then unless the carbs you do have, have an input for the oil pump, you're good to go. That nipple on the stock carb should definitely get plugged as well. I thought I mentioned that but maybe not. Thanks Darederek! I:I
Injector Block-off (clean) for $3
- Thread starter Muggzy
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then unless the carbs you do have, have an input for the oil pump, you're good to go. That nipple on the stock carb should definitely get plugged as well. I thought I mentioned that but maybe not. Thanks Darederek! I:I
i'd still pull the pump and everything, there at least was a guy selling block off kits on ebay. its easy enough to do and it's better than just leaving the lines in there and the pump running to nothing
Brandon, He said he did the silicone thing ^^^ already. I'm assuming he pulled the gear too. Though now that you mention it, I'm not so sure :-/
I did the silicone mod like posted in the pics.. (minus the white gear) when i put the pump back on and filled it up with oil, oil started leaking around the pump. So i pulled the pump off again and I put gasket maker around it, left it to dry and filled it again and I still get the leak. Not sure what to do now. I stripped one of the screws taking the pump off and found another 1 that was 4-6 threads longer then the original. Maybe when I put that one on I pierced through the case? kinda hard to see exactly where its leaking from but its def around the pump.
Sorry, I gotta clarify first: you did remove the white gear and you filled the transmission case with oil? Did you degrease the pieces of tubing as described before you tried to put silicone in them? If not the silicone will just fall out if there is any pressure.
If you look back up at picture #2, (with the pump cover removed) the pump is visible and the clutch cover is still sealed. You should be able to see where a leak is coming from. If it's coming from around the pump or from a poorly plugged nipple, you know where your leak is. If it's from around the pump, take it off and scrape off the liquid gasket. Reapply it in an even, fairly thin layer and wait only 1/2 hour, then put the pump back on. Better yet, just order the gasket (it's only a couple of bucks) BTW, you can get away with not draining the oil again if you turn the bike up onto it's left side before you take the pump off.
If you drove a screw through the clutch cover, I'd think you would have noticed it getting really difficult to turn when you got near the bottom. Knowing it was too long to begin with, you should've stopped turning. If this did happen, I suggest you take the clutch cover back off and clean and de-grease the cover really well.
Cut the screw to the proper length and clean up the end of the threads with a file. Test it in a nut with the same size threads. Put a dab of grease on the tip of your screw and put it back into the hole where it punched through. Then get some JB Weld and patch the hole from the inside. The bit of grease on the tip is to keep the JB Weld from sticking to the screw when it hardens. The screw is to keep you from over filling the hole from the inside of the cover.
Get a new clutch cover gasket and put it all back together (I just bought one off of flea bay for $8 shipped) paying careful attention to put the screws for the clutch cover back into the same holes they came out of.
Refill the tranny with oil and inspect for leaks again. If you work slowly and carefully, paying attention to every thing you're touching and how things feel as you work, you should be OK. Just remember, If your forcing it to get it back together, there's probably something wrong. Stop and figure out what it is.
Hey I'm looking at the pics you posted, does the shaft that goes through the clutch cover have a seal on it in the cover? If you leave the pump housing off does the shaft fall out? If the pump is left in place and you disconnect the oil supply and feed lines from it and take the gear off, why do the fittings have to be plugged? Wouldn't they be just open to the air? Or are they vented to the trans somehow? Guess I'm unclear on why such attention is paid to plugging them if they aren't hooked to anything anymore?
That's a great question! I originally plugged them because I left the white gear inside the clutch cover and the shaft would still be spinning. Yeah, I disabled the pump buy taking the gear out of the pump but I just felt I ought to plug those nipples to keep grime from getting into the pump (where the shaft was still spinning). If you take the white gear out of the inside you're right, you probably don't need to plug them at all.
I guess it's just a hold-over from the quick method I first posted and just never thought to question it again.
I figured this out about the time you posted. I ended up pulling the cover off my sons bike just to look at it. The cover was siliconed in place. Once I got it off I found a shaft hanging out of the hole. No pump. Luckily we have a basket case and it had a pump in the cover still. I took it apart and gutted it. Then soldered up the two nipples for the lines. Filled the bigger hole with silicone and then bolted the mess over the shaft. I fired it up before I put the pump on and the shaft doesn't spin, and it spins freely with my fingers. I assume somebody before me got rid of the gear. If it makes it through this Saturdays ride it's gonna get yanked apart and probably have a plate put over it. But for now hopefully the pump seal up works.
im a lazy ass!!! i put a vacuum cap on the carb where the oil feed went, removedthe oil tank and cut the lines a inch from where they go in the case, and plugged them, left some yamacrap in the pump to keep it lubed so it dont get hot and melt, mis up 32:1 and run er!! NEVER had a problem on any of my blaster run that way.. not as clean lookin as the kits but it works
I couldn't tell from your post. Didn't mean to sound condescending, it just sounded like you needed more help than a simple answer
Lmk how it goes.
Yeah, I like to keep things clean but didn't like the idea of spending $28 for a block-off plate and gasket. The "pump" seal ought to last as long as your engine I:I
I couldn't tell from your post. Didn't mean to sound condescending, it just sounded like you needed more help than a simple answer
So I took the cover off and found that when I stripped the screw and used the drill to pull it out we cracked around the pump punch in the cover. I used the jb weld like you mentioned. hopefully she will hold oil now. If not then i guess im looking for a new cover. Im going to post some pics soon of a swing arm I picked up that buddy made himself. Its a +3 but its not straight, has a 2inch drop in it. See what everybody thinks of it. thx again for the advise.
just did this mod today but i guess my gasket on the oil pump kinda cracked so i sealed it with blk silicone. (for now) til i get the gaskets in. glad i didnt pull the clutch cover off i woulda been fkd with that gasket especially. but i ordered some gaskets and when they come in im gonna take out that white wheel and adjust my clutch while im at it. as for the oil tank i MIGHT keep it there and fill it with premix gas as a reserve tank. ;-)
What a great idea! let us know how it works out. I might still have mine floating around the garage somewhere. It might be worth remounting I:I
i havent gotten around to that but im def gonna turn it to reserve tank. dude i had the hardest time putting the crank cover back on today. i guess when u take off the cover the kick start bearings supposed to stay in there. but the damn thing came OUT WITH cover. so i had the hardest time puting it back in cus i didnt know where the spring went and wheel went but i got it in. i broke the brand new gasket too messing with it so i used gasket maker over it hopefully it holds up. also i noticed the clutch basket was pretty scrapped DK if thats normal. gonna post a new thread on it now
Yea I agree. It does feel better with the premix now and the fact of knowing ure safer mixing ur own. Definitely comforting.
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