Engine problem

blasterboricua

New Member
Nov 15, 2009
45
1
0
florida
So yesterday afternoon i took my blaster out in to the woods by my house when out of nowhere the bike stal out on me. So i kick over on the starter it turn on but i hear a clancking metal rough noise coming from the top end..pulling the joogg out today pics coming soon. Any good good stroker kits that anyone can suggest...thank you
 
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this is what i have found so far nothing broken or crackt quick quesion when the crank keyway brakes does it make a rough noise as the hub turns...i tink that is my problem but i ran out of dalight i will pull out the cover n c if the keyway is shatterd..
 
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looks like you have quite a bit of ring blow by. you are def in need of some top end work. piston doesn't look too bad besides that. don't know what the clanking could have been. also looked like you had a possible headgasket leak
 
possible head gasket leak? Looks more like definite head gasket leak.

The piston and cylinder look OK. Need to check cylinder to piston clearance and make sure it's ok to reuse. If the clearance is ok, then a hone and re-ring should take care of the blow-by.

You need to check the cylinder and head warpage and reassemble.
 
i just got home for my lunch brake n pull off the stator cover finding out that the nut that holds the clutch stator had came loose or i must of not thingent it enought when i replase the pulsar coil causing the key way to grind off so the clucking noise that i keept on hearing wus the statot margnet hub free spining n hiting the case....
 
Alright, take the flywheel off and turn the engine assembly over by hand and listen for any strange noises. If you don't hear anything, you've probably found the clunking culprit.

You'll have to lap the flywheel taper surface back to the crankshaft taper and replace the key. Use valve grinding compound between the fylwheel taper and the crankshaft taper to lap them together. When the grit seems to disappear, pull the flywheel back off and reapply lapping compound. You should spin the flywheel with lapping compound on it until all of the flywheel and crankshaft taper is matched shiny. Once the flywheel and crankshaft tapers are matched again, clean everything off very well and then install the new key and torque the nut to spec.

Once you have the flywheel torqued properly you can recheck that your clunk is gone.

Purchase a top end gasket kit and rings to fit your piston. Check your piston to cylinder clearance to make sure you're good to go and leak check after you get everything back together. Ride off into the sunset....
 
Rtv on the reed cage?AWESOME!


Im going to take a stab in the dark and say your failure is due to either the leak in the head gasket or the leak in the reed cage.

This children is why a manual is so important and a quality torque wrench.

But in all seriousness its not that bad pretty simple standard topend rebuild providing the lower end checks out.good luck bro
 
Yeah i said that myself when i pull of the reedvalve cage n seen that sumone had put red rtv on the gasket...also i notice that the stator coils are damage im guessing it happend when the keyway sheerd off it must of hit them so i have to ut a new stator too..
 
Is the crankshaft taper torn up real bad? If you're lucky you could buy the coils by themselves and put them on your stator plate and get it back together. If the tapered part of the crankshaft end is REALLY boogered, you might have to get a new crank.

Pics?
 
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as u can c on this pic under the pulsar coil screw u can see where it has a marking on where the key way dug a gash n right by my finger on the coil for the lights.
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no damage to crank shaft...thank god.... just need to find the corect key way..any suggestions on where to find it? cant find it on ebay...thank you......
 
Key is a "Woodruff" available at any small gas engine shop,
most automotive shops and some hardware stores.
Same as used on a lot of small gas engines. About $0.60 each.
Take your flywheel or the pieces and they will find you the size.

Looks minor to me. Meter the coils or check for broken wires.
Coat them with a bit of epoxy if they are bare or loose.
Clean up the taper like you were told and you'll be riding after supper!

Check the crank.
When straight up (TDC) check carefully for up and down play.
If you feel any, even a tiny bit, you will need a crank. No exceptions.

Piston looks reusable if you are not too fussy and you don't find any cracks
on the skirt, but a new one is always a good idea with a 2 stroke.
If you do think about a new piston, check the bore out first.
If there is any ring ridge you might want to bore or hone it over size.
This job can be as simple or as complicated as you want it to be!

Good luck and happy trails!
 
I don't see much damage under there. Everything looks like it would still work, if anything, your lights might not work properly, that front coil you're pointing to is the lighting coils so if that's the only thing with any damage you can try to run it like that and see if it works.

Make SURE you lap your flywheel on... you see the shiny spots beside the keyway hole? That's where the taper let loose and the flywheel was spinning on the crankshaft taper.