tha's not good. your balance gear rivets came apart. i have one of those gears and you can have it for 15 bucks. it's in good shape. they cost like 80 bucks new. no other damage? might want to start searchin for a clutch basket if that one is really bad
first build wanna do it right but dont have deep pockets
- Thread starter waitintoburn
- Start date
any input on these pictures would be great any and all. is the clutch fine with those indensions? will i need to replace that top wheel where the washer thing came off or what is that exactly?
I was staring at that gear in the first pic and couldn't figure out what hell i was lookin at. this explains it
i mean ill take it but where do you live/ how would i go about getting and paying for it? and thanks alot for all the input and help man youve answered about half my questions / problems singlehandedly
you don't do paypal. i live in florida. I'll ship it to ya. i needed one of those gears bc mine was gettin loose on the rivets. i found a parts lot on ebay with two of them in it and they were both in great shape. there is an entire clutch in the forsale tread for 50 bucks and they dude selling it is a good guy and i trust him his user name is whitty. he has a thread selling some engine parts. you need to become a supporting member though. which means you click on the supporting member icon under my name and go to the bottom right hand part of the page to donate. it's only 10 bucks and it allows you to buy and sell on the forum. you need paypal though.
alright dude i gotta go to bed, work tomorrow. i'll be back on tomorrow night. send me a pm if you have any direct questions for me.
ok ill get paypal tonight. and become a supporting member. do i need a new clutch? is thst one shot because of the divits in the basket?
one last answer. the clutch basket that holds all the clutch discs and steels looks pretty well shot. that clutch whitty is selling is the whole thing,it is a great deal and you better go on there and call dibs as soon as possible.
alright well i am buying a clutch and carb from whitty so that takes care of the clutch in the picture, the striped carb, and scotj had a balance gear for me to replace the one in the pic on the previous page so things are looking pretty good at this point any suggestions on the piston i should get.... still trying to decide on sending it to ken or see if i can just get it honed locally. like i said its all about keeping it cheap in this project.
I have seen quite a few crappy bore jobs posted on here from their local machinists. i have even gotten one myself from a guy that really seemed like he knew what he was doing and he charged like 100 instead of 60. ken works on blasters all the time and does great work. weisco prolite pistons are the best around. that is really the only piston that anyone backs up here.
alright well i am going to talk to ken about what all i need done and him ordering the piston for me.
I have a completely rebuilt 1998 (split the cases and replaced every worn part), fresh P4 bore (67mm), new bearings throughout, new seals throughout, new clutch fibers, 1-2 shift fork, head shaved .015", stock ported motor. This motor was ran in the sand only. Never in the mud.
Just add your reeds/intake, kicker, shifter and stator cover and it's ready to fire for the first time today.
$650.00 plus shipping (usually around $50-75)
Buy it and Ill throw in a 28.5mm bored (OEM banshee 26mm left side carb) with it.
By the time you buy a piston $100+, split the cases ($180 labor to R&R), replace clutch $200, bearings $100+, bore $60, complete gasket set $65 and seal kit $45 you could own my spare.
Check out my pics in the BOTM section to see the kinda stuff we ride and run. Im also a 11 year eBay member (Oregondunes) with over 1200 feedback if your concerned about anything.
I accept paypal (verified with over 500 business transactions) and can usually ship within 5 business days of confirmed payment. This item will have to be crated, so will take a lil time.
Sell your motor parts to offset the cost.
Just add your reeds/intake, kicker, shifter and stator cover and it's ready to fire for the first time today.
$650.00 plus shipping (usually around $50-75)
Buy it and Ill throw in a 28.5mm bored (OEM banshee 26mm left side carb) with it.
By the time you buy a piston $100+, split the cases ($180 labor to R&R), replace clutch $200, bearings $100+, bore $60, complete gasket set $65 and seal kit $45 you could own my spare.
Check out my pics in the BOTM section to see the kinda stuff we ride and run. Im also a 11 year eBay member (Oregondunes) with over 1200 feedback if your concerned about anything.
I accept paypal (verified with over 500 business transactions) and can usually ship within 5 business days of confirmed payment. This item will have to be crated, so will take a lil time.
Sell your motor parts to offset the cost.
thanks for the offer man but the reason i bought an old blaster was to build it like i wanted and get the know how,its a learning experience as much as anything but once again thanks for the offer
alright so what is the best way to get stripped screw out of a cramp space, im at a lose for words, and if i did have any they wouldnt be good, i think in all there are about 7 striped screw some on the frame and on on the engine case. any suggestions?
one last question before i call it a night. can the crack pictured on the first page be fixed.... i mean if i weld it do yall think it will hold fine.....really not trying to buy a new frame ath this piont already spending more than i wanted...... but be honest i mean me and my buddy are pretty hand with a bead weld.
I personally wouldnt want to just leave it there. I am assuming that you are talking about the head of the screw being stripped.A couple things you could try to do is if you have a die grinder, you could use it to cut a slot it the screw head to fit a large straight blade screw driver and try to unscrew it. Another option would be to drill the screw out. Sounds a little scary if you have never done it before but it is pretty easy. Take the one screw that you got out and find a drill bit that is ONE size bigger than the threaded part of the screw. If you have access to a drill press it is better because it will keep your bit straight but a hand drill will work. Drill into the center of the screw where the screwdriver would normally go. Nice easy slow pressure. Once you get through the head, the head should pop off and you should be able to pull the pump off the screw shaft. Then just use vice grips to remove the screw shaft. Hope this helps. Good luck.
i already tryed cutting a grove in it for a flat head that didnt work. ill try and drill it out but i was trying to avoid that but thats my only option at this point. thanks
they also make these things called ez outs that are made to grab in stripped screws. they have them at any hardware store. drilling it out is your very last resort. also they make a hand held impact driver. you hit the back of it with a hammer and it turns when you hit it very cheap at harborfreight or nothern tool. also when you get them out change everything to allan head screws it really makes life ez
any way to get clutch boss nut off with out a clutch holder tool? or do i gotta suck it up and buy one?
