DIY 4 Degree Timing Advance (Pics)

call me an idiot but idk how to measure it by degrees.. i saw where a guy used a printed graph but im dumbfounded. this seems like an easy ass mod but im clueless to the "degree":-/

( btw i typed "yamaha blaster" in the search for youtube and ur quad was one of the 1st to pop up I:I)
 
call me an idiot but idk how to measure it by degrees.. i saw where a guy used a printed graph but im dumbfounded. this seems like an easy ass mod but im clueless to the "degree":-/

( btw i typed "yamaha blaster" in the search for youtube and ur quad was one of the 1st to pop up I:I)

:D I know.....I don't know why it has so many hits.....it's just a for sale ad....it looks and performs a little different now. :-/

Just print out a 4.5" 360 degree protractor(or 180 degrees). Mark an arbitrary point like "0 degrees" and then put a mark at "4 degrees" above the stock timing mark you made. For instance, the red line on YFS's post is the stock timing mark you make.
tadvance1.jpg

Now since you have a circle, put the protractor along the edge of the circle and just measure 4 degrees up and make a mark at 4 degrees up on the stator plate. This is now your new mark you want to hit for when you elongate the stator plate holes where the screws were. When you made the stock timing mark, you also make it on that little bit attached to the case. Just line up the 4 degree mark with the stock timing mark on the case and you are good to go. YFS said 3mm simply because 3mm is about 4 degrees. Using degrees is more exact but both work.

Don't get confused by the red lines in this pic. They aren't the timing marks...just an idicator of how far you widened the screw holes. Even if you widen them too far, it's no big deal since you will tighten the stator plate down anyways.
scribe2.jpg


As you can tell in this pic, YFS didn't actually take another pic after the advance, he just used MS Paint to illustrate what it should look like. :D The red mark on the stator plate is where you marked the stock timing. When you make the new 4 degree mark(like I said before), it will line up with the stock timing mark on the case that you made initially. He doesn't show that here as he made his marks on the screw holes instead, but I find it to be easier and more precise to go from where you made the stock timing marks.
tadvance2.jpg
 
I did the advance today, but didnt get a chance to ride it yet..Spent most of the day movin my rear fenders back...To many mods,to little time.. lol
 
Oh and good thing I decide to do this mod when I did,cause the nut holding the fly wheel on was just finger tight... yikes
 
Oh and good thing I decide to do this mod when I did,cause the nut holding the fly wheel on was just finger tight... yikes

Definitely yikes. Did you check the woodruff key in the crank? When the flywheels are loose, they tend to shear keys. I'm looking forward to hearing your ride report. Remember to check jetting. I:I
 
The flywheel was still very tight,it took a good bit of torque to bust it loose with the puller. I did check the key and everything looked good. Coulda been bad,sometimes I ride a long ways off by myself ,would have sucked if the flywheel would have sheered the key on one of those rides..
 
I've heard this from multiple people now, but I just don't buy it because nothing I have seen so far explains how it "advances" timing. Here is why I think so.

1: I don't know about the Polaris, but I went to BR9 plugs since I run at a fairly high brake mean engine pressure and wanted them to keep engine temps a little cooler from the added compression. The plugs themself are the exact same size as the BR8s. The only difference is the porcelain insulator is shorter since it is a colder plug, but the ground strap and overall length of the plug are the exact same. Where the spark is initiated is also the exact same location with both plugs.

2: Think about the purpose of advancing the timing. The idea is to initiate the spark event earlier BTDC so brake mean engine pressures will increase and since the spark is earlier the flame front from the ignited air-fuel mixture will make contact with the piston in fewer degrees ATDC.......which in turns leads to more of a driving force down upon the piston because of the more complete combustion(expansion of gases) of advancing the spark event and igniting the air/fuel mixture.......which directly turns into more power....since those gases have to go somewhere....down on to the piston ATDC. For example(random #s).....flame front hits piston at 12 degrees ATDC, advancing the timing 4 degrees, you can roughly make that 8 degrees ATDC and you have the benefit of more complete combustion of the air-fuel mixture.

This is why I don't buy milling the head/extending the plugs advances timing. Moving the plug or head(with the plug) closer to the piston on stock timing doesn't combust the air/fuel mixture any more(and maybe even less) than it does when stock. Why? Because it's more like retarding timing IN TERMS OF PERFORMANCE than advancing it. The plug will spark(while being closer to the piston) and the flame front will begin to propogate downward towards the piston. If you move the plug closer.....all you have done is shortened the time it takes for the flame front to hit the piston ATDC......you haven't elongated the time period for the air/fuel mixture to combust more completely any further which is the entire trademark of advancing the timing. Will it possibly cause the flame front to hit the piston in fewer degrees ATDC?....yes it's possible......but with even less combustion pressure, which makes it pointless. Really all you have done is increased the chance you are going to have pre-detonation.......which is why nobody else does it. People mill the head for the increased compression you gain from it, so there is some gain in doing that.

3: Extending the plugs or milling the head has NOTHING to do with advancing the timing. They are 100% mutually exclusive events and situations. By moving the plugs closer downwards in the cylinder, all you have changes is the time period it takes for the flame front to impact the piston.........without added combustion. If you want to test this out for yourself, just torque your plugs down a little less than you usually do and then try it torquing it down more than you usually do(without stripping the head obviously)............you won't see any difference in combustive efficiency.

I'm vigorously researching into this yet I have found no evidence so far of it not advancing the timing. I am awaiting emails from NGK, and I will be calling HighPerformancebyDesign tomorrow to figure out why they consider it a 2 degree advance. I have found plenty of websites that mention an advance and many that dont mention it at all. My father who use to hop engines up for nascar couldn't even tell me if it advances your timing or not, just that you take a chance of burning up the top of your piston.

Anyways I have also found plenty of good things about extended as well as bad things.
I will keep you informed of my research.
 
hey LRDblaster, ummm o_O i wouldnt b mad if u called me a fkn moron.. lmao. like i said idk about degree measurements. all i know is its more specific measurements from inches. but looking at the diagram it looks simple as 1-2-3 wish 1 one of guys was local to help! :( i really wanna do this mod but im not gonna order the tool til i know how to do this
 
I'm vigorously researching into this yet I have found no evidence so far of it not advancing the timing. I am awaiting emails from NGK, and I will be calling HighPerformancebyDesign tomorrow to figure out why they consider it a 2 degree advance. I have found plenty of websites that mention an advance and many that dont mention it at all. My father who use to hop engines up for nascar couldn't even tell me if it advances your timing or not, just that you take a chance of burning up the top of your piston.

Anyways I have also found plenty of good things about extended as well as bad things.
I will keep you informed of my research.

I:I Sounds good. Let us know what you hear.

I'm all ears to hearing what the proposed theory(in detail) is behind it, because I don't see it and it's pretty straightforward. :-/

I've heard a few people say it does now, but nobody so far has been able to explain why or how which is what makes me think it's more garage folklore or a missed assumption from pre detonation that they are thinking it's advancing the timing as well.
 
hey LRDblaster, ummm o_O i wouldnt b mad if u called me a fkn moron.. lmao. like i said idk about degree measurements. all i know is its more specific measurements from inches. but looking at the diagram it looks simple as 1-2-3 wish 1 one of guys was local to help! :( i really wanna do this mod but im not gonna order the tool til i know how to do this

360 degrees is 360 degrees regardless of size. For example, a circle is 360 degrees. Your stator plate is a circle. If you have a 360 protractor(or 180 degrees for that matter), you can figure out how far you need to go for a 4 degree change. For example, the stock timing is 16 degrees BTDC(before the piston is at the top of it's stroke). By advancing the timing and helping with more complete fuel burn, you advance it 4 degrees to 20 degrees BTDC. This is relative to the position of the crank since the crank and engine works in revolutions hence RPMs. 1 revolution=1 circle=360 degrees

Now when you have a protractor that is the same size as the stator plate(circle).....in this case ~4.5" 360 degree protractor that you can print off and put on the stator plate wheel as a guide.
tadvance2%20%281%29.jpg
 
Had a chance to ride the Blaster today..Short ride but first impressions are good,feels like a decent mid range bump to me ... Id say I was probably on the safe side and went more like +3,but can still tell a difference .
 
Had a chance to ride the Blaster today..Short ride but first impressions are good,feels like a decent mid range bump to me ... Id say I was probably on the safe side and went more like +3,but can still tell a difference .

Well hey, it's free. :D Probably a good 1.5hp or so for yourself.

I might play with it a little more. I need to go back in and mark everything so I can play with it better. I might try +6 AFTER I check the plugs and get it jetted better. Setting priorities first. I:I
 
NGK said:
Hello,

Putting a projected plug in won't advanced the timing, but you can sometimes notice better throttle response. One thing to remember is that projected plugs run 10-20 deg. C. hotter than a non-projected plug or 1/4 of a heat range.

BR,

Andrew Hauenstein
Technical Specialist
NGK Spark Plugs (USA), Inc

This is the response I received from NGK

The better throttle response is because a projected plug is suppose to burn the gasses more fully since it is down lower.
 
Yes u need to rejet with any engine mod...

LRD, I'm confused on how much I have to measure the degree. I guess 4 degrees is like what a quarter of an inch? Does it HAVE to be exact 4 degree or can I GUESS its like 4? Lol sorry for making an ass outta myself
 
do you hav 6to rejet for this mod
only thing on mine is the air box lid removed

hav a chance to get a fmf pipe for a yz 125, will that fit on my blaster ?

A YZ125 pipe won't fit a Blaster unless there is some miraculous fitment that I'm unaware of. On a stock engine I wouldn't go past 4 degrees in advancement. I'd probably even lean toward advancing it maybe a little less just to play it safe. Jetting depends. Some will, some won't. If you are already running slightly rich(like most everybody is), you might get by fine without it. The idea of running rich is when you have too much fuel in the cylinder and a large amount is left uncombusted and just wasted. It's an inefficient burn. Now when you advance the timing you allow more time for the air/fuel mixture to burn more completely within the cylinder. Now if your jetting is spot on, you will have to rejet. If it's slightly on the richer side, you might be alright. Only way you will know is by doing plug chops and seeing.