The diamond shaped one in the third picture is the exact same as what's on the lawn tractors. But will I NEED it? If the blaster tank does fit then will the gravity feed be good enough or did the Tri-Z's drink an ungodly amount of fuel and HAVE to have it?
Tri-Z swap when my LT is done
- Thread starter Chuckie25
- Start date
Not needed as long as the tank level is 3" over the carb, and the carb is a gravity feed type.
If the Tri-Z came with an over over carb tank and no pump, you are good.
If they came with a pump, you had better use the supplied pump.
If the Tri-Z came with an over over carb tank and no pump, and you want to run with a low tank, the rectangular pump is probably your best option, although I'd guess the tractor pump will probably work too. The pump you pictured is for dual carbs, but can be plumbed together for more flow. Most engines under 50hp would not use more than 14 lph.
The issues are flow and pressure. The smallest flow is 14 lph which is plenty. Most of these pumps are designed for gravity feed carbs and run at 1-2psi. The odd pump application out there may have a 7psi pressure which will overpower the inlet needle valve. I suppose you could check it yourself.
If the Tri-Z came with an over over carb tank and no pump, you are good.
If they came with a pump, you had better use the supplied pump.
If the Tri-Z came with an over over carb tank and no pump, and you want to run with a low tank, the rectangular pump is probably your best option, although I'd guess the tractor pump will probably work too. The pump you pictured is for dual carbs, but can be plumbed together for more flow. Most engines under 50hp would not use more than 14 lph.
The issues are flow and pressure. The smallest flow is 14 lph which is plenty. Most of these pumps are designed for gravity feed carbs and run at 1-2psi. The odd pump application out there may have a 7psi pressure which will overpower the inlet needle valve. I suppose you could check it yourself.
The Tri-Z had the fuel tank under the seat and Some had the pump on the frame, some built into the petcock. I guess its something I'll se to see once I get it mounted an all. Anyone know where I can get crank bearings cheap? I keep forgetting to call my local shops an see what they run.
And yea I realized after I posted that pump had a second outlet. The pump on the Yazoo is a single outlet. That's a hell of a mower. The carb has an accelerator pump in it for cripes sake! Lol
And yea I realized after I posted that pump had a second outlet. The pump on the Yazoo is a single outlet. That's a hell of a mower. The carb has an accelerator pump in it for cripes sake! Lol
I promised to post pictures once I got the engine and here's some better ones of it and the drag pipe. The ole FTZ needs a LOT of love man. It's been coated in grease to keep from completely rotting but it still is pretty rusty. Only surface rust though so she'll come clean! Until I get the new crank bearings I'm just gunna be tearing it down and cleaning/polishing/repainting stuff to make it look purty.
Is the motor sitting next to your bed? That would be an epic wakeup prank if someone started it.
LOL!! No that's on the coffee table in our living room next to the couch! That was my moms surprise when she walked in from work LMAO. It's seized up right now so it's soaking with PB blaster to free it up and it needs crank bearings. Need to start sanding on the pipes and get them Lookin gewd. Thinking f cold bluing them, black chrome ya know? How would that look?
First problem: carb and mystery curly pipe don't want to share space. The Rad valve intake puts the carb right in the middle of where that pipe wants to go. Any ideas? I want to keep my intake but don't want to HAVE to run the drag pipe cause this is a flat track bike
Thanks! I got the motor free and the topend torn down today. Needs clutch side crank bearins it feels and sounds like. Thought it was flywheel side, then there no slack in them, THEN I thought it was big end rod bearing and started cussin and all until I got the jug popped off and checked it and it's fine, then realized it has TONS of slop in the wrist pin bearing and the play and nous is coming from clutch side. I gotta find bearins that won't break my very low budget. My mom works at a autoparts store and can cross reference bearings if I had the part number but guess what!! I can't find the freaking part number anywhere!!
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Well, until I get 50-60 bucks to order stuff from Matt over at MHR I'm just doing cosmetic stuff on the motor
Sanded till my finger tips bled tonight (ouch) but it should finish polishing up niice
While I have the cases split to swap bearings I'll paint them. Either gun metal gray/silver or gloss black. Also need the little kicker cover. The back tab of mine is broke and since I'm not in regular high school anymore I can't get it welded back up in shop :-/
Sanded till my finger tips bled tonight (ouch) but it should finish polishing up niice
While I have the cases split to swap bearings I'll paint them. Either gun metal gray/silver or gloss black. Also need the little kicker cover. The back tab of mine is broke and since I'm not in regular high school anymore I can't get it welded back up in shop :-/
This often happens with swaps.
The idea seems so easy, but it gets bogged down in the detail, delayed and then forgotten.
I hope you keep going!
Steve
The idea seems so easy, but it gets bogged down in the detail, delayed and then forgotten.
I hope you keep going!
Steve
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