Post-rebuild engine problems, be my hero!

[royalt67]

With the TORS module unplugged on a pre 03, there should be zero chance of a TORS prob. Unfortunately this doesn't rule out ALL electrical probs. (Sorry man, but we've all dealt with this s__t before too, and we'll help ya get through this one)

Start with the coil, plug wire, and stator tests on page 7-9 of the manual. You will need a digital meter, some of the values are very small. www.rydindirty.com/blastermanual.pdf

As someone mentioned, you should check the flywheel key too. It is possible for the flywheel to move enough (with a sheared key) to still run yet affect the quality.

Also, don't worry about the e-brake references, you don't have one.

 

[Zwiser]

It's to rich on the pilot

 

[royalt67]

It's to rich on the pilot

Have you read this thread?

 

[mvyooper]

With the TORS module unplugged on a pre 03, there should be zero chance of a TORS prob. Unfortunately this doesn't rule out ALL electrical probs. (Sorry man, but we've all dealt with this s__t before too, and we'll help ya get through this one)

Start with the coil, plug wire, and stator tests on page 7-9 of the manual. You will need a digital meter, some of the values are very small. www.rydindirty.com/blastermanual.pdf

As someone mentioned, you should check the flywheel key too. It is possible for the flywheel to move enough (with a sheared key) to still run yet affect the quality.

Also, don't worry about the e-brake references, you don't have one.

Roger that on the e-brake, none on this one.
Nothing I do to the carb changes the idle or fixes the bog (i.e. choke in/out, air screw, idle mixture, smaller jets). None of it has any effect at all. I'm more convinced than ever it's electrical-related.
I traced and checked the entire harness and everything looks good. I ensured I had a good clean ground at the coil.
I will check the flywheel and test the stator. I have 2 of everything and when I tested each component initially, they all checked out. I will check again.
Any idea why the TORS module killed the engine when I plugged it in? A short somewhere along the harness that I missed? Sorry to keep dwelling on the f ing TORS but from what I read on this site, it's a f ing gremlin.

 

[royalt67]

Yeah, but if you unplugged it then it's a dead gremlin. All the TORS on the earlier bike really is is a very fancy kill switch. Somewhere one of the yell/blk wires must be grounded or connected to a black. That's why it kills the motor when you plug it back in.

So you have already tested all the components like the manual says? Ignition coil, plug wire, plug cap, source coil, pickup coil. If all of these test good and the harness seems sound then the manual assumes the cdi is bad. Have you tried swapping in your other one?

 

[mvyooper]

OK gents, hopefully made some progress drilling down on my bogging blaster dilemma. Tested all the electrical components again and everything, minus one exception is in spec (although the clymer manual states that the pulser coil should read 72-108 ohms which is a far cry from the 12-26 ohms the Yamaha factory manual states).
Primary resistance on my coil read .6 ohms. Both of my coils (one is the stock 10 yr old one) read the same .6 ohms. The one off the parts bike is brand new (looks like a super cheapy though) so either I have two bad coils with identical resistance readings (possibly explaining my bog condition) or because I live in the upper reaches of frozen Wisconsin tundra, coil resistances read lower in colder weather. Any electrical engineers want to weigh in before I run out and buy a 3rd coil?

 

[royalt67]

There are some discrepancies between the older and newer bikes depending on whether you are looking in the original manual or the 03+ Supplement.

Pickup (pulse) coil: 16-24ohms, both manuals, not sure where Clymer gets their numbers.

Primary ignition coil: 1.44-1.76 ohm, original manual; .18-.28 ohm, 03+ supplement; Obviously yours should conform with the original manual, but going by the later numbers, .6 ohms doesn't seem out of the question.

All of these measurements assume 68 deg F temps. Maybe you could take your coil inside? Personally, I don't believe in coincidences. They are probably both fine.

Semi-stupid question #1: Did you try a new sparkplug? They do go bad, even when they aren't fouled...

 

[Awk08]

try the spare coil and plug wire, then the cdi

 

[York Racing]

Im not really good with electricals but it does sound like something before the plug is having problems so count out the plug, boot, and plug wire I guess. But just in case try to pick up a new NGK-R plug and see if there is ANY difference. For $4 it could save you some expensive problems I guess. Thats all I can think of sorry. But my '98 did the same thing when my carb was dirty. Good luck with it man. If I think of anything else ill post it.

 

[mvyooper]

I have 3 brand new plugs and tried them all. I completely agree with you on the coil coincidence readings, not likely both are bad and read the same exact resistance number. And for s&g's last night, I tested the coils after warming them up inside with the same result.
I've run every test (electrical, compression, leak down) that I know and according to the results, this thing should be running.

When I stood the bike on its tail to look inside the exhaust port, oil/gas dripped out of the pipe. Not a lot, but enough to further confirm I have oil/gas mix going unburnt through the cycle. Even though I checked the reeds, is it possible they get weak/go bad? Reeds were oily/gassy when I pulled and checked them. Normal?

Sorry to be jumping around a bit but I'm beyond frustrated with my inability to crack the code on this thing!

 

[AcidRayn]

ok, im in on this one.
first off cat, i am 20 credits short for my master in electrical engineering and i am a electrical contractor, that temp is not going to effect your readings, you'd have to be at -40 for copper windings to start to be effected.

i went thru electrial headaches with brians blaster, i had popping thou, and it turned out to be the cdi, have you tried a different one?

now for some less then smart insight.
no one has questioned your oil/mix.
what type of 2 stroke oil are you using?
and i know you are saying your mixing 32:1, but HOW are you determining that measurement?
ratio rite cup i hope.

have you tested the voltage of the orange wire going to the coil?
have you check the connections of that wire? is it tight where it connects to the coil?
can you wiggle it? if so, give it a bit of a squeeze with a pair of pliers to tighten it up.
check both ends of it, if you look at it by the cdi box, it is the
the sh*ttiest seal of any wire there, clean it.
clean the 2 ground connections, one at the coil mounting bolt, and one at the voltage reg.

you say when you looked in the ex port, you seen oil/gas drip. that should be normal, there
will always be some un burnt 2 stroke oil in the bottom of the case, that is your lower end lube, and is good

any change with the air cleaner off? i know you said its k n, is it CLEAN? what did you use to oil it? k n oil?
anything else will give you probs as it is too thick to allow the air to pass thru the guaze
get rid of that clymers manual, they make good kindling and download the factory manual onthis site

 

[royalt67]

Some good insights^^^.

I had the same prob with a K&N. Use only K&N oil. And yeah, as bad as it is running, some oil out the exhaust is not surprising. Wet reeds are normal, as long as they are closing, they should be fine.

You are running out of things to test. Have you had a chance to swap that cdi yet?

 

[royalt67]

And filter-wise, is that a REAL K&N? I've had probs with cheap ebay copies too....

 

[mvyooper]

Swapped cdi's, same problem. Swapped coils, same. Swapped harnesses, same.

2 stroke oil is Yamaha, bought from the dealer a few days ago. I measured the ratio using a kitchen ml measuring glass. Perfectly accurate? Probably not but unless someone tells me the blaster is unique and has to have a balls accurate gas/oil mix, I've mixed enough gas in my years to get it close enough to run right.

The POS starts with one kick every time and idles great, still seems way rich to me though and the plug proves it.

Filter is a K&N with an outerwear cover. It's oiled, not sure with what type/brand but runs the same whether the filter is on it or off. For entertainment purposes (something I need badly right about now) I wedged the OEM filter unit on the carb to see if there was any difference. Nope.

I have to take a break for a few days while visiting relatives for Christmas. Again, I thank everyone so much for helping me solve this deal and I'm confident that with your expertise and experience, you will help me get this biotch running right!

 

[royalt67]

Damn. How about that flywheel key? Plugged spark arrestor?

 

[mvyooper]

Hooray!!!! Blaster running like it should, finally! Has anyone ever come across a mismatched/bad flywheel? After doing and re-doing every test/swap procedure in this entire thread, I had nothing left to swap and/or test so I decided to swap flywheels for the hell of it. And wouldn't you know it? The LAST m-f-ing thing I can swap fixed my bogging and is behaving as it was designed! Thanks to everyone who offered ideas/advice/suggestions. This site and you all have taught me so much, I can't tell you thanks enough. I'm no expert on the blaster, but my knowledge bank/troubleshooting skill set is miles from where it was a month ago when I started this project. I will post pictures asap. Semper Fi!

 

[super noober]

Hooray!!!! Blaster running like it should, finally! Has anyone ever come across a mismatched/bad flywheel? After doing and re-doing every test/swap procedure in this entire thread, I had nothing left to swap and/or test so I decided to swap flywheels for the hell of it. And wouldn't you know it? The LAST m-f-ing thing I can swap fixed my bogging and is behaving as it was designed! Thanks to everyone who offered ideas/advice/suggestions. This site and you all have taught me so much, I can't tell you thanks enough. I'm no expert on the blaster, but my knowledge bank/troubleshooting skill set is miles from where it was a month ago when I started this project. I will post pictures asap. Semper Fi!

congrats man!! I:I

 

[royalt67]

I've heard of flywheels being f'd up but never seen it. Damn rare. Good job!

 

[mvyooper]

Odd that the flywheel was whacked. Could it be a bad match between the flywheel and the stator? I'm going to start re-building the 2nd motor for what was the parts bike so I will be kicking around on this site for awhile. Thanks again to everyone who weighed in on my problems- couldn't have solved it without you all.