Tertal's 2002 Blaster

[tertal]

Well figured I would log my additions and modifications to my blaster. I'm very forgetful at remembering to take pictures during a process like this, but I will try my best!

Here it is the night I picked it up, sorry only one picture

UPS man showed up with my goodies today

heres the rear view befor

and after

flipped front wheels and this is how it sits now

So far I removed the fuel injector (thanks to the tips in the DIY section) and for the rear setup I Obviously got g-force spacers and I am running razr mx's on steel ITP's

 

[tertal]

now for the questions and such!

how does one go about doing this?

I hope the images are clear enough where you can see the flaw

now according to my eye and measurements everything seems to be square and not bent, BUT the skid. not only is it bent and the bolt is missing, but the mount it mounts to is in almost perfect condition... any tips to make sure threes no damage to my carrier, sprocket, and anything else in that area? It seems to run ok and runs very good in neutral..

anywho what rear skid do you guys recommend?



one last thing for today, in the picture below this was inside the oil tank, just cut it off?

 

[PikledBeats]

I'm not sure what we are looking at but cut everything that went to oil tank, then pull oil line to carb and plug carb etc. Lift up rear end and spin rear, listen for any binding, noise etc, in carrier, if it is not perfectly smooth it might be time to replace bearings. As far as skid goes, you will want to upgrade to one that also protects carrier, if mounts are straight you should be good. There are a few people with them for sale here. I've always preferred the GYTR ones myself and would buy one if I was gonna buy new. It would also be a good idea to get a belly skid so you don't damage your lower frame rails, keep engine safe. Good luck with build, glad to see a new member taking it on.

 

[alex90]

the stock blaster skids arent that bad honestly,,mine has lasted well in the rock infested landscape of arizona..with 18in rears it certainty has taken some abuse but when ever it gets bad i just take it off and beat it back to shape with a hammer and its good.. AC racing makes amazing skids but the downside of aluminum skids is that they tend to crack on the welds from big hits,,but is sort of a blessing in disguise since it absorbs the hit before destroying ur swinger n stuff

 

[Beaster_blaster]

the stock blaster skids arent that bad honestly,,mine has lasted well in the rock infested landscape of arizona..with 18in rears it certainty has taken some abuse but when ever it gets bad i just take it off and beat it back to shape with a hammer and its good.. AC racing makes amazing skids but the downside of aluminum skids is that they tend to crack on the welds from big hits,,but is sort of a blessing in disguise since it absorbs the hit before destroying ur swinger n stuff

Ive found its a pain in the butt to rebend the stock guard to normal after you have removed it. best plan id say is the re-tweek the guard while it is still on the bike. Loosen all bolts that are left and use a large screwdriver to tweek into place. use of a hammer may be needed if you hit a big big rock.

 

[tertal]

yea its pretty beat up as is, so just going to take a hammer to it, not really worried how it looks, as long as it works. I need to spend my money on parts that make it go fast anyway

 

[tertal]

well trying to re-shape the rear guard was unsuccessful seeing how beat to crap this one is, I don't think its even worth buying new.

 

[super noober]

nice start so far man, keep the pics coming!! I:I

 

[alex90]

Ive found its a pain in the butt to rebend the stock guard to normal after you have removed it. best plan id say is the re-tweek the guard while it is still on the bike. Loosen all bolts that are left and use a large screwdriver to tweek into place. use of a hammer may be needed if you hit a big big rock.

u just gotta be awesome like me

 

[tertal]

Alright, did some work on the blaster.. well took parts off per-say.

Here are the pictures before I explain.

this picture is self explanatory.. Was also completly missing the top roller.. (the swingarm roller is actually in good condition, I guess I should have taken a picture for suggestions lol..)

this is time to replace right?

I'm assuming that is NOT the correct bolt..

this is what that hood rigged roller was bolted onto.. This mount barley has any thread left and as you can see looks like the chain ran over the mount without a roller even on it for some time.. tips or suggestions?

lastly the rusted old chain. o-ring, x-ring, whatever-ring, I'm just going to get one without a ring..



Now heres what I will be ordering new from RockyMountian
-Renthal Front Sprocket 14 Tooth - 2002 Yamaha BLASTER 200
-Modquad Chain Slider/Guide Set (1 Front Chain slider, 1 Rear Chain Guide, and 2 Rollers, including bearings and bolts.)
-Primary Drive 520 RD Professional Chain 520x92


Now for questions and suggestions! The chain I want to try is a non-ring chain, 520x92 is the size I need for a stock swingarm correct? I haven't ordered my stuff yet so the sooner I get an answer the sooner I order my goodies

 

[darederek]

yep that would be right. idk wat tht renthal sprocket is but dont get aluminum. it will get eaten up alot faster than steel

 

[tertal]

yep that would be right. idk what that renthal sprocket is but don't get aluminum. it will get eaten up a lot faster than steel

awesome thanks!
and for the sprocket its "case hardened nickel chromoly steel"

 

[BlasterGuy87]

Looking Nice man, How big of wheel spacers are those?

 

[tertal]

Looking Nice man, How big of wheel spacers are those?

45mm, I love them. I like them a lot more than the dura blue ones since they cover the hub nut (there also cheaper lol!).

 

[stabor1122]

You would be wise to replace the rear sprocket also.

 

[tertal]

You would be wise to replace the rear sprocket also.

Rear being 40t?

 

[stabor1122]

Whatever size you choose. Just should replace it so it doesn't wear your new chain out.

 

[cole454]

Good practice to replace the chain, front, and rear sprocket as a group. Also O-ring and X-ring chains last a lot longer than non-ring chains.

Stock rear sprocket is a 40t

If you do a search on here, there is a thread where someone bought some ball bearing rollers and cut off the stubs from the stock rollers and bolts the new ones up.

Link to the rollers
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHAIN-ROLLER-YFZ-450-RAPTOR-700-YFM-700-YTZ-250-34mm-/170644066575?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27bb2dd10f

 

[tertal]

found that thread but I'm a picture guy.. so if i get one of those rollers you think i can just do this..

considering everything on the right side of the red line is fugged.

 

[cole454]

Yep. That's what you do. Im planning on doing that to mine once I wear out the stock ones. I believe you might need to drill out the hole depending on the size of the bolt.