Yes but I've dealt mainly in metrics my whole life. I started out on honda automobiles and jumped to kawasaki and honda and yamaha atv's. Even my polaris atv I've used metric sockets on and they are supposed to be american made yes? If anyone can tell me the next SAE thread size smaller than a 12mm I would appreciate it. I would only be going 1mm smaller unless I have to jump down to a 10. How much smaller is the next SAE size down compare to metric?
Got my first blaster
- Thread starter neo31ny
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Yes but I've dealt mainly in metrics my whole life. I started out on honda automobiles and jumped to kawasaki and honda and yamaha atv's. Even my polaris atv I've used metric sockets on and they are supposed to be american made yes? If anyone can tell me the next SAE thread size smaller than a 12mm I would appreciate it. I would only be going 1mm smaller unless I have to jump down to a 10. How much smaller is the next SAE size down compare to metric?
I can work with that, as long as everything I need is on the wheeler. I'll prob just make a new harness anyway.
Do a leakdown just incase you need to replace the seal. If the threads don't come out perfect , don't be afraid to use loctite on it.
One of my Uncle's favorite sayings "you can't spoil a rotten egg", in other words, what do you have to lose?
One of my Uncle's favorite sayings "you can't spoil a rotten egg", in other words, what do you have to lose?
Guess that's my next step, re-thread and put a new matching flange nut on. I've got alot of little crap to take care of, already cleaned the carb, need to make a new wire harness. Check to see if the oil pump was deleted properly, possibly remove the tors system. I gotta order a compression tester and see where it's at. It will turn over now since I removed the flywheel and has compression. So things are looking up so far. I:I I'll update as I find out more.
Exactly, I was planning on having to do a complete rebuild anyway. If this don't work I'm not out much money. I ordered a tap and die set, a new flange nut and some zip ties for my wiring lol.
Ok I finally pulled the stator off and I found the culprit. Someone had ground a bolt head square supposedly to fit under the flywheel but the flywheel was torqued against it and locked the motor up. So I don't think there is anything wrong with the wheeler besides the stripped crank. The seal looks new and there is zero play in the crank end. I plan on doing a leak test to be sure. I haven't looked at the other side yet. Are there special tools to pull the clutch or does it slide right off? I might not even mess with it unless the test shows a leak somewhere.
cool dude I wouldent do anything with the clutch but change the oil with quality stuff 10-30 or 10-40 weight oil but Id deffinatly still do a leak test
Set float level, adjust idle, check that jets are correct for your mods, but first leak test it.
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Let's see if this works...sorry about the size, I tried resizing them on photobucket but it didn't do anything when I posted on here.
for $50 is a great deal I:I only the rear wheels cost more than $50
Set float level, adjust idle, check that jets are correct for your mods, but first leak test it.
How To Perform a Leak Down Test – YouTube
Demonstrating a Leak Down Test performed on a Yamaha Blaster – YouTube
It's all stock, what jetting should I start with? I swapped carbs and never thought to check the jetting but I couldn't get it to start with the stock carb that was on the motor. I switched to a different spare stock carb that I just got off someone.
The stock 230 main jet should be fine if its all stock, so I would start there. Make sure the main wasn't swopped out and while the carb is off check your reed cage and reed petals. Bad, cracked or worn out reeds would cause it to bog and stall out when given gas.
Never swap a carb without checking it for cleanliness or jetting.
Take the carb off, clean, adjust float, correct jetting for stock is #230 main, #32.5 pilot ,needle on middle slot.
What were the results of the leak test?
Take the carb off, clean, adjust float, correct jetting for stock is #230 main, #32.5 pilot ,needle on middle slot.
What were the results of the leak test?
I haven't done a leak test yet. I need to build one, so I haven't messed with it since yesterday. I also haven't had time to check the carb yet. The carb was just cleaned by the guy I got it from it just needed the bottom bowl screws so I could see inside and tell it was cleaned but I didn't think to check the jets when I swapped it.
