Got my first blaster

[bummer981]

That is much too smal to be the key. It may me one of the pickups though. I bought one for $250 that had one of the pick ups come loose. it was jammed in there pretty tight and would not let the crank turn a full revolution. When you open it check to see if the woodruff key has been shearded off mine was.

 

[neo31ny]

Yea I'm just going to have to wait to find out, I'm thinking that's why the motors locked up. I could prob have gotten away with just pulling and replacing the flywheel/stator but the crank end is stripped out pretty bad too. I don't know, like I said I'll have to wait to total up the damage. Thanks guys.

 

[Herpderplol]

I have a full set of green plastics, and some rear blue fenders, we might be able to work out a deal, and the size for a shipping box would be outrageous

 

[neo31ny]

I have a full set of green plastics, and some rear blue fenders, we might be able to work out a deal, and the size for a shipping box would be outrageous

Do you have some pics, and what type of deal were you thinking?

 

[neo31ny]

How do these run on premix opposed to the oil injection, any difference or anything I need to keep an eye on? I'll be posting up more pics after I pull the pump to see if it was properly removed. There's no lines on the pump and I don't see an oil tank, and from what I've heard it's just a matter of removing the oil pump gear and using the pump itself as a block off.

 

[Larry's Shee]

It's all the same. Some run 32:1, I think mostly because it's an easy ratio to use. I run 28:1 because I like more oil. Blaaster runs 25:1. Banshee owners manual calls for 20:1 for break in and 24:1 after. My Elsinore uses 20:1.
Some use 40:1. With less oil you get a touch more power, but is it worth it ?? Would the butt dyno even register it ??

 

[bummer981]

Be sure the nipple on the kicker side of the carb is blocked off as well, don't want to be sucking in any unwanted air.

 

[neo31ny]

Be sure the nipple on the kicker side of the carb is blocked off as well, don't want to be sucking in any unwanted air.

Good call...prob wouldn't have thought of that until too late lol. Thanks Larry for the info too I appreciate it.

 

[neo31ny]

Is there supposed to be a hitch pin on the end of my crank flywheel side? I just noticed a pic of someone's engine on here and there's don't have it.

 

[neo31ny]

Is there supposed to be a hitch pin on the end of my crank flywheel side? I just noticed a pic of someone's engine on here and there's don't have it.

Anyone know....?

 

[Blaaster]

With less oil you get a touch more power, but is it worth it

Should this not read that with more oil you get a touch more power.

Extra oil increases compression slightly resulting in a touch more power due to better ring sealing.

 

[Blaaster]

With less oil you get a touch more power, but is it worth it

Should this not read that with more oil you get a touch more power.

Extra oil increases compression slightly resulting in a touch more power due to better ring sealing.

 

[Larry's Shee]

Or another way would be a little more fuel to burn as opposed to oil. But would the difference either way be enough to measure on a dyno? I'm on your side as to more oil, I'm not a drag racer looking to be the fastest.
Matter of fact on my sno-mo powered drag bike I mixed 100:1 PLUS injector pump set at minmum at throttle closed and maximum at WOT . Never fouled a plug and never burned down. Clutches engaged at 5500+ RPM, yee-ha. Never adjusted mid range.

 

[neo31ny]

My flywheel tool should be here today and I got the ambition to look over the wheeler. Pulled the carb and glad I did cause this is what I found waiting for me.

 

[neo31ny]

Ok got good and bad news, prob more so bad. I got the flywheel off and it was indeed whatever was wedged behind it was locking up the engine, looks like the key cause that is nowhere to be found. It will turn over now and has compression, don't have a tester as of yet to verify a number though. The bad is my crank end is stripped...so I may be looking at a rebuild regardless. Does anyone know if I can run a dye over the end and re-thread the crank?

 

[neo31ny]

Can anyone verify the thread size and pitch on the crankshaft end/flywheel nut? It looks like 12x1.25, I just want to be sure without having to run to the hardware store just to size it up. I'm gonna go ahead and run the next size smaller dye over it and see how that goes, if not them I'm in for a complete rebuild. Thanks again I:I

 

[Blaaster]

Can anyone verify the thread size and pitch on the crankshaft end/flywheel nut? It looks like 12x1.25, I just want to be sure without having to run to the hardware store just to size it up. I'm gonna go ahead and run the next size smaller dye over it and see how that goes, if not them I'm in for a complete rebuild. Thanks again I:I

Top marks for the gumption on attempting to rethread the crank!

Be warned though that the flywheel needs to be tensioned up to 53 ft lbs or it stands the chance of spinning.

Good luck, please let us know how it goes.

 

[Larry's Shee]

unless they're uber bad I would try touching them up with a metric thread file. JMO.

 

[neo31ny]

unless they're uber bad I would try touching them up with a metric thread file. JMO.

Yea, all the threads are worn practically smooth. It has a U groove worn into it slightly and you can barely start to see threads as you get back towards the motor. So if a re-thread don't work I'll do a full rebuild. It's 53 ft. lbs you say? Good to know thanks alot Blaaster. I'll keep you posted on how it goes. Can I get some help finding a M11x1.25 flange nut, or possibly any pitch M11 flange nut, I can find the dyes but no flange nuts.

 

[Larry's Shee]

Don't know if there is such a thing as m11. However, have you thought about an SAE thread? That way you might not be making shaft a full 2mm smaller.