Oil condition after rebuild

Miller_Time

New Member
Sep 17, 2009
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Ive got an 89 blaster that i had bored 1mm over from stock, with a wsm piston. The work was done at a shop ive gone to for years so i really trust the work they perform. However ive changed the oil probly 4 times since the rebuild(probly 15 hours of ride time total), and every time there are more and more shavings in the oil. Looks like silver glitter to me. Is this normal for a blaster to take this long to break in or is something else possibly going on? Thanks in advance guys.
 
so its your tranny putting off shavings? did you just get the clutch replaced by any chance? i could see mabey a new clutch putting off tiny shavings but i really dont know for sure.
 
Welcome to the forum (awesome name by the way)
Blasters do use a wet clutch which does tend to leave the oil a little on the dirty side. If the particles are very small, as in hard to see a single particle that's normal. if the particles are of the larger variety this could be problematic. If it looks like a very fine glitter like in a semi metallic paint job on a modern car your good to go. if it looks like the gel coat from a 1977 bass boat then you have an issue.
 
Nah, havent done anything to the clutch. However i did notice that my float stuck for about 2 or 3 days in sitting and a bunch of gas went into the crankcase. Only rode it about 15 min before i noticed. Could that short of period eat at the clutch?
 
Firstley WELCOME to the forum.

1.Your gearbox and clutch oil is seperated from your piston so it is not shavings from the piston or crank, it is from your gearbox and your clutch.

2.What oil are you using?

3.the shaving's could be from your clutch that it is on its way out or from your gear's because of your clutch.

you do get some wear on your clutch and gears but there must not be excesesive mettal shavings in the oil but you do get a little of it over time. Aspesialy if you have left the oil for a long time before changing it.

Make sure you use the rite tipe oil for two stroke bike's! because rong oil could cause a lot of damage
 
hehe thanks on the welcome and the name props lol. To clarify a little looked like my daughters silver fingernail polish o_O
 
Nah, havent done anything to the clutch. However i did notice that my float stuck for about 2 or 3 days in sitting and a bunch of gas went into the crankcase. Only rode it about 15 min before i noticed. Could that short of period eat at the clutch?

no that would have nothing to do with your clutch. how does it sound any odd noises?
 
Yeah it made a couple loud slapping noises so i immediatly killed it and thats when i found the gas in the crankcase. After the oil change though havent heard it since, still has tons of compression and runs fine.
 
Yeah it made a couple loud slapping noises so i immediatly killed it and thats when i found the gas in the crankcase. After the oil change though havent heard it since, still has tons of compression and runs fine.

huh, i would take your clutch cover off and look at the fingers on your clutch basket, it is shiny metal like the shavings you describe. and did the gas go into your crankcase where the crank and piston are or into drip onto your clutch cover? because the clutch cover should be sealed and no gas should have been able to get in there.
 
Im assuming since the carb sets at a downward angle towards the engine the overflow cant release as much as whats coming in so the excess would run down the cylinder into the crankcase.
 
Im assuming since the carb sets at a downward angle towards the engine the overflow cant release as much as whats coming in so the excess would run down the cylinder into the crankcase.
the engine and trans are sealed form one another. 2 stroke engines don't have oil in the lower end like a 4 stroke does. the oil in the trans is in the TRANS only. if youi suspect a leak you need to do a leakdown test.. do you have a leakdown tester? if not i'll post a lin on how to build one.. and a link on how to use the tool you built.. they can be built for under $20 with common parts from the hardware store.

a leakdown test presuurises the engine and you can see if the pressure leaks down.. (hense the name leak down test) if you lose pressure you have a leak somewhere.. in your case you should concentrate on clutch side crank seal and the actual case seal itself.

heres the link for building the tester

how to build a leakdown tester.. - powersportjunkies.com

and heres the link how to use this tool

how to do a leakdown test - powersportjunkies.com
 
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Guys i really appreciate all your advice. This is by far the most kickass forum out there. I think im gonna go pull the head for the sake of sleeping better and look at the cylinder and pull the clutch and check it out. Thanks for all your warm welcomes also :)
 
Thanks for the post 370, also if i run through any water more than 6 inches deep it takes on water in the sight glass. in your opinion is this all leaning towards the crank seal?