pictures of my new a arms

i was just saying likely aint the case but no. It isnt like u think up here it is confusing as hell. they teach bus metric in school but basically all building materials are metric it is a joke
 
there is a slot for a 1/2" wrench to slide on the joint to stop from spinning. i have completed one side and it looks sweet. i need to pick up an upper arm bolt and 1 new reversed thread tie rod end and ill be set to do the next side. ill be picking the parts up tomorow as long as there in stock which they should be.
 
heres a finished picture, all i gotta do now i get some brake fluid and do the front brakes cuz i had to take them off to remove the old arms. with them also being +1 i guess it moved the weight and i got much more traction it feels like now.

r2sznc.jpg
 
^^^ actually no there not stock, there from a ski-doo ledgend i think lol. and ya +2+1. i will either be getting some works or yfz shocks before i do any serious riding which will be next spring since its getting to cold to trailer up to places. they should be good for the winter tho. it actually sits higher then before becaus the bottom mounts are taller, also alot more travel.
 
get yourself a deadblow hammer it will go along way with coaxing out old parts without damaging them

for getting ball joints out of a spindle, you want a hammer, a metal one. works the best. you need that vibration if gives to loosen the ball joints so they fall out.
 
^^^ actually no there not stock, there from a ski-doo ledgend i think lol. and ya +2+1. i will either be getting some works or yfz shocks before i do any serious riding which will be next spring since its getting to cold to trailer up to places. they should be good for the winter tho. it actually sits higher then before becaus the bottom mounts are taller, also alot more travel.

dont do the yfz shocks. get works or some elkas. if you can, find a set of blown works for super cheap and i know a guy that can rebuild them for you for a decent price.
 
yfz shocks are real nice and well priced....i couldve gotten expensive as hell elkas or works, but the yfz work perfect for me, so why fix it if it anit broke
 
i can get an 07 SE set for 200 bucks, are they no good.

they are too long.
the only way to get the most out of the yfz shocks is to swap the yfz front end onto a banshee, a-arms, spindle, shocks, everything.

with just the shocks, they tend to have lots of bump steer
 
i just want somthing that will be adjustable and wont bottom out very easy on jumps. and im not loaded on cash. i heard the are kinda stiff but that shouldnt be a problem with my a arms. and these a arms go all the way down if i let them drop without a shock, there is not stopper. so the extra inch on the yfz shock shouldnt be a problem. and i put a new pic of them in my sig after a very harsh day of riding, they held up great.
 
that extra inch is the stress on the ball joints.
i might be selling my works triple rates for a good price. there are not adjustable but they are good shocks.