Jets dont open, throttle cable wont move

If you plan on removing the tors block, you need an eliminator kit. Its a new cap,, cable, drill and tap, and a new Idle screw.

If your not getting all that, leave the tors block on top of the carb and use it to controll the Idle. Thats what I do.

Yes also if your premixing, the oil injection nipple must be blocked off, or it will create a lean condition. Just go to a autoparts store and get a small vaccum cap to cover it.
 
And assuming everything works that leaves me with a stock coil and stator plate that ohm'ed in spec, so if you guys know anyone in need they can pay shipping and ive got it. And I do real carbon fiber fab so if you guys are interested drop me a line, for now just covering and small stuff like brush guards though. If your looking for swing arms I'm not you man, yet.
 
Not sure if any mods have been done to your bike, if any it might pay to check the jets, to see if they are the correct ones.
 
I sent you an Invoice. What all mods are done on your bike? I have some extra jets, and I can put one in close to what you will need. You still will need to get some plugs, Plug chop, and a few extra jets for temp and mod changes.
 
That Shee rear shock is going to be too short. A 400ex or 450r shock is much better with KOR's bushings.

What pipe are you running? Air filter, air box lid on or off? Any other Engine work done to it? Need a rough jet size.

I'll put some paint or something on that injection nipple so you know what one it is.
 
Dang, I made a killing on the 400ex, bout it from a desperate crystal meth tweaker for 1000 and turned around and sold to a friend for 1700. but let me check what I have and I'm in the process of making a custom air intake but as it stands its a stock filter. And I heard alot about removing the box but not a clue what that entitles. Sorry guys, I'm better at building go-kart engines. Give me a sec and ill brb.
 
Ok so Ive got a fmf gold series fatty, to a stock silencer, but my coupling is beat to sh*t, so need to replace. Got a 4 degree timing advance and coil is suppose to be 2000v above stock (so the Chinese claim).
 
And blaaster looking for more down the road insight. Since I removed my headlights, and currently have no front plastics except for fenders I could route a ram air style intake, have a pre filter and then a foam filter? So id still get more airflow while reducing debris?
 
Ok so Ive got a fmf gold series fatty, to a stock silencer, but my coupling is beat to sh*t, so need to replace. Got a 4 degree timing advance and coil is suppose to be 2000v above stock (so the Chinese claim).

Pipe only = #260 main jet. Needle in middle slot, pilot #32.5.
Aftermarket air filter + 1 or 2 sizes on main.
Air box lid off + 2 sizes on main.
Pod filter fitted direct on carb=+1 on main.
32:1 mix + 1 size main.
All same needle and pilot.

So you look at #270 - #280 with the lid on.
 
And blaaster looking for more down the road insight. Since I removed my headlights, and currently have no front plastics except for fenders I could route a ram air style intake, have a pre filter and then a foam filter? So id still get more airflow while reducing debris?

I do not do mud or water, so I use a foam pod directly on the carb throat, but you have to jet up at least 3 sizes above a stock air box.
 
I opened up the carb and cleaned it. I'll throw a 270 or 280, main in...which ever one I have in my parts box.

Captian....You are going to have to take the bowl off your old carb and put the slosh guard from it on this one. I have no Idea where it went. I'll draw you up something with the carb when I send it, explaining what to do.
 
Ok blaaster so heres another question, Ive always ran at 42:1 on my old cr125 and hotter plugs just to not foul them. Always worked as far as I could tell, but 32:1 is really what I need?