Sold one of the blasters today

You can tell him it's low even if it aint dude! Tell him it cost about 200-250 to get it rebuilt because you only use Wossner pistons!!!! Lol

I rock 150 on stock ATC110 motors and non-broke in 250 engines so 170 for a blaster should be feesable lol maybe I just like a little more punch LOL and you'd have no problem kicking 170 on a blaster kicker. Just gotta know how LOL

But yea dude, don't be afraid to stretch the truth a little to scare the $$$$ signs away from him. Just dont tell him it's gunna cost you 2g to rebuild it. He maaaayyyyy smell that pile of bs a mile away LOL

Did I mention in my last post to look at the sprockets and the shift shaft boss? The chain that loose I'd be Leary if it aint been thrown before. Check the brakes on it too. $40 per corner, that's $120 more you could have to spend and $120 more the fella don't need see?
 
You can tell him it's low even if it aint dude! Tell him it cost about 200-250 to get it rebuilt because you only use Wossner pistons!!!! Lol

I rock 150 on stock ATC110 motors and non-broke in 250 engines so 170 for a blaster should be feesable lol maybe I just like a little more punch LOL and you'd have no problem kicking 170 on a blaster kicker. Just gotta know how LOL

But yea dude, don't be afraid to stretch the truth a little to scare the $$$$ signs away from him. Just dont tell him it's gunna cost you 2g to rebuild it. He maaaayyyyy smell that pile of bs a mile away LOL

Did I mention in my last post to look at the sprockets and the shift shaft boss? The chain that loose I'd be Leary if it aint been thrown before. Check the brakes on it too. $40 per corner, that's $120 more you could have to spend and $120 more the fella don't need see?
 
Chuckie25 said:
You can tell him it's low even if it aint dude! Tell him it cost about 200-250 to get it rebuilt because you only use Wossner pistons!!!! Lol

I rock 150 on stock ATC110 motors and non-broke in 250 engines so 170 for a blaster should be feesable lol maybe I just like a little more punch LOL and you'd have no problem kicking 170 on a blaster kicker. Just gotta know how LOL

But yea dude, don't be afraid to stretch the truth a little to scare the $$$$ signs away from him. Just dont tell him it's gunna cost you 2g to rebuild it. He maaaayyyyy smell that pile of bs a mile away LOL

Did I mention in my last post to look at the sprockets and the shift shaft boss? The chain that loose I'd be Leary if it aint been thrown before. Check the brakes on it too. $40 per corner, that's $120 more you could have to spend and $120 more the fella don't need see?
Click to expand...

You see my mods in my sig. My motor has a lot of compression. What I am saying is YOU ARE NOT GETTING 170-190psi on a stock motor. If you are you need to throw your gauge in the trash!
 
I see your mods. I also see its a KOR cookie cutter motor. Don't start a pissing match on engines. I don't have the time to deal with you.

Maybe my gauge is right and I've never had the misfortune of messing with a stock blaster motor. I'm going by my experience with countless other engines.



But yea,, 115-130 and lower = low.
 
Chuckie25 said:
I see your mods. I also see its a KOR cookie cutter motor. Don't start a pissing match on engines. I don't have the time to deal with you.

Maybe my gauge is right and I've never had the misfortune of messing with a stock blaster motor. I'm going by my experience with countless other engines.



But yea,, 115-130 and lower = low.
Click to expand...

Well this discussion was about STOCK motor compression. For some reason you think a freshly broke in motor should be putting out 170-190 psi. Well they don't. And if somebody like me wouldn't have set this post straight some newbies would be reading that stock motors should be making those compression numbers. Do me a favor. Take the plug out of your push mower and do a test on that, let me guess, 180 psi! So if stock motors put out those numbers everybody would be running race fuel, right? Just do a little research before you have newbies tearing apart there top ends because they don't measure up to your retarted numbers!
 
Wifesblaster said:
Sweet congrats man. I hope you get a smokin deal.
Click to expand...

Thanks, and so do i lol.

Sorry for taking over your thread :p:p

I just dont think he will drop his price if i tell him it has bad compression, but he says it runs perfect so maybe (doubt it lol) it was rebuilt right before he bought it I:I That would be sweet if it was I:I
 
Compression doesn't lie. Hopefully it's a solid bike. I'll have some pipes for sale soon. Right bend and maybe a toomey.
 
I think it's a trinity, not sure though. Toomeys are great pipes too. I think either one would work well. I have read the right bend pipe works better on highly modified motors, but I have no ass Dyno numbers to agree or disagree. I have a trinity and that's the only pipe I have ever had. The orange/black bike has a toomey and it rips. His mods are +3 crank, ported cylinder, rechambered head, and pj 34mm carb.
 
Giz told me a right bend pipe should have aggressive porting. Which is probably true, but i want to get my pipe and remove TORs asap...

I took my moose cap off mine before it sold and put giz's cheap one on it, so i ordered him a new cap and hes using mine in the mean time. Idle screw is on its way also.

All i need is a pipe, so let me know when you know more I:I
 
I will leave you alone from now until then, but send me a pm the day you go... I want to annoy you then :D I:I :p

jk, i will just let it sit in the dust till then though
 
You definetly get dibs. I'll send you a pm before posting for sale! I know you wanted that deal. We should be able to get you hooked up with some good chit
 
89blaster89 said:
ehh get a toomey, putting on a right bend is such a B and they leak like a mofo at the flange, shure do perform great though
Click to expand...

He's right about the leaking part. Takes a lot to get them sealed up. I might try removing the 2 exhaust studs, welding the flange to pipe, and use bolts instead of studs. I am going to try to fit it in with the spring holding the flange on the pipe without the studs. If I can wiggle it in that mother is getting welded! I will just mark the pipe and flange so it will be lined up when welded.
 
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