Pre mix correct but smokes lightly all the time

[outcrydrummer]

I just an 02 blaster and its been great so far.

The previous owner had always ran 32:1 and the head and carb have just been rebuilt by a professional shop.

I put 32:1 with castor 2 stroke mix and 93 octane and it constantly smokes. Smells fine ( not of gearbox oil ) , but just always smokes. Feels slightly boggy on the bottom end as well.....nothing dramatic.

I've also tried 40:1 and it seemed to be identical but I didn't stick with it long for fear of having leaned it out if it had been jetted for 32:1 conditions with the pipe.

As far as I can tell the only mod is the FMF pipe on it, its the gold series sst pipe.



On a side note I'm looking for my first mod to do. I was thinking reeds but this is my first two stroke. Trying to get it right little by little so any advice will help.





P.S........ for all you quad guru's........ I have a warrior that is stroked to a 397 that cuts out and sputters at low to mid throttle but flat out hauls at wide open throttle. Motor was just built and I've gone through the carb. Everything seems to be legit but the throttle issue.
I've also heard it backfire a few times when getting on it..... so lean I suspect???? But lean on the idle or main???

Thanks in advance.

Josh

 

[Quadrider10]

smoke is good. plug chop, and see what ya got!

 

[outcrydrummer]

Will do. Not sure I have anything really capable of cutting the threads.......hacksaw lol.

Any idea on mods or the warrior situation?

Thanks

 

[Quadrider10]

check float and carb settings. and as far as first mods, suspension and widening it would be good. reeds dont do much but increase throttle response. not unless u get dual stage or vf3's. u can also take the lid off and jet for that. and yes a hack saw will work. thats waht i use I:I

 

[DirtDiggler]

I run Maxima Super M synthetic 2 stroke oil and it is formulated to be low to no smoke at all . I won't go back to anything else . As far as mods go , Brakes , Suspension then Engine .

 

[outcrydrummer]

Thanks guys.

I have to get on these brakes pretty soon. The front brakes are awesome with new pads and what not but the previous owner lost the cap that retains the rear brake mechanical setup. Everything is there but the cap.... weird lol.

I'll check on the carb setting of the warrior and go from there. I had the carb apart and float and all the jets were nice and clean and free moving. Probably just an air/fuel screw deal that was neglected when the new engine was put in.

I'll have to check into that oil as well. I don't mind the smoke i just see everyone else's 2 stroke producing almost no smoke so it had me concerned.

Thanks again, my first time on this sight and first posts, super friendly people here and quick to give advice...... So far so good I:I

 

[Quadrider10]

well most ppl u see who have no smoke race. they have there bike tuned close to lean for the power increase. if you ride casualy, jetting rich is much much better. i run pretty rich, and my blasty smokes like crazy until its warm, and the carb is cleaned out. then there is tiny tiny amount of smoke to almost no smoke.
and yes get thhos brakes fixed!!!!!!!!!! theres no point in going fast if u cant stop!!!

 

[Blaaster]

Changing from 32:1 to 40:1 richens up the air fuel ratio. less oil = more fuel.

Some blends of Castor do have the tendency to smoke a lot. What oil do you use?

If the bike is new to you, it would be a good idea to do a leak down test and then confirm that it is correctly jetted for the FMF, by doing a plug chop.

As to the warrior, has the idle been adjusted correctly? If the idle circuit is lean, then it will affect mixture settings on the needle.

 

[blasterBruce]

Welcome to the site , Great info here and glad to see you know the basics already , You can Private message Awk08 For the rear Gsxr Brake kit , From what I hear Its a Great Kit and Great price from what I've seen

 

[outcrydrummer]

Changing from 32:1 to 40:1 richens up the air fuel ratio. less oil = more fuel.

Some blends of Castor do have the tendency to smoke a lot. What oil do you use?

If the bike is new to you, it would be a good idea to do a leak down test and then confirm that it is correctly jetted for the FMF, by doing a plug chop.

As to the warrior, has the idle been adjusted correctly? If the idle circuit is lean, then it will affect mixture settings on the needle.

Id have to look at the oil bottle. I thought castor was the brand.

Any idea on stock.compression and stock.jetting so i can verify jetting and overall shape of the top end.

Im starting from scratch on the warrior. Im gonna richen up the idle circuit today and change the needle clip position 1 position leaner. It bogs and cuts out from 1/8 to 3/4 throttle and then runs lean and backfires on the top end......... if that doesnt work i was gonna tear the carb all the way down and check the bladder.

 

[Blaaster]

Id have to look at the oil bottle. I thought castor was the brand.

Any idea on stock.compression and stock.jetting so i can verify jetting and overall shape of the top end.

Im starting from scratch on the warrior. Im gonna richen up the idle circuit today and change the needle clip position 1 position leaner. It bogs and cuts out from 1/8 to 3/4 throttle and then runs lean and backfires on the top end......... if that doesnt work i was gonna tear the carb all the way down and check the bladder.

The closest thing I can relate to as to castor as a brand is Castrol.

Compression should be around 125 psi, stock main jet is #230, but #270/290 for the FMF, pilot #32.5 with the needle on the middle clip.

As to the warrior, why would you richen up the idle, and lean out the needle if it is bogging.

You should be lifting the needle and/or enlarging the main.

You need to clean out the carb and set the fuel level, then adjust the idle correctly before diagnosing jetting problems.

 

[bummer981]

The compression should be around 125 lbs. The stock jet is a 230, with the FMF pipe you might want to be around a 280 or so.

 

[outcrydrummer]

Definitely not castrol oil. Ill look when i get home. I was going to richen out the idle because on the top.end its running lean and i suspect that the needle clip position is wrong because its super rich and boggy mid throttle. Ivr already had the carb apart and cleaned all the jets and took a look at the float.

 

[Blaaster]

Richening up the idle cuircuit is not going to make much difference, if any to the top end.

It will however make it richer on the needle.

The idle has to be set correctly, neither lean, nor rich, before you mess with the other settings.

This may help you understand how a carb works. Notice how the circuits overlap.

The idle has very little effect on the main jet.

 

[slickerthanyou]

I run Maxima Super M synthetic 2 stroke oil and it is formulated to be low to no smoke at all . I won't go back to anything else . As far as mods go , Brakes , Suspension then Engine .

I hear ya on that superM is the shizzle!

Id have to look at the oil bottle. I thought castor was the brand.

Any idea on stock.compression and stock.jetting so i can verify jetting and overall shape of the top end.

Im starting from scratch on the warrior. Im gonna richen up the idle circuit today and change the needle clip position 1 position leaner. It bogs and cuts out from 1/8 to 3/4 throttle and then runs lean and backfires on the top end......... if that doesnt work i was gonna tear the carb all the way down and check the bladder.

Sounds like a carb issue on the warrior. New air filter? new plug? The valves adjusted correctly, timing advanced? Carbs are easy IMO, ccompletely disassemble carb, spray with carb cleaner, i recommend gumout jet spray, then blow dry with compressed air, all parts! Reassemble carefully, adjust float level to proper mm's- and use a new or perfectly clean air filter, new plug! Get motor up to normal hot temp before making any adjustments (very important!), start with idle adjustment , get motor idling at proper RPM's, then do each circut check. If none of this fixes it I'd look into the electrical part, coil,plug wire, stator...

 

[slickerthanyou]

Here is some more info i had----

Backfires in Exhaust

Note:

It is normal for many high performance exhaust systems to moderately backfire or pop when the throttle is closed from mid-to-high rpm. In fact, one should expect a well-tuned high performance engine to "pop" and "crackle" when the throttle is closed at high rpm.

The popping is a result of the air/fuel mixture becoming very lean when the throttle is closed and the engine is rotating well above idle speed. It is also necessary that the exhaust system have rather open mufflers.

Why This (normally) Happens:

1) When the throttle valve is in the idle position, fuel does not flow out of the main system (needle, needle jet, main jet). Fuel is only delivered to the engine by the pilot (idle) system.
2) The combined effect of the closed throttle and elevated engine rpm is to create a fairly strong vacuum in the intake manifold. This vacuum, in turn, causes a high air flow rate through the small gap formed by the throttle valve and carburetor throat.
3) Under these conditions the pilot (idle) system cannot deliver enough fuel to create a normal, combustible air/fuel ratio. The mixture becomes too lean to burn reliably in the combustion chamber. It gets sent into the exhaust system unburned and collects there.
4) When the odd firing of the lean mixture does occur, it is sent, still burning, into the exhaust system where it sometimes ignites the raw mixture that has collected ---- the exhaust then pops or backfires.
5) Completely stock Harleys do not do this until open-end mufflers, such as the popular Screamin' Eagle slip-ons, are installed. The exhaust must be both free-flowing and have an open exit for the popping to occur.


Other possible causes:

Air Leaks:

Any source of fresh air into the exhaust system can create or worsen the conditions that bring about exhaust backfiring. The most common entry point is the junction of the header pipes and mufflers. Even a small air leak can dramatically increase the intensity or likelihood of exhaust system backfiring.

A high temperature silicone sealant, as can be found in many auto parts stores, may be used to seal the pipe/muffler junction.

Lean Carburetion:

While exhaust system popping may be considered normal, it is certainly made worse by an overly lean idle circuit.

Be sure that your carburetor's pilot jet is the correct size and that the idle air mixture screw is correctly adjusted before looking for other causes of popping. The procedure for adjusting the pilot circuit is covered in the Tuning Manual.

Ignition:

If exhaust system popping is very loud, irregular and accompanied by loss of power, then you should suspect that the ignition system is not performing as it should. If, for some reason, the ignition sometimes fires at the wrong time, then exhaust popping can become very energetic (loud). Look for failing high tension leads (plug wires), failing ignition coil(s) and especially switches or connectors as possible causes.

2: Poor Mid-Range Performance

Possible Causes:

1. Carburetor Tuning
2. Exhaust system
3. Too much cam
4. Ignition
5. Low compression pressure
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