the throttle cable both directions to see if that was hindering me and made no difference. Oh before I swapped the carb I messed with the factory one on it (which has all the stock settings), turn the idle screw out a turn as well as in one full turn(past the 2 1/2) and made no difference. The carb I swapped on was set at about 1 3/4 turns. Then I removed all of the washers except one just so the screw would be flush and ran that screw on the tors brick all the way in, still no idle. Then I decided to hook the tors back up and still no difference. Tried removing the air filter for more air flow, no difference. I decided to run around the block and it seemed pretty gutless compared to last time, and it smoked a lot. It almost seems like it’s getting way more oil then fuel, but it’s a premix bike that’s mixed 32:1, so it really doesn’t make any sense to me as to why this thing will not idle. Nothing I do makes any difference at all. Only thing I haven’t done is changed the spark plug but it had a brand new one in it. Currently doing a compression test and it has 130 PSI and it’s already been sitting about 20 minutes and hasn’t moved any. I am beyond stumped and really just wanna get this going.
I did try adjusting the throttle cable itself (at the handle, is there another way to adjust it as well?) and it made no difference. I think today I’m gonna try adjusting my needle to see if that does anything for me
I swapped the carb back and moved the needle down to the bottom position (the closest position to the carb) and it was definitely getting more fuel but still no idle. Definitely have to move it back up as it was flooding it out a little and way gutless. Didn’t have time to do much else as it’s been raining most of the day. Back to the drawing board I suppose.
I am beyond it at this point.. I set the needle up one spot and turned the air screw out a little bit and it runs much better but still no idle. So then I swapped the reeds with a different blaster that I knew worked. Still no idle. I have no idea what else to do to get this thing idling. It’s like if you’re off throttle something electrical kills it. I’ve tried this both with and without the TORS connected tho I haven’t cut out the tors yet. What could be causing this?? Do I need to cut out the TORS for it to be effective rather than just unplugging it? Could they have done something wrong when they removed the key??? I just don’t understand why it will not idle.
I also tried switching out my coil for another one, adjusting the screw on top of the tors in and out, tried unhooking and hooking up the TORS, nothing changes it. Could something not have enough voltage in the stater while it’s trying to idle to keep it alive?? Do I need a bigger pilot jet?? I am out of ideas.
I also tried switching out my coil for another one, adjusting the screw on top of the tors in and out, tried unhooking and hooking up the TORS, nothing changes it. Could something not have enough voltage in the stater while it’s trying to idle to keep it alive?? Do I need a bigger pilot jet?? I am out of ideas.
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Alright! I don’t even know if anyone reads my posts anymore, but I’ll share this and probably update the title of the post for someone to be able to find down the line for some help. I got it to idle! What happened was is one of the bolts holding the stator in broke, and the other came loose, so the stator was just bouncing around and wore itself out I think. I found this by testing the voltage in my coil wires, the orange one specifically, and was only getting about 4 volts when I kicked over. I put a stator from another one of our blasters on and sure enough it idles now! The only issue is my extractors and drill bits couldn’t reach my broken bolt so I lock tighted the one bolt I could put back in. Now just needs some tuning on the carb as she’s running a little fat now. Thanks for the advice and if nothing else not deleting my posts so I could talk my self through this lol. Thanks everyone!
