:-/the guy I found here in orlando that can do machine work (ie... bore's shaving heads and that's about it) said some things and did some things to make me wonder about his ability to work on my machine. first off i'm not using him anymore but he said when I asked him if he had chamfered the ports that, that is why he ran a ball hone through it after he ran (idk the name of it) flat stone hones through it bc that would chamfer it. and he charged me like 100 bucks for the bore and another hundred for shaving my head a couple mm. is he just an expensive 2stroke moron or what? he seemed reputable and knowlegeable but now that I know alittle more I think I changed my mind. sorry for the book i'm bored.
is this machinist a douche?
- Thread starter scotj77
- Start date
not sure on the ball hone thing, i dont think thats how it works.. but that definately was a expensive bore but sh*t the way things have been i would pay it for a quality job for once lol
before you put it back together you should send it to a better guy, i watched ken chamfer my ports and he used a special tool and chamfered each individually, and at no point was there a ball hone involved. call ken at ken oconner racing and ask him what he thinks, i would say you should go and get your money back, my 2 cents
this is kind of an old story. that piston and jug were toasted months ago. I just wanted to know it other people felt the same way as I did about this. this guy does a lot of boat motors, so he should know two strokes. unfortunately my crank was going bad and I didn't relize it when I had him do the work.
The only thing a ball hone is good for is freshening up a cylinder. They remove minimal amounts of material and give you fresh cross hatch pattern. Sunnen type power heads are the only way to do this correctly. When the cylinder is bored, the cutting tool will leave peaks and valleys behind. Cast iron has a tendency to peel rather than cut. The hone is used to remove the tooling marks, create the cross hatch and set the final clearance. I always hone the last .004. I believe this makes the best surface possible. If you ever get a cylinder back after a bore and you can see any tooling marks other than from the hone, the “local machine shop” just screwed up your cylinder. Here's a link to an auto stroke version. This is a very nice machine but all you really need is the head. I do mine by hand with a Sunnen head and a 1/2” drill. You can feel what's going on in the cylinder and can get the diameter perfect with no taper. I let Nick and Ian try it one night at the shop. Ball hones don't chamfer ports.
Engine Building Equipment - Sunnen
Engine Building Equipment - Sunnen
